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Old 07-24-2005, 09:47 AM
  #10396  
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thanks Adrian i ran the car 2day but it was realy wet but the car was perfect. i am just finding it hard to get the ride hight down tho, i want 5.5mm ride hight but i cnt get past 6 because i have no more movment on the shock collers.what can i do? and as on the question i ask bout geting shock collers the same left to right, i still find it hard to do that,but i did what u said and it made it a little bit better. thanks bob
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Old 07-24-2005, 11:52 AM
  #10397  
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Default Dutch nationals round 4

Today was the 4th round of the Dutch nationals.

After changing the setup a litle thanks to Jon kers tip the car was even better.
In the first qualification round i drove my fastest time 20 rounds in 5:13.
and after al qualifications was that the 3rd place in the A-main.
there were only 3 drivers in the 20 laps. all between a second of eachother.

The first final was really bad for me because somebody crashed me twice so i could drive from 9. but after all i became 4th overall in this national.


I saw also that there is an set for the Mi2 wich includes 2 new shocktowers and 2 riserplates wich also raises the diffs and layshaft mount.
Do some of u know if ist available and what the part number is of it?


Arjen Potharst
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Old 07-24-2005, 01:34 PM
  #10398  
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bob - just install a small spacer (1 or 2 mm) between each spring and the shock collar. The spacers should have come with your car. Make sure your shocks are long enough for your desired ride height and droop.

I'm not too fond of the "turn collars to the limit, then adjust equal amount" method, especially when using Schumacher springs. They are not all equal length, so you may still have tweak in the chassis. The best method is to use tweak board, but if this is not available, then set your droop first (equal on both sides), then put the car on a flat surface (bumper over the edge) and use a knife or a screwdriver to lift the bumper from the centre. Both front wheels should get off the ground at the same time, if they don't adjust rear shock collars until perfect. Repeat it raising the rear end and adjusting front shocks.
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Old 07-24-2005, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
how often do you guys change the blades on your car to keep from eating up the spool?
It kind of depends on if you're running mod, 19t or stock, and the layout. I've run them in 19 turn for 5-6 runs, but in mod, 1-2 runs. I figure changing blades is cheaper and less of a pain than breaking a spool.
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:36 AM
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hey guys i blody broke a dog bone 2day and i didnt know have yous ever broken any of them. would you's sudjest me getting the aluminum ones
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:43 AM
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Hey I know your pain. I broke a dog bone today also. during my first qualifier. (second to date) unfortunatly I didn't have a spare again. I manage to borrow one from a tc3. it worked. I will be ordering the alum. bones very soon.
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:47 AM
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same here ill also be getting the metal ones but would a dog bone off a hpi pro3 fit on a mi2
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:09 AM
  #10403  
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hold them up to getter. if the pin line up and aren't to much diffence in lenght.. the tc3 one that I used were about 2mm longer. I might make a bit of a diffence. especially the blade don't fit. but I was able to finish my day of racing. All you can do it try right?
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Arjen
Today was the 4th round of the Dutch nationals.

After changing the setup a litle thanks to Jon kers tip the car was even better.
In the first qualification round i drove my fastest time 20 rounds in 5:13.
and after al qualifications was that the 3rd place in the A-main.
there were only 3 drivers in the 20 laps. all between a second of eachother.

The first final was really bad for me because somebody crashed me twice so i could drive from 9. but after all i became 4th overall in this national.


I saw also that there is an set for the Mi2 wich includes 2 new shocktowers and 2 riserplates wich also raises the diffs and layshaft mount.
Do some of u know if ist available and what the part number is of it?


Arjen Potharst
that riser modification is something old from over a year ago. It was something that was tested and it turned out that the current set up works best.
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Old 07-25-2005, 03:33 PM
  #10405  
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Default riser plates

Thanks for your reply.

Do you know for what kind of improvements it was used?
And what where de benefits and the negative things about this set?


Thanks for your help.


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Old 07-25-2005, 03:52 PM
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Teemu runs the raised diff parts and the accompanying lower towers under low grip conditions. Mainly low grip European carpet racing with rubber tires. This would also work on really low grip asphalt.

In the US our tracks have too much traction to run these parts.
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Old 07-25-2005, 11:54 PM
  #10407  
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I thought the raised transmission was purely to make the transmission more efficient, by allowing the dogbones to sit level instead of being angled down or is that the Teemu Towers?

Are the Teemu tower's (U2787) that have to be used with the Teemu Riser's the same as the low towers (U2714 and U2715) or are they slightly different (Say for low grip?)?? What about the BMI towers? Are they the same as the low towers, but with the body post mounts on them??

Also, with the 3700 Teemu Chassis, is there any problem using 3300's in it, they don't sit too low or anything?? As I still have a few 3300's left to use but imagine in not too long will have all 3700's?

Thanks
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Old 07-26-2005, 12:28 AM
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C'mon Iain, one question at a time
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Old 07-26-2005, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bender
C'mon Iain, one question at a time
Yeah you're right, I need to up my post count......
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:50 AM
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hi guys i use a 540j motor on my mi2 and the thread in the motor ws all gone is there any special screws i should use
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