Jpm1

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=RCBuddha;12552582].

Are you saying you get a different reading when measuring the setup wheels vs. using a station?


Yes the difference is between the tires/wheels vs either the setup wheels or station, the station and setup wheels are the same.

Jpm1

iTrader: (8)

I have a little more time on this and found that hole centre of the setup station mounts are 4mm higher then the wheels, so when the car is sitting on the station and pushed down on the 30mm blocks it actually has the suspension slightly more compressed, so when you set it at say 1 degree camber and then put the wheels on and settle the car at 30mm ride height it has less camber then setup because it is standing higher.

When my mp9 is settled at ride height the shocks are 3.5 mm longer then when sitting on the station, to fix this and get an accurate reading I have added 4mm spacer to the rear 30mm block and 3mm spacer to the front 30mm block which gives the correct shock length when compared to the car in rtr configuration.

What I'm thinking is with the hudy system and based on a euro car/brand (xray 808) that on that car on euro tracks that they run 26mm ride height which would make the setup system and 30mm blocks work properly.....

Cheers Justin

fq06

iTrader: (12)

You should set ride height with your regular wheels & tires then put it on the station.

Jpm1

iTrader: (8)

Yes that's correct, but at 30mm ride height my mp9 rear shock length was 107mm, then when you put the car on the station and use the 30mm blocks the rear shock length is 103mm so the suspension is compressed down slightly more which gives a little more more static camber in that position.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

I believe that effect is called camber gain from the setup manual.

Jpm1

iTrader: (8)

Yes that's correct and with the setup I'm running with it has a lot of camber gain through out the suspension travel, so with mine 3-4 mm difference in ride height would certainly change static camber readings.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

The only thing I've used blocks for is for setting droop.

I set ride height in running form, wheels & tires I'm going to run and lipo obviously.

Then pull the wheels off and put the camber plates on. Push down, that's ride height regardless of how tall the plates put the axles.

Just how I've done it for years, onroad or offroad., same thing.

Mason

you guys are making this far more complicated than necessary.

after you get your ride height set.. drop the car. measure the camber. roll the car forward a quarter turn of the wheel. measure camber. continue until you've hit it a 4th time. average it out and race already. between the slop and the beatings you've put on it the last time just go with it. otherwise you're going to spend a ton of money on looking for the perfect rims, 8 hours gluing your tires, another 2 hours dicking with the camber only to have to do it all over again after 5 laps..

84 GT 5.0

iTrader: (26)

thats it some needs a 7 pole shaker rig like in nascar

Zerodefect

The ride height bounce/drop doesn't allways work. Especially with SCT 4x4's. Some trucks will stay hardly 1/2" off the ground after dropped. But look fine on the track.

Usually a high pack shock setup is to blame.

You have to use the 30mm blocks to get perfectly repeatable camber settings. You just have to account for the difference in camber at that height instead of at rife height.

Also Xray camber rod ends and pivot balls can be used on other types of cars. Those hold their settings very well.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Not much to it for me. Set ride height with the wheels I am going to run. Take them off.
Put the setup camber plates on, push down, push/pull back & forth ending with a pull back to set the plates and adjust camber. Do it a couple times to see that its consistent and bolt the wheels back on.
Done.

I just don't like setting camber with wheels of any sort on as that's another variance.