Wheels for Idiots
11-12-2002, 06:18 PM
#31
Originally posted by Im2lazy
you mean that your wheel broke off when you did not even hit anything?
Irealize you hit something before, but it just kindof broke mid-corner?
you mean that your wheel broke off when you did not even hit anything?
Irealize you hit something before, but it just kindof broke mid-corner?
11-13-2002, 12:55 AM
#32
no info on baking? so i guess ill have to stick to boiling then. i want to save my tires because they only had a couple of runs in them when i hit a board and damaged my front wheel. i was using a "flangeless" locknut and it cracked near the hole. i shouldve used the regular locknuts with flanges for more contact area.
11-13-2002, 01:40 AM
#33
As popsracer said, I really don't think it is worth it to save the wheels. Also b/c I can't reuse them anyway
(yok's). For their strength and everything, and the lack of hassle to boil of the rubber, I just buy new ones every time, its easier and I always have plenty of practice tires. Also, the yokomo wheels are the cheapest -excluding OFNA's pieces of junk- so I see no reason to save wheels.
(yok's). For their strength and everything, and the lack of hassle to boil of the rubber, I just buy new ones every time, its easier and I always have plenty of practice tires. Also, the yokomo wheels are the cheapest -excluding OFNA's pieces of junk- so I see no reason to save wheels.
11-13-2002, 02:16 AM
#34
I agree…wheels are not worth saving. But to me tires and inserts are. I can’t throw away a perfectly good tire, just because the wheel/rim is broken. That’s why when I break a rim with a tire that’s still good for racing…I get the Dremel out and start cutting the rim out.
Last edited by toolmon; 11-13-2002 at 04:37 PM.
11-13-2002, 03:26 AM
#35
that reminds me of the one problem I have had with a Yokomo wheel before. The wheel didn't want to come off the axle
no matter how hard I pulled -or anyone else pulled for that matter- it was impossible to pry off no matter what. So what I had to do was to cut off the spokes and then dremel the center and killed my hex hub in the process. At least it was only a plastic hex. I needed new tires, so this wasn't really a problem, but if I was going to just do maintanence, this would have been more aggravating for ruining the whole set of tires. I reamed the rest of my wheels since then and have had no similar run-ins.
no matter how hard I pulled -or anyone else pulled for that matter- it was impossible to pry off no matter what. So what I had to do was to cut off the spokes and then dremel the center and killed my hex hub in the process. At least it was only a plastic hex. I needed new tires, so this wasn't really a problem, but if I was going to just do maintanence, this would have been more aggravating for ruining the whole set of tires. I reamed the rest of my wheels since then and have had no similar run-ins.
11-13-2002, 08:15 AM
#36
I race at a very unforgiving track and I have busted enough to realise Schumacher wheels are un-breakable!!!
Else I use PRoLine Warlock is tuff!!!
Proline Axisis quite bendy.... good for cold winters... but like Gumby they crack easily if hit too hard and they warp....
Also check that the drive shaft pin hasnt bent or dug into your plastic or ally wheel hexes grooves, if they have after a bit crash they will cause the wheel to spin funnybecause the hexes hasnt seated correctly!!! You may find sometimes are the Hex's that needs attention.
Carbon wheels are very strong but you can crack it if you hit too hard on concrete... but they are great to boil as the tyres just comes off!!! i have a set but I wont use it on all tracks that are hard on rims!!!
Else I use PRoLine Warlock is tuff!!!
Proline Axisis quite bendy.... good for cold winters... but like Gumby they crack easily if hit too hard and they warp....
Also check that the drive shaft pin hasnt bent or dug into your plastic or ally wheel hexes grooves, if they have after a bit crash they will cause the wheel to spin funnybecause the hexes hasnt seated correctly!!! You may find sometimes are the Hex's that needs attention.
Carbon wheels are very strong but you can crack it if you hit too hard on concrete... but they are great to boil as the tyres just comes off!!! i have a set but I wont use it on all tracks that are hard on rims!!!
Last edited by sonneteer; 11-13-2002 at 08:22 AM.
11-13-2002, 08:33 AM
#37
If you want to save tyres and dont give a damn about the wheels then soaking wheels in Acetone for 3-4 days will the wheels turn into a chewing gum and can be pulled and scraped off the tyres.... The industrial Acetone will dissolve super glue much better too (recommended by Loctite)... but I cant find any...
what I found is that they seem to not harm the tyre nor the inserts.....
Tested on:
Tamiya wheels
Sorex wheels
HPI wheels
Not Schumacher cos I havent broken one yet!!!
Tyres and Inserts not affected (IMO):
Take Off Tyre and Black Insert OK
Pits Moulded Insert OK
Just be careful cos Acetone is flammable and can in some case irratate skin, always read the label on the bottle for your own safety.... etc etc....
what I found is that they seem to not harm the tyre nor the inserts.....
Tested on:
Tamiya wheels
Sorex wheels
HPI wheels
Not Schumacher cos I havent broken one yet!!!
Tyres and Inserts not affected (IMO):
Take Off Tyre and Black Insert OK
Pits Moulded Insert OK
Just be careful cos Acetone is flammable and can in some case irratate skin, always read the label on the bottle for your own safety.... etc etc....
Last edited by sonneteer; 11-13-2002 at 08:41 AM.
11-13-2002, 10:44 AM
#38
Tech Elite
Too much soaking
I would watch your tires closely when they are in the Acetone. I've had Losi off-road tires shrink to half their size from leaving overnight in Acetone.
I only use the Acetone soak if for rims. Boiling works better for saving tires. Turn down to a low simmer and leave for a few hours (don't let the pan run dry). The tires will almost fall off.
Then you can soak the rims in the Acetone to remove the rest of the CA from the bead area.
I only use the Acetone soak if for rims. Boiling works better for saving tires. Turn down to a low simmer and leave for a few hours (don't let the pan run dry). The tires will almost fall off.
Then you can soak the rims in the Acetone to remove the rest of the CA from the bead area.
11-13-2002, 08:47 PM
#39
And for the nest installment of RC cooking:
Using extremely rare and un-useful volatile chemicals .
Acetone really doesn't harm the tire or the insert in any way? (with exception to Losi offroad tires). I may try it if I break a wheel ever... (I must be pretty lucky)
Using extremely rare and un-useful volatile chemicals
.Acetone really doesn't harm the tire or the insert in any way? (with exception to Losi offroad tires). I may try it if I break a wheel ever... (I must be pretty lucky)
11-14-2002, 07:10 PM
#40
Tech Elite
Acetone
I used to think that too. Sad thing was, I spun the drive pin on one of the rims and wanted to save the tires because they were brand new. Went to check on themand they looked funny, so I checked them against another set of tires and I swear they were almost 1/2 the normal size.
I've never had a problem with sedan tires or wheels, just Yokomo rims (Polystyrene) melting.
I've never had a problem with sedan tires or wheels, just Yokomo rims (Polystyrene) melting.
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