JSR

iTrader: (18)

This is my opinion also. If you're comparing the latest (within the last few years of release) buggies, I don't think the differences between them will win or lose you a race. It comes down to how well you set up your buggy and how good your driving is. One may be more agile, but may also be twitchier at the same time, another smoother but less agile. They all have some pros and cons, but if you're a good driver that can adapt to the behavior of the vehicle, I don't think the vehicle will decide the race for you. The same is true for a truggy or most any current generation vehicle.

Didn't know the Vorza has an adjustable battery tray...that's really nice!

HYDE16

Here's a question....
I've been checking out the D8 setup sheets which are said to work exactly the same for the new Vorza. What shock / differential oil weights do I really need to get started?

Do I really need shock oil weights of:
300
350
400
450
500

When I look up shock oil at Stormer Hobbies I find HPI silicone shock oil weights of 30, 40 and 50. I can't seem to find the inbetween oil weights of 35 and 45 (350 and 450).

For differential lube, do I really need weights of:
2000
3000
4000
5000

When I look up diff oil at Stormer Hobbies I find various silicone diff oil weights of 1000, 3000 and 5000. Where can I find 4000? Am I searching for the right item?

Can someone tell me the exact brand of oils to get and recommended weights? Links would be like gold to me.

Thanks all

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

Careful when comparing shock oil weights. 350/450 is not the same as 35/45. Check this out: Shock oil chart

Here's some more good info on how the different weights stack up: CTS vs. WT.

Hot Bodies makes 4000 diff oil, I got mine at A-main.

HYDE16

So when the spec sheets say shock oil weight 300 - 550 it's not the same as 30 - 55 weight?

When I search for oils on Tower, Stormer or AMain they are all one decimal off, they have to be the same.

On Tower and Stormer I found Team Associated shock oils with 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, and 55 weights. Would I want to get a bottle of two of each of these?

On Tower and Stormer I found Mugen or Racer's Edge diff oil with 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000 and 500 weights. Would I want to get a bottle of two of each of these?

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

the HB setup sheets are using the system Europe and much of the world uses to rate the fluids. The AE and Losi fluids are an America only rating system. The Losi fluids are fairly close to the other standards up to about 25-30wt (IE 25=250) but after that the differences gets progressively larger. But all the diff fluids use the same standard as the European shock fluid system. In that system, the fluid viscosity has a constant linear increase as the numbers get larger. That also means that a 500 diff fluid is exactly the same as 500 shock fluid. So, it is easier to use when you learn it.

One bottle will fill several diffs. Depending on how much you run, you don't need to change it that often. After the first hour or so of run time, you need to change the fluid because of break in. After that it should stay cleaner for longer. After a few changes it should stay much cleaner and you can go several hours of running on the same fluid, as long as it doesn't leak.

HYDE16

This forum is great, getting back into this hobby raised a lot of questions but you guys give me the exact answers I'm looking for...thank you.

So when I get the Vorza I'll drain the stock diff fluid in the F/C/R after the first hour of use then re-fill with fresh oil.

I found out that AMain has Hotbodies diff oil (1000 - 7000)
I'll buy the 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, and 5000 for a good range.

AMain also has Hotbodies shock oil (250 - 700).
I'll buy a 250, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500 and 550 for a good range.

I'm not planning on changing the oil out before each race event unless it is recommended by you all. How often do you change out the diff oil and shock oil? Every race depending on track conditions?

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

Some pro guys use different fluid weight from track to track, but they usually have several identical cars set up for different conditions. If you do not run at several tracks that vary widely in condition, a good overall setup that works well over many conditions is usually the way to go. And to be honest most guys are not pro level and minor changes and tweaks can not be felt, or improve much. Once you find a good setup, there is not much need to change it much, even if the track conditions change some. As long as the setup jumps and lands well, and doesn't get out of control in rough sections, you should be good to go. I don't change my fluid often, I should probably change it more. HPI manuals have a section on how often to change the fluids, every 2 or 3 hours running. You could get away with going a little longer. If you race big events, with lots of practice, you may end up changing it before each big weekend. You could always practice on old fluid and change it before the quals and mains.

