Orion Revolution v2 motors???
12-12-2003, 07:55 AM
#16
V2 Care
I am still learning how to best treat these motors, but I found that skimming the comm even slightly after each run actually made the motor slower. I assume this is because the brushes are no longer seated properly until you run them in. I also found that running the motor in for 5 mins without load did not do to much to imrpove the performance. I think these things need load on them to run them in properly. In cleveland I ran an 8x2 with about 24 degrees timing and still had about 70 seconds of run time left on my peak batteries. If I remember correctly my rollout was about 18mm... Very good battery and very efficent motor. The first run was a little flat, but after the first run with the brushes seated the motor was very strong. Make sure when you assemble the brush hood that the brushes are not twisted in the tubes so that they don't maximize the contact with the comm.
With the sprint brushes I was running them about 6 runs before changing the brushes. I really did not notice any performance drop off on the 6th run...I guess old habbits die hard
The brushes do discolor very slightly but they don't appear to be burnt or degrade. I asked Oscar about this and he indicated that the change in color is actually a good thing and thats when it is faster.
Martin Crisp
With the sprint brushes I was running them about 6 runs before changing the brushes. I really did not notice any performance drop off on the 6th run...I guess old habbits die hard
The brushes do discolor very slightly but they don't appear to be burnt or degrade. I asked Oscar about this and he indicated that the change in color is actually a good thing and thats when it is faster.Martin Crisp
Last edited by mcrisp; 12-12-2003 at 08:01 AM.
12-12-2003, 08:29 AM
#17
The revolution motor seems to preform better with a longer break-in period, around 7-9 minutes. And the motor seems to get faster after you put a couple of runs in on the brushes. Also play with the timming, you said your running 24* of timming, going to a little less doesn't seem to have a big impact on overall performance and the motor will run cooler.
12-12-2003, 08:48 AM
#18
This past weekend I had the opportunity to Race with Joe Pillars from Orion. Talked alot about the new Mods. He said that a longer break in period is better and also said what was talked about above that really cutting the arm like we do with current mods does hurt performance. He also showed us some trick tools. They are brush contur tools in different sizes. The sizes represent the comm size. There would be many different bits in smaller increments so a person could brek in the brushes as the comm size gets smaller. The tool fits in the can and you just turn a few times with your hand. Breaks the brush in so the first run is race ready. Joe said these tools are going to be on the market soon. They used them at the Worlds.
Jeff
Jeff
12-12-2003, 08:58 AM
#19
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Martin,
I too noticed that the skimming of the comm created a loss in performance... But after a run or two on my Fantom dyno the re-break in was alot more effective then any running of the motor with or without a load on it.
And as for he discoloration of the brushes, Oscar assured me that there is actually an increase in performance because the brush is softening when the lubrication is being burned out. Spashett said the only time he started to notice any los in performance was when the brushes actually started to turn white because all the lubrication had been depleted...
I too noticed that the skimming of the comm created a loss in performance... But after a run or two on my Fantom dyno the re-break in was alot more effective then any running of the motor with or without a load on it.
And as for he discoloration of the brushes, Oscar assured me that there is actually an increase in performance because the brush is softening when the lubrication is being burned out. Spashett said the only time he started to notice any los in performance was when the brushes actually started to turn white because all the lubrication had been depleted...
12-12-2003, 04:48 PM
#20
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Ok here goes on the explination of the different motors. I would post where I got the info from but I am not sure on the site rules. Let me know if I can post links to other forums please.
Revolution Touring : Touring armature, enduro brushes (2 extra sets included in the box) black endbell.
The Touring armature is designed for more rpm.
Revolution Modified : Off-Road type armature. enduro brushes (also 2 more set of brushes included) blue endbell. armature giving more torque.
Hara edition : Touring special squeal armature with special comutator, sprint brushes.
Steenari edition : Off-Road special squeal armature, sprint brushes.
The enduro brushes are using the compound of the 10/30 we used in the Core but you can do 20 to 50 packs with one set of brush depending how you are driving, geared etc.
The sprint are our 2-3 compound but in the Revolution you can make 15-20 packs with them without re-doing your comutator.
