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Old 09-06-2007, 01:43 AM
  #1456  
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Default X312T Parts

For all you aussie CRF owners, come to barzrcpartz.com.au for engines pipes and spares for the Orion/Kyosho X312T. Full parts back up and express postal service to Australia and New Zealand.
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Old 09-06-2007, 04:59 PM
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Hi Rick,

I couldn't see glow plugs on your site. Do you have them?

Originally Posted by BartzRC
For all you aussie CRF owners, come to barzrcpartz.com.au for engines pipes and spares for the Orion/Kyosho X312T. Full parts back up and express postal service to Australia and New Zealand.
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Old 09-15-2007, 03:52 PM
  #1458  
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Hey Guys,

well i think i got this engine running to its best performance now to what i can achieve... i think i need more slip on the clutch just to take the bog near the bottom thou what i need to know is that this engine likes to be run HOT - at the moment it runs best at 290F - thats 145 Degrees

Might just richen it up in the top end as i did notice the plug a being a tab WHITE on the plug filerment!

How do your temps compare to mine?

i have had 4 litres of fuel done through this sucker CRF Josh Cyrul WC specs - and have the combo of the following:

CRF PIPE - Josh Cyrul WC
CRF - Plug No. 6
Team Magic G4S/G4+ - King of Bling
Team Magic - RED Shoe Clutch
Team Magic - BLACK CLUTCH Spring
All weights in
Cluctch gap - easy 0.5 - 0.8 might need more so it hits the meat section of the power band down low!

Overal its been hard to tune, but once i got the sweet spot yesterday she power slides hard in mid corner!

Ohhh yeah gearing is another thing!!!
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Old 09-16-2007, 01:45 AM
  #1459  
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ok, so how do i fix the carby plastic sleeve? the glue on the kyosho crf seems to crack and the plastic sleeve spins free, leting the carby move.

what should i use to stick a new sleve on permanently??
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:54 AM
  #1460  
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Ok guys, just wanted to post my runnings with this engine. Its been about 6 months that i've been racing with this engine. I think i've sorted out most the way this engine works out. though, sometimes reading and doing, is waaaay different. I only have one problem now to solve, I keep breaking plugs, only lasts me about 3 races. and it breaks after I finish a heat, like once I cross the finish line and my car sits while waiting for others to finish, the motor will cut out. Here is my setup I run.

Kyosho v-one RRR.

Crf 2006 one of the first versions with updated HSN holder.
HSN 2.5 turns out.
LSN 5.5 turns out.
CRF 7 plug.
20% Mugen Fuel (made by Byrons I think)
.1 head shim.
RD Logics TurboII Pipe and header

15/61 1st gear
21/55 2nd gear

Kyosho weights drilled out to 3.5 mm holes.
1 set screw added to each.
~.5 clutch gap
~.1 endplay.

JP super hard spring, tightended down almost all the way, but not so much that the spring binds when the clutch kicks in.
Gray clutch shoe.

the motor is a beast. I know my needle settings are WAY off factory but it runs like a champ. Puts me in the A-main at my local track. now, according to the HSN setting i have, it should be running lean, but when I check a new plug after about a tank of running, the plug reads perfectly. slightly wet on the base of the plug, and tannish. After about 3 or 4 more passes, the plug starts to warp. Maybe I need to run .2 shims instead of .1
Im not too concerned that my needles are so out of factory, cause thats what the motors runs best at. Anyone got ideas? oh, and im only hitting about 270 degrees F.
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:11 AM
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270F is probably a bit high and this will not be helping the plug. But I think the main problem is your head shims like you say. Run the .2mm shim on 20% (I run the .2 on 16%). The plug deforming is a result of too small head clearance.
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:26 AM
  #1462  
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Originally Posted by Quark
and it breaks after I finish a heat, like once I cross the finish line and my car sits while waiting for others to finish, the motor will cut out.
The plug probably allready breaks during the heat you've just finished, but this doesn't mean the engine will come to a halt.
Only if you want to start the engine, the plug's wire doesn't make electrical contact anymore, so it will not glow anymore......
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Old 09-17-2007, 09:45 PM
  #1463  
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Originally Posted by Z00M
270F is probably a bit high and this will not be helping the plug. But I think the main problem is your head shims like you say. Run the .2mm shim on 20% (I run the .2 on 16%). The plug deforming is a result of too small head clearance.
Yeah, I get the same feeling about the head clearance. I think what I'll do is run the factory needles again and retune from there. if i my plug still deforms, i'll run .2 shims.
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:16 AM
  #1464  
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Dear All,

Any body have used the CPD on a CRF??
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:39 AM
  #1465  
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Nano,

In Switzerland where I can get the conversion kit for the Orion 80000 to converto to the 2007 version??
Can you provide me the P/N??

Thanks

Timothy
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Old 09-26-2007, 05:29 AM
  #1466  
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what?does this thing really exist?
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:03 PM
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Nano,

Where in the US can i find the new CRF pressure chanber??
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:08 PM
  #1468  
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Originally Posted by Roniel_R
Nano,

Where in the US can i find the new CRF pressure chanber??
I think You should know where.
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:14 AM
  #1469  
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Originally Posted by TomB
ok, so how do i fix the carby plastic sleeve? the glue on the kyosho crf seems to crack and the plastic sleeve spins free, leting the carby move.

what should i use to stick a new sleve on permanently??
does the glue seal the carb, like if the glue is cracked would an air leak be created? my carby has never moved, but I believe there is an air leak, should i bother changing the plastic sleve or should i just seal it all up?
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Old 10-09-2007, 05:20 AM
  #1470  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
does the glue seal the carb, like if the glue is cracked would an air leak be created? my carby has never moved, but I believe there is an air leak, should i bother changing the plastic sleve or should i just seal it all up?

change the plastic sleeve. use jb weld to glue it to the carby body and seal up the carby body and the retainer nut with a temp safe rvt silicon.
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