jkas10

iTrader: (123)

DO NOT drill a hole in the top portion of the shock cap if you are going to run emulsion. You will lose all of your shock fluid.

(only a hole low on the side of the cap - thread area - for bleeding the excess fluid out. It will be sealed when the cap is tightened)

samuelsonmark71

iTrader: (22)

Or just use these: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-raci...114745/p447420

jkas10

iTrader: (123)

Dialed RC Hobbies:

http://dialedhobbies.com/accessories...x7-detail.html

or preoiled:

http://dialedhobbies.com/accessories...78-detail.html

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

Ummmm no. How would you lose the fluid when it has a screw in it? How on earth can you build an emulsion shock with removing 100% of the air?

jkas10

iTrader: (123)

I am referring to a hole without a screw in it. Like the Losi 2.0 bladder shock trick. You would drill a hole and leave it open. It was to allow the air behind the bladder to exit, and enter, through to keep from developing too much air pressure behind the bladder.

Like I said, only use a fluid bleeder hole with an emulsion shock.

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

So you're referring to 'vented' style build with foam compensators (as used on the Losi 2.0) sitting on top of the bladder and a exposed hole in the cap. The bladders remain intact though...

With the emulsion build, you need the bleeder screw as the shock cap will be fully screwed onto the shock body thereby closing the side hole on the cap, then you're bleeding the excess oil out of the 'bleeder screw' hole when the oil and air have emulsified with the pumping action. Once done, seal it up with the cap screw...

Have a look at the Losi 4.0 'emulsion' shock cap and Tekno's shock cap which do the different style shock types with detailed descriptions of each...

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...243034/p475873

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-r...kr8702/p584726

Damper Types

Versus

Tekno's 'Vented' specific shock cap:-
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-r...kr6003/p231813

Lutz emulsion shock build:-

+ YouTube Video

Donat

Hello,
Recently, when I was trying to get familiar with the theory behind trailing axles I came across this channel on YT: @doctormosfet.
I watched most of his setup videos and the guy seems to know what he's talking about (at least I haven't found any statements that were suspicious for me ).

Now, the problem is that with regard to trailing axles he's saying the exact opposite thing in comparison to Adam Drake. It got me thinking.

Have anyone dug deeper into this topic and could comment on this?

You can find both videos here:
@doctormosfet
@Adam

I would rather lean towards Adam's version. My opinion is that in doctormosfet's video the wrong conclusion comes at 3:53 when he traces out the arcs. I suppose that the fact that with non-trailing axle this arc is sharper it suggested that the turning radius of the whole car would be sharper as well. That's not the case in my opinion.

I couldn't sleep so I drew the geometry



Ok, that's it for the theory! Seems like Adam is right.
Now I'm curious if you agree + what are your personal feelings from testing both

hobbs

iTrader: (32)

what is the difference between front upright E2129 & E2105??
any visible mark or print on the upright to show which is which??

Chris Reilly

Inline and Trailing?

Adam Drake probably has a video for this. Youtube is your friend

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMLngPEVY-A

tom1974

The difference are ball-bearing...
E2129 ball bearing are both 8x16x5

Donat

Does anyone know a direct fit blank shock pistons for the MBX7 (not R)?
Seems like Mugen is only making those for the new 16mm shocks...

Preferably, I'm looking for ones with predrilled marks.

rubiconon37's

iTrader: (3)

I'm hoping someone can help me. I'm changing over to the non trailing front uprights on my mbx7r. The inner bearing on the universal is too small on the outside diameter. I'm trying to install the stock 8x16 into the E2105-B upright and it's too small. Any help would be appreciated.

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

According to this, you need the other upright or a smaller bearing.

rubiconon37's

iTrader: (3)

The stock bearing get is a 8x16. When you put that bearing into the E2105-B upright it appears to be too small. I'm wondering if anyone else has run into this problem before? Or is it possible mine weren't machined correctly.

tom1974

Yes man..... ball bearing is 8x16x5.....