KForce

iTrader: (2)

i am at all the midwest proseries races and there will be a slew of us at the buggy nats

kyle

Local racer

I have driven the mugen line of cars for a very long time,I recently switch to the ocm and here are the diffrences that I see.The ocm has more acceleration then the mugen and also more on power corning ability,they both are very stable and jump about the same.

The mugen r car comes with all 5mm parts and the ocm has 4mm parts ocm uses eccentric bushings and the mugen dosent.

Overall I think both are very good cars but I have been able to go faster with my ocm it seems to carry more corner speed with good corner exit traction

KForce

iTrader: (2)

awesome thanks for the post. glad to see the opinion of someone who has driven the R. the ocm does like to be driven fast

KForce

iTrader: (2)

heres the setup i am currently running. any more of you ocm guys post yours away

Technical. Bumpy. Medium traction.

All I have been adjusting between tracks is spring preload.

Usually Run Bowties, m2 when dusty, m3 when a little slick. When track grooves in I will switch to Holeshot m2 or panther switch soft.

Diff Setup (front to rear) 5000-5000-2000

Brake Setup 40/60 I like more rear brake to make the rear pivot better in the corners.

Front Of Car

Front Toe 0 Blocks
Front Kickup 1 Up
Front Arm 0 (In shock tower)
Big Clip in rear of arm, thin in front against shock tower Shocks 2nd hole down on tower / inside on arm 1.5mm Pistons with 400 oil
2 degrees toe out
Bottom pillow ball no threads showing. Top adjusted to -1 degree camber.
Shock spacers vary just so the arms sit level.
Steering ackerman middle hole. On the steering knuckles 2nd hole.
3mm Sway bar preload

Rear Of Car

Rear Kickup 0.75 going up
Rear Toe 0.75
Shocks 2nd hole down on tower / outside on arms 1.4mm Pistons with 300 oil Shock spacers vary just so the arms sit slightly above level Camber links inside middle hole on shock tower. Middle hole on hubs.
-2 Degree Camber
Hubs outer hinge pin through the bottom hole of hub.
11mm Sway bar preload
Wing JConcepts HD



Kyle

devious17

iTrader: (1)

Coincidently, we were testing with various teflon and O ring on the shocks and found the best combination that would make the shock shaft move freely without leaking,we are also looking at other spring brands for their better spring rates. We 'll take some pictures to illustrate it.

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

what kind of down travel does the suspension have?

1/8 racer

The travell in the rear matches the mugen r car the front could use more travell,I have heard they have a new taller front shock tower and longer front shocks

KForce

iTrader: (2)

not sure about the shocks. there is a new front shock tower in the works that will give the front more droop though i do know that.

KForce

iTrader: (2)

here is a pic. the buggy is sitting on 2 parts cases fishing tackle box deals. the other 3 wheels are all touching the floor.

Brandon Powell

iTrader: (32)

Hey guys, how are you build the bottom side of your shocks ?

o ring , spacer , o ring , spacer ??

Also, we are drilling our pistons at 1.5 mm and 1.6 mm on our set ups. I noticed 1.4 in some posted.

KForce

iTrader: (2)

oring-oring-spacer......leave one spacer out it will free the shocks up tremendously.

and yes i run 1.5mm in the front with 400 and 1.4mm in the rear with 300. i run the 1.4mm in the rear because i like to run light oil.

kyle

Brandon Powell

iTrader: (32)

I am using the center hole on the upper mount ( front tower) , inner hole on the A-arm mount. Unscrew the shock end so that the total shock length is 108.3 mm total. Mount the upper of the shock first and then drop the eyelet in the lower a-arm and adjust droop til the eyelet matches the inner hole on the arm. This will give you maximum droop without stressing the piston in the shock. You should have more droop after doing this.

KForce

iTrader: (2)

and yes i unscrew my shock ends so that 4 threads are showing. then bump your droop screws just enough that it takes the stress off the shock

kyle

Brandon Powell

iTrader: (32)

Cool, We are doin the same with the spacer and the droop . Suspension is butter smooth. I will be running it tommorow at a point series race and look forward do seeing how it does.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

I drilled my pistons with a 1/16" (1.59mm) bit. I also run minus a spacer, as Kyle stated. AE 35F /30R. Brandon, thx for the install tip. I am using the same mounting points, but did mine opposite...bottom first. Ill try the top first when I wrench a little tomorrow. Can you explain the shock length though... 8.3mm? I may be missing something but that doesnt make sense to me. What points are you measuring? Or is that a typo? Maybe 83mm?