3Racing Sakura Zero S
#3226
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
That's a good place to start. Roughly how large is the track you're driving on? What I've recommended is for a relatively small track, with a technical layout. Maybe start there, and check your running temperatures. If it's coming off cool, gear down a bit for some more top end if you have a few large straights
#3227
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I'm at the Victoria wcics right now. Brought my XI to race and the Zero S as a backup. I collided with Brent W and busted my steering bellcrank linkage, which is all plastic.
Switched to my Zero to finish qualifying today. IMO, the box stock zero is more durable than the box stock xi.
Slightly faster times with the stock XI. But the durability of the Zero S (aka: Turning TG10) is a real benefit.
Switched to my Zero to finish qualifying today. IMO, the box stock zero is more durable than the box stock xi.
Slightly faster times with the stock XI. But the durability of the Zero S (aka: Turning TG10) is a real benefit.
Are you coming to the kamloops WCICS?
have fun in vic
#3229
Tech Rookie
Can someone explain why shorter suspension arms produce more grip on this car? Our club expert says longer arms should give more grip. I have just fitted the shorter ones on and will try it tomorrow. Hopefully it will fix the rear grip.
#3230
Shorter arms might make it more twitchy and aggressive. Not sure if that means "grippy". But typically a wider track means a bit less reaction, UT a. It more planted-ness.
#3231
#3233
Tech Rookie
Ok thanks guys. I had a go with it and the rear does seem a lot better. However the servo has failed now :/ so that might have been affecting it too if it was on its way out.
#3234
That's a good place to start. Roughly how large is the track you're driving on? What I've recommended is for a relatively small track, with a technical layout. Maybe start there, and check your running temperatures. If it's coming off cool, gear down a bit for some more top end if you have a few large straights
#3236
Tech Rookie
can someone recommend me the diff oil and shock oil thickness?
going to run in parkinglot racing, no high grip.
going to run in parkinglot racing, no high grip.
#3238
Tech Rookie
Are you sure you use 500 CST in the rear as diff oil? that loose?
I thought diff oil should all in k cst. I can see you put pretty thick 500k cst at front.
And 32 and 30 are the shock oil in WT right? which is 300-350 cst if I am correct.
I am confuse by people talk about oil, there is two set of unit WT/CST, and people, and the conversion is not so clear. I have this table, is this correct reading?
10wt/100cst
15wt/150cst
20wt/200cst
25wt/275cst
30wt/350cst
35wt/425cst
40wt/500cst
45wt/575cst
50wt/650cst
55wt/725cst
60wt/800cst
70wt/900cst
80wt/1000cst
#3240
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
thanks for quick response.
Are you sure you use 500 CST in the rear as diff oil? that loose?
I thought diff oil should all in k cst. I can see you put pretty thick 500k cst at front.
And 32 and 30 are the shock oil in WT right? which is 300-350 cst if I am correct.
I am confuse by people talk about oil, there is two set of unit WT/CST, and people, and the conversion is not so clear. I have this table, is this correct reading?
10wt/100cst
15wt/150cst
20wt/200cst
25wt/275cst
30wt/350cst
35wt/425cst
40wt/500cst
45wt/575cst
50wt/650cst
55wt/725cst
60wt/800cst
70wt/900cst
80wt/1000cst
Are you sure you use 500 CST in the rear as diff oil? that loose?
I thought diff oil should all in k cst. I can see you put pretty thick 500k cst at front.
And 32 and 30 are the shock oil in WT right? which is 300-350 cst if I am correct.
I am confuse by people talk about oil, there is two set of unit WT/CST, and people, and the conversion is not so clear. I have this table, is this correct reading?
10wt/100cst
15wt/150cst
20wt/200cst
25wt/275cst
30wt/350cst
35wt/425cst
40wt/500cst
45wt/575cst
50wt/650cst
55wt/725cst
60wt/800cst
70wt/900cst
80wt/1000cst
I have used the Sakura S Zero on a flat low grip bitumen surface, which tends to fluxuate between grip levels depending on the weather/how often it's cleaned. Here is what I was using in regards to silicone oil in the shock absorbers and front and rear differentials.
As for the shockers, depending on grip levels I was running 30wt-45wt. During summer, anything around 40wt works really well on this car on both the front and rear shockers, with realtively hard spring on the front and soft on the rear. I like to use the Associated oil, as the quality is great for the price. Keep in mind I was using the stock pistons, which I believe are 3 holes all round. As for conversions from CST to WT - I like to use this website: http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php
For your front and rear differentials, I like to run a fully locked diff in the front (Spool) and Associated 1-2k in the rear. Depending on grip levels you may need to go either thicker or thinner in the rear. If you decide not to use a locked diff, for low grip asphalt, I ran anything between 10k and 1 million. This worked really well. If club rules are restricting you from using a locked diff - such as ours at the time - we found naughty ways to lock the front up like a spool. I tried both Putty in the front, and solidified playdough. Both worked well.
Best of luck