Trinity kill shot motors
#199
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
No. The endbell has to do with the front screw holes drilled incorrectly to fit in some cars. Yours has to do with the timing ring on the other end. The anodizing is a little thick and makes it tight to turn. Take the timing ring off and just lightly sand around the edge once or twice. Will be perfect afterwards.
#200
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Hi everyone. I got one question about the shimming of the end bell bearing for my kill shot RPM.
Recently I open the motor to replace the rotor with TEP1112 high torque one.
But I forgot how many shims I suppose to put back on. So I put 3 shims (close but not touch to the timing sensor unit).
but yesterday I open my friend's Fantom Apex V2 motor (It is supposed to be identical to Kill shot motor).
it got 4 pieces shims in between.
and I feel a bit slop with my rotor.
With my friend's apex 2 rotor, I feel almost no movement inside the stator.
can I still keep my motor untouched just like this or should I open it up and add one more shim?
Recently I open the motor to replace the rotor with TEP1112 high torque one.
But I forgot how many shims I suppose to put back on. So I put 3 shims (close but not touch to the timing sensor unit).
but yesterday I open my friend's Fantom Apex V2 motor (It is supposed to be identical to Kill shot motor).
it got 4 pieces shims in between.
and I feel a bit slop with my rotor.
With my friend's apex 2 rotor, I feel almost no movement inside the stator.
can I still keep my motor untouched just like this or should I open it up and add one more shim?
#201
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Hi everyone. I got one question about the shimming of the end bell bearing for my kill shot RPM.
Recently I open the motor to replace the rotor with TEP1112 high torque one.
But I forgot how many shims I suppose to put back on. So I put 3 shims (close but not touch to the timing sensor unit).
but yesterday I open my friend's Fantom Apex V2 motor (It is supposed to be identical to Kill shot motor).
it got 4 pieces shims in between.
and I feel a bit slop with my rotor.
With my friend's apex 2 rotor, I feel almost no movement inside the stator.
can I still keep my motor untouched just like this or should I open it up and add one more shim?
Recently I open the motor to replace the rotor with TEP1112 high torque one.
But I forgot how many shims I suppose to put back on. So I put 3 shims (close but not touch to the timing sensor unit).
but yesterday I open my friend's Fantom Apex V2 motor (It is supposed to be identical to Kill shot motor).
it got 4 pieces shims in between.
and I feel a bit slop with my rotor.
With my friend's apex 2 rotor, I feel almost no movement inside the stator.
can I still keep my motor untouched just like this or should I open it up and add one more shim?
#202
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
But for the original rotor....I can't remember because When I pulled it out, shims dropped off some ,then I can only found 3....
So I guessed it would be 3 shims on the timing sensor end.
last night my friend's Fantom motor showed up 4 shims that's why I am concern about.
#203
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Motors and rotors can vary on shimming. There are usually 3-4 shims on upper rotor shaft and large barrel spacer on lower pinion side of shaft on most all motors. At times from a tuner you may find 3 shims on top and 4th with barrel spacer on bottom. As long as rotor is not hitting sensor on top your ok. If motor is too tight with no free play and you cant remove a upper shim w/o sensor rubbing ,slightly sand barrel spacer to get rotor free spinning. You want a little slop not a lot..
#204
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Motors and rotors can vary on shimming. There are usually 3-4 shims on upper rotor shaft and large barrel spacer on lower pinion side of shaft on most all motors. At times from a tuner you may find 3 shims on top and 4th with barrel spacer on bottom. As long as rotor is not hitting sensor on top your ok. If motor is too tight with no free play and you cant remove a upper shim w/o sensor rubbing ,slightly sand barrel spacer to get rotor free spinning. You want a little slop not a lot..
so it is supposed to be OK. right?
May add a 4th one to the other end next time when doing cleaning.
Thanks for your answer.
#207
what do people think is the best killshot motor to run in a 12 scale?
#208
So which motor do you guys like better the killshot or the D3.5.
#209
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
High RPM 17.5 stator with HT 12.5mm Rotor
Anyone have a good setup in terms of Motor Timing and FDR with the Kill Shot High RPM 17.5 stator with HT 12.5mm Rotor Brushless Motor in the Blinky 17.5 class?
Track is indoor, 36x80 ozite carpet.
Good fan used. 6 minute races.
Thanks!
Ivan
Track is indoor, 36x80 ozite carpet.
Good fan used. 6 minute races.
Thanks!
Ivan
#210
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Not 100% sure but I would say torque version!
D3.5 but since we've moved on from that I am looking forward to the D4!
We have been running them at 58 or 59* of timing and you can start your gearing at 3.6 fdr and temp after a few minutes. I have worked down to 3.4ish fdr!
D3.5 but since we've moved on from that I am looking forward to the D4!
We have been running them at 58 or 59* of timing and you can start your gearing at 3.6 fdr and temp after a few minutes. I have worked down to 3.4ish fdr!