Updating a Vintage RC10 ( Dogbone Issues)
10-19-2007, 12:01 PM
#1
Updating a Vintage RC10 ( Dogbone Issues)
I am currently working on an old gold pan RC10 update, by update I mean newer parts from a B4 but still keeping the classic look, this will be a casual driving car not to bash or race just run it around basically im bored lol, anyways i pretty much have everything worked out but i have come across a problem with the dog bones, the original ones are way short as are the stock B4 ones and the truck ones are like 1/2 cm to long is there anyway to get custom ones made? or I could use maybe some ideas I will post some pics as soon as i get a chance. so maybe you can see it. anyways thans in advance for your help.
10-19-2007, 01:02 PM
#2
Tech Addict
If you can find a CVD bone from another model that fits your requirements, MIP will custom make you a kit. In other words they will put a B4 drive axle with any of their currently existing bones and ship it to you.
10-19-2007, 02:24 PM
#3
Custom Length CVDs
It may not work to simply get an existing set of CVD bones with a different, existing set of CVD axles. If not, you can extend or shorten CVD bones yourself. Here is a link to a pic of a CVD bone I extended:
http://s92437987.onlinehome.us/ebayp...tended-cvd.jpg
It is actually better to start with too long a bone and shorten it rather than too short a bone and extend it (but I only had short ones, so I extended mine).
The technique is to cut the bone in half and (assuming you are using too long ones) and remove enough from the middle to make it just the right length. You join it back together by soldering a brass tubing sleeve over the two halves after you have cleaned off the bluing and tinned them. I used K&S brass tubing to make the sleeves but there are other alternatives.
Lest anyone say this can't possibly work, take a look at the very end of the bone where the stub axle mates in and see how the crosspin hole is enlongated. That is the wear from a year's worth of running these extended bones on a B3 modified to run 8-cell packs. The pin has worn the bone an awful lot, but the solder joint on the sleve has held up with no complaints or failures.
http://s92437987.onlinehome.us/ebayp...tended-cvd.jpg
It is actually better to start with too long a bone and shorten it rather than too short a bone and extend it (but I only had short ones, so I extended mine).
The technique is to cut the bone in half and (assuming you are using too long ones) and remove enough from the middle to make it just the right length. You join it back together by soldering a brass tubing sleeve over the two halves after you have cleaned off the bluing and tinned them. I used K&S brass tubing to make the sleeves but there are other alternatives.
Lest anyone say this can't possibly work, take a look at the very end of the bone where the stub axle mates in and see how the crosspin hole is enlongated. That is the wear from a year's worth of running these extended bones on a B3 modified to run 8-cell packs. The pin has worn the bone an awful lot, but the solder joint on the sleve has held up with no complaints or failures.
10-19-2007, 03:33 PM
#4
the way i did it , i used b4 3/16 axcels , 3/16 bearings , i had to use like 8 axcel shims on the inside of the carrier which help with the length of dog bones , ray
10-19-2007, 03:34 PM
#5
the other reason i did it this way was to run my b4 tires , ray
10-19-2007, 03:51 PM
#6
ray you could have used a B2/B3 axle and MIP RC10 bones. This is what I am going to use to run B3 wheels (to keep my rear track width) on my RC10 Runner. I want to use todays tires on the old school car, 2.2 wheels and the old 1/4 axle are impossible to find.
10-19-2007, 03:57 PM
#7
yup , i just used stuff outa the parts box , havent had b2 b3 parts in along time , ray
10-19-2007, 04:47 PM
#8
OK lotta great Ideas, thanks alot but I really cant use the norm as I have changed out the rear A arms for RC10 B4 arms and it gives me a wierd length, between 77-80mm but ive been looking on Towerhobbies and noticed that they have tons aswell heres some pics to to give ya an idea. This project started out as a change from 1/4" to 3/16" to fit the more common wheels then i noticed the old bearing were flanged and I didnt have flanged so i threw on a set of B4 rear hubs and then i said well the arms would go nicley etc.. and well im here now lol
Keep the Ideas comming just incase i dont find the right size at tower, thanks again.
SW
Keep the Ideas comming just incase i dont find the right size at tower, thanks again.
SW
Last edited by Speedyweasel; 10-19-2007 at 05:00 PM.
10-19-2007, 07:08 PM
#9
Tech Addict
I'd say just get the T4 bones and cut them down. Do the tube option as posted above.
10-20-2007, 06:54 PM
#10
Yeah think I will go with the cut down and tube, thanks everyone for your great tips and advice it will come in handy.
SW
SW
.
!