The squeal armature has a different comutator, the 3 segment split are not parallel to the armature but have also an angle to pre-electrify the nex coils and have a super smooth comutation. On std type comutators when the brush is going from one segment to the other you always have a short period of time without current. With the angled comms you always of current going in the coils.
Revolution Touring : Touring armature, enduro brushes (2 extra sets included in the box) black endbell.
The Touring armature is designed for more rpm.
Revolution Modified : Off-Road type armature. enduro brushes (also 2 more set of brushes included) blue endbell. armature giving more torque.
Hara edition : Touring special squeal armature with special comutator, sprint brushes.
Steenari edition : Off-Road special squeal armature, sprint brushes.
The enduro brushes are using the compound of the 10/30 we used in the Core but you can do 20 to 50 packs with one set of brush depending how you are driving, geared etc.
The sprint are our 2-3 compound but in the Revolution you can make 15-20 packs with them without re-doing your comutator.
The squeal armature has a different comutator, the 3 segment split are not parallel to the armature but have also an angle to pre-electrify the nex coils and have a super smooth comutation. On std type comutators when the brush is going from one segment to the other you always have a short period of time without current. With the angled comms you always of current going in the coils.
Last edited by Brian Anthony; 02-12-2008 at 03:26 PM.
12-12-2003, 04:58 PM
#21
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Also:
The Modifed version, designed for Off-road, uses a thick web (where the wire is wound) armature. This heavier armature provides a power band more suitable for off road racing. Response is not lighting quick so you can actually feel the throttle response and use it to your advantage in slick or rough off road conditions. Because in off road you are rarely suing full thorttle, this drivability is very useful.
The Touring uses a thin web armature that maximizes response (low end) which is good in higher grip on road and carpet tracks.
The Modifed version, designed for Off-road, uses a thick web (where the wire is wound) armature. This heavier armature provides a power band more suitable for off road racing. Response is not lighting quick so you can actually feel the throttle response and use it to your advantage in slick or rough off road conditions. Because in off road you are rarely suing full thorttle, this drivability is very useful.
The Touring uses a thin web armature that maximizes response (low end) which is good in higher grip on road and carpet tracks.
12-13-2003, 06:02 PM
#24
Greg- Thanks for all of the info! Now if i can just find some! lol.
01-02-2004, 05:44 AM
#27
Tech Rookie
More information on the Revolution motors
motor type: modified
endbell colour: blue
brush type: long life
armature type: 5mm core for maximum torque with a wide power band
timing setting: 3
led colour: red
spring type: medium
motor type: touring
endbell colour: black
brush type: long life
armature type: 4mm euro-core for high rpm and good punch like needed for touring cars
timing setting: 3
led colour: red
spring type: medium
motor type: hara
endbell colour: purple
brush type: power
armature type: 3.5mm squel for maximum rpm and puch with a little less efficiency
timing setting: 5
led colour: red
spring type: medium
motor type: steenari
endbell colour: green
brush type: power
armature type: 4.5mm squel for good torque and high rpm with great efficiency
timing setting: 5
led colour: red
spring type: medium
Hope this helps!
Kind regards,
Emil
endbell colour: blue
brush type: long life
armature type: 5mm core for maximum torque with a wide power band
timing setting: 3
led colour: red
spring type: medium
motor type: touring
endbell colour: black
brush type: long life
armature type: 4mm euro-core for high rpm and good punch like needed for touring cars
timing setting: 3
led colour: red
spring type: medium
motor type: hara
endbell colour: purple
brush type: power
armature type: 3.5mm squel for maximum rpm and puch with a little less efficiency
timing setting: 5
led colour: red
spring type: medium
motor type: steenari
endbell colour: green
brush type: power
armature type: 4.5mm squel for good torque and high rpm with great efficiency
timing setting: 5
led colour: red
spring type: medium
Hope this helps!
Kind regards,
Emil
01-02-2004, 07:39 AM
#29
Originally posted by brians11
The touring editions come with extra brushes too? I just got my 9x2 touring and it came with the motor, stickers, and instruction sheet..... I feel cheated!
The touring editions come with extra brushes too? I just got my 9x2 touring and it came with the motor, stickers, and instruction sheet..... I feel cheated!
Thanks Emil for the explanation of the different versions.......
