LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

They'll probably be marked up quite a bit at a 'real' sporting goods store.. Wal-Mart/K-Mart/etc. should have them for around ten bucks.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

bargain stores here i come

tinman79

iTrader: (1)

I had my TC6 out to the track a few weeks ago, and it was awful. Ive posted here, and Ive gone over the set up sheets on AEs website. I havent race a touring car in 9 years so all of the tuning adjustments have me a bit overwhelmed.
Im running VTA on med. bite indoor asphalt.
Ill be running a 21.5 with a FDR of 4.20 per track rules.
Even if someone jost points out which set up might work best for me, that would be a big help too.

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

Pm me your email address.

SlideMasteR

I would really recommend the kit setup as a base starting point, I have recently build 6 x 6.1's for guys at my local track and 2 for myself to use in our national series here is SA, first off everyone has there own driving style and what they would like the car to do on the track, and with only a few small changes from kit setup I have got all of them well settled in the new cars

what is the problem you are having with the car ?

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Found this on the petitrc site



Thanks Arno

JustWill75

I love my TC6, I'm not the best driver at my tracK but I do believe the TC6 is very easy to drive and very durable so it makes me look better than I am and it allows me to finish more races. I'm currently in VTA but plan on getting a second one for 17.5 blinky.

ekim628

iTrader: (9)

Did you try the kit set-up. I think for most users the kit-setup is a good starting point. What tires are you using in t VTA class?

tinman79

iTrader: (1)

I ran the kit set up. The car was not stable down the straightaway....it would drift left and right. I had very little on power steering and way too much off power. As I would slow down to set up a turn the car would hook. Once I got back on power coming out of a turn the car would push real bad.
I had good traction on the track, the rear end would only break loose if I really hammered it(which is how I like it).

tinman79

iTrader: (1)

Im running the kit set up.
Im using the HPI tires the USVTA rules call for. (I got them a few months back when they were still around)

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Assuming everything is mechanically okay on the car, you didnt happen to get the caster block inserts backwards did you? Having caster the wrong way would do something like that. If you look at your car, the top of the c hub should be tilted towards the rear of the car if they are correct.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

hey guys just wanted to know what are some of the ares on the car i should check for and damage or wear? What would you suggest i replace sight unseen?

Thank you for the input!

ekim628

iTrader: (9)

I would check Arm Hinge Pins and diff/spool blades. Sometimes the new 6.1 castor blocks crack and you wouldnt know it until you checked. Everything else on the car is solid as a rock.

SlideMasteR

I would check those caster blocks if they in the right way first and that they not cracked, second I would check the rear diff and make sure there is no binding, third make sure there is no binding on the dog bones when the suspension compresses, there have been a few post here where the guys were not running the offset blocks and had some binding issues

then check and make sure your droop screws are even by lifting the car and seeing if both wheels lift at the same time, front and back

how much toe in are you running in the rear ? straight 0 on front/rear and 0 offset rear/rear is std

R Doyel

iTrader: (14)

Any Heat Exchangers, or Direct Fired Boilers? Manufactured on India, of course.