asc6000

iTrader: (15)

I'm old enough to disregard the mfgs' recommendations. For better or worse I grew up in my dads machine shop so I learned about tolerances at a young age. I allow for heat expansion but if I think there is too much slop... I'll shim. Yes the new bevel is thicker, the NT1 metal gears are thicker as well. So if you used the new bevel and metal gears it will be MUCH tighter than the old bevel and composite gears.
Seems like there is room for questions about shimming and it's need based upon each persons situation.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

i've never had a problem with them.

BentKa

I know what you mean......I've "only" been racing since -79....but that doesn't change the fact that there's absolutely no need to shim any different then the manual states.

It's the same for use in the NT-1 as well.

And the metal NT-1 gears are NOT any thicker.

Have personally buildt 5 XB4's this season since we started racing them in early January.

They have seen hard pack indoor clay, high grip astro, loose dirt and tracks with concrete/wooden sections........not a single issue running 5.5T-7.5T boosted !

We started running the NT-1 gears back in January with the V1.

I now have 5 sets of diffs (10) with 3 sets having the NT-1 metal gears and lightweight aluminum pins and they are all shimmed exactly the same way as the original plastic ones.
And they get cleaned out, inspected and added fresh oil prior to every race.

There's no difference in wear or resistance in any of them except for the metal gears being heavier and you can feel the added weight for short blips of the throttle.

Shim as stated in the manual, take care to have them properly filled and you will have zero issues

That's the beauty of Xray and their manufacturing tolerances compared to anything US made

Bent

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

I have the old bevel, the metal nt1 and the v2. Never shimmed any of them with a 6.5 tekin gen 2. Just always ran the slipper looser than the manufacturer recommendation and they still look brand new. Nothing chewed up at all. My preference is the V2 composites lighters and just as durable as the metals thus far.

I finally got my hands on the machined RW spurs for xb4 series from ebay. The xray spur has a lot of noise with my regular robinson pinions just irritates me like crazy lolz. Now waiting for the package to come across the pond .

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

You mean US owned china made :P. All the homegrown US based shops who do their machining inhouse are as close or better than xrays machining. Definately the aluminum used by xray is not as good (I broke two rear uprights on the xray 808e aluminum machined but never any plastics thats a 50$ part each!!).

Aftermarket machined cf/aluminum parts are some of the best here BCE chassis, team SR towers. If I followed xray recommendations for their xb4 front towers I would be 200$ poorer by now and left with shards of CF haha the 4mm team sr tower works like a charm!!

BentKa

WE used to run the SR towers.....now we run the Ralls Racing and DMS towers with the extra camber link holes and tower brace

It's one thing the Americans love and the Europeans hate......shimming !

I sold US cars for a living for a few years and I work on them from time to time now.
I also have an uncle that used to build, service and rebuild marine engines and the difference between a European made and US made motor is hard to miss......sorry

And this from a former die hard AE fan (who got tired of all the slop)

Bent

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

I personally would like to know if its worth buying some (please post after your results)

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Yes sir. I just wanted a 84T-85T spur since the 81 runs motor a bit hot and I run on smallish and largish tracks both so just playing with s/w turbo boost is prefered.

Anyhows love machined spurs and the stock one is so darn loud at full tilt that I will be happy with delrin .

@car engines, theres no doubt european/japanese companies have the edge. But the us still builds great high capacity diesels GE builds great aircraft engines.

Chris Rakus

iTrader: (17)

Hi guys, I'm new to the xb4 and I'm lost on what to do with my setup. I run on a small indoor dirt track with medium to low traction. I had a dex10 before the xb4 and ive tried making some of the changes similar to what I did to my rango but it didn't work. So if anyone has a complete setup that they think would work anything would help.
Thanks.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/tennesse...eedway-99.html
this is the thread to the track, and there are some pictures and videos of the track if you would like to see what the surface is.

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

no need for those kind of comments, I would feel the same if I lived next door to you. I tend to take the road less travelled.
[IMG][/IMG]
yea, Bhudda is going to take a whizz on that rock

protc3

iTrader: (13)

No doubt, xray quality is great. But do understand that there are very few companies out there who do there own in house manufacturing, US or anywhere outside of china. But there are some companies like mine who do it all in house. My quality along with the other select few is very high and tolerances are very tight. I am the 1st to say though, Xray quality is great. Just pointing out that not all US companies sold out to china.

john watkins

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone know of any companies making "stock" sized Spurs for the XB4?

jgonz

iTrader: (36)

Can someone please tell me if the stock fluids...10,000 & 5,000 Diff Fluids
and 450 CST and 350 CST with the 2 dot springs are a good set up for medium bite clay indoor facility?? I would like to use standard oils like Losi Wt. oils and Losi LF Springs...can someone please point me in the direction using such.

Thanks

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

I am really partial for the Martin Bayer euro champ setup. Tons of steering and handles amazingly. But on a low/med grip track you might want to play with the front diff fluid. Go with 7f/3r in the diff. It its too much to handle drop the front down to 5k.

In the shocks use losi 40f/32.5r losi oil 2 hole pistons. 1.6mmf and 1.7mmr (but strongly recommend buying the avid pistons. Way better tolerances and you will notice instantly on how your car lands)

BentKa

Nice choice of vehicle there

Maybe should have been a bit more specific.......American mainstream manufacturers .

There are a distinct difference in the way of thinking and constructing a lot of things in the US and Europe/Japan.
In the US engines are designed to be shimmed to spec and thereby never really "wear out" as over here it's manufactured to have as tight a clearance as possible and when wear occurs you swap the part.
Different thinking........mostly the same end result

But with R/C cars I recently prefer the latter

I have no griefs with Made In The US at all........in fact I died a little when my favorite bike brand for the last 20 years "sold out" to the far east.......do miss the Handmade in the US Cannondale's.

That's why I'll never sell my 2 bikes as I will never be able to buy another that's made and assembled in the US

Agree 100%......and cudos for not "selling out" just to make more money

I love the work of Exotek for one........very high quality aluminum and carbon fiber and excellent machining as well.

"Sponsored" them with A LOT of my own money ever since they came out with the buggy conversion for the Mini-T

Never tried any of your products but they do look to be of high quality

I have a friend in the dental business that supply replacement teeth and caps to Norwegian dentists and all "his work" is made in the far east.
Even with UPS shipping back and forth he gets his products way faster then through any manufacturer over here and at a fraction of the cost
Good for him........but sadly not for the Norwegian industry/workers

Now back on topic

Bent