HYDE16

Thank you, which oils would you recommend for the Vorza so I don't buy every weight and only use a few...

Diff oil (1000 - 7000)
Shock oil (250 - 700)

malik

iTrader: (19)

Diffs 3-7, shocks 350-700.

HYDE16

The other reason I've been asking about setups and oil weights is because I'm trying to create a setup chart for the Vorza based on the D8 setup sheets I've found on the net. See the attached preliminary chart.

Let me know what you think.
If anyone knows of other D8 setup sheets that I am missing please post links and I can update the chart.

Since I'm a newb at racing I thought I'd try to create something for everyone to use.

RCROD

I forgot to post earlier. I received a quick update direct from HPI on Nov.24th advising that the new Vorza should be rolling into the warehouse later this week & leaving shortly after to the shops. (It's already the 28th, so probably already at their warehouse & being sent to the hobby stores now ?) I've seen it listed at A Main hobbies & RC Planet for $619, Select RC for $599 (say they'll match any price). If currently a repeated customer at A Main hobbies, I believe their offering a better percent discount, than I've seen before.

HPI advised me "you'll absolutely love this thing". Nothing needs upgrading, even has a digital MG servo. I asked their tech if I need to be concerned with
changing pinion sizes when changing from NiMH to Lipo, or even 14.8 Lipo to 22.2v Lipo & the Flux motor & ESC (made by castle) has no problems overheating. Plus I think the motor looks so cool with those huge colling fins. Based on the world champ Hot Bodies & with all the cnc 7075 parts (usually only see cast 6065 aluminum on RTR's), it looks almost bulletproof to me. This thing looks like it Rocks & from what I can see, only the radio probably needs upgrading + I already have the Spektrum DX3s radio, so only problem for me is the initial Lipo battery & dual Lipo charger cost to add electric to my nitro collection. If I already had a couple of Lipo batteries & dual charger, it is a no-brainer, sold, where's my Vorza.....

I believe there will be a resurgence in 1/10 scale due to advancement in electric (Lipo & brushless), as 1/10 scale only takes 1 battery to run, compared to 2 batteries in 1/8 scale. Hopefully 2010 we will see lots of RC companies offering brushless 4WD 1/10 scale truggies. This is only my opinion, but hope I am correct (maybe see a brushless LOSI TEN-T ?)

cheers,
RC ROD

malik

iTrader: (19)

Does anyone know if the steering rack brace is aluminum on the vorza? Its different than the D8-D8T and Ve8. I am hoping it is I want an alum 1 for my Ve8.

marine6680

iTrader: (2)

You don't need two batteries. You can buy 4s soft case or if you must have hard case, there are a few 4s hard case packs as well. You only need the hard case ROAR packs for ROAR races. So unless you plan on running ROAR you don't need hard case, or dual packs.

HYDE16

That's exactly what I did, ROAR approved, single hard case 4S battery.
Maxamps has a section for the Vorza:
http://maxamps.com/products.php?cat=239

I picked up the Lipo 6500 60C 4S 14.8V ROAR Approved, Hard Case Battery Pack:

http://maxamps.com/proddetail.php?pr...SS-148&cat=239

HYDE16

I'm not sure if you guys can answer this for me but I was looking at upgrading the radio as well, I want to get the Spektrum DX3E DSM 3Ch Surface Radio for $100:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Surface-Radio

The Spektrum DX3E comes with an S200 servo but I want to leave the HPI SF-5 high-torque servo in and just swap out the receiver. If I take the HPI RF-6 2-channel receiver out and put the Spektrum SR300 DSM 3-channel receiver in, can I just connect the Blur ESC and HPI SF-5 high-torque servo and I'm good to go?