help with discharge trays
#16
Tech Rookie
I was looking at the smart try also, but I still don't know if we need another discharger along with the tray. I actually would like someone to run me through the process someone goes through with the batteries at the point you pull the car off the track from a 5 minute race and you put the car back in.
NOTE: I know you would use different packs for different mains, but I just want to know how long to wait before discharging, charging, and running the pack again. And if you need to use bulb discharger along with tray or is there one device that does it all.
Tzsu
EDIT: Smart tray only discharges at 2.7A so my understanding is that the batteries have to be mostly discharged before you would use that tray. IE using a bulb discharger beforehand.
NOTE: I know you would use different packs for different mains, but I just want to know how long to wait before discharging, charging, and running the pack again. And if you need to use bulb discharger along with tray or is there one device that does it all.
Tzsu
EDIT: Smart tray only discharges at 2.7A so my understanding is that the batteries have to be mostly discharged before you would use that tray. IE using a bulb discharger beforehand.
#17
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Ok, now I'm confused but I think I got part of it. You want to discharge a pack with a discharger then use a tray to equalize - such as the Integy Zero. But the problem with a bulb discharger it has no cut-off and you may do more harm to your pack if you leave it on too long. Unless, of course, your bulb discharger has a cut-off switch.
I saw the Integy Zero on eBay and wrote the guy selling it and he tells me that the tray discharges but he's not sure if it equalizes. This sounds like wrong information based on what you guys have said here.
Based on Tzsu's information, the Integy Zero can't take packs down all the way to 0v but it can if it is almost empty. What happens if I take a pack that has been used part of the way and throw it on the tray? Does it equalize and keep the remaining charge? Will it hurt the pack to throw it on the equalizer and it hasn't been discharged properly?
Thanks for all the help. I think I'm starting to understand this whole process.
The Novak Smart Tray seems to be the answer to the discharge/equalize problem. Next step, finding one use and cheap...
I saw the Integy Zero on eBay and wrote the guy selling it and he tells me that the tray discharges but he's not sure if it equalizes. This sounds like wrong information based on what you guys have said here.
Based on Tzsu's information, the Integy Zero can't take packs down all the way to 0v but it can if it is almost empty. What happens if I take a pack that has been used part of the way and throw it on the tray? Does it equalize and keep the remaining charge? Will it hurt the pack to throw it on the equalizer and it hasn't been discharged properly?
Thanks for all the help. I think I'm starting to understand this whole process.
The Novak Smart Tray seems to be the answer to the discharge/equalize problem. Next step, finding one use and cheap...
#18
Tech Rookie
Equalizing is discharging each cell evenly. If you discharge a pack together some of the cells might be discharged but other cells might still have a charge in them. So you have to discharge the individual cells separately to get the pack equalized.
My comment about the 2.6a is about the Novak smart tray. That tray discharges at 2.6a so you would still need a 30a discharger. It also only discharges to .9v instead of deadshorting them like some people recommend. However for everyone that recommends there is someone that will tell you deadshorting does more harm.
I think getting the INDI Reactor 30 to discharge the whole pack at one time (which has a cuttoff on it) and then get a tray that equilizes the batteries. Now you only have to decide if you want to deadshort it or not. I think getting the Reactor 30 with the INDI Zero Equalizer is probably one of the better choices. You should be able to get those for $70 all together.
Tzsu
My comment about the 2.6a is about the Novak smart tray. That tray discharges at 2.6a so you would still need a 30a discharger. It also only discharges to .9v instead of deadshorting them like some people recommend. However for everyone that recommends there is someone that will tell you deadshorting does more harm.
I think getting the INDI Reactor 30 to discharge the whole pack at one time (which has a cuttoff on it) and then get a tray that equilizes the batteries. Now you only have to decide if you want to deadshort it or not. I think getting the Reactor 30 with the INDI Zero Equalizer is probably one of the better choices. You should be able to get those for $70 all together.
Tzsu
#19
Originally Posted by Tzsu
Equalizing is discharging each cell evenly. If you discharge a pack together some of the cells might be discharged but other cells might still have a charge in them. So you have to discharge the individual cells separately to get the pack equalized.
My comment about the 2.6a is about the Novak smart tray. That tray discharges at 2.6a so you would still need a 30a discharger. It also only discharges to .9v instead of deadshorting them like some people recommend. However for everyone that recommends there is someone that will tell you deadshorting does more harm.
I think getting the INDI Reactor 30 to discharge the whole pack at one time (which has a cuttoff on it) and then get a tray that equilizes the batteries. Now you only have to decide if you want to deadshort it or not. I think getting the Reactor 30 with the INDI Zero Equalizer is probably one of the better choices. You should be able to get those for $70 all together.
Tzsu
My comment about the 2.6a is about the Novak smart tray. That tray discharges at 2.6a so you would still need a 30a discharger. It also only discharges to .9v instead of deadshorting them like some people recommend. However for everyone that recommends there is someone that will tell you deadshorting does more harm.
I think getting the INDI Reactor 30 to discharge the whole pack at one time (which has a cuttoff on it) and then get a tray that equilizes the batteries. Now you only have to decide if you want to deadshort it or not. I think getting the Reactor 30 with the INDI Zero Equalizer is probably one of the better choices. You should be able to get those for $70 all together.
Tzsu
FYI, the smart tray has adjustable cutoff including dead short
#21
Tech Fanatic
GUYS! You're making this way to hard! the Integy zero thirty is all you need,it will discharge AND equalize your batteries for you,no bulbs or any other devices needed,if you are running anything other than mod, deadshort! it's just that simple.
#22
OK..... The Integy Zero-6S discharger tray, it says it discharges and equalizes the cells. But.. Do I need to hook it up to anything? Or do I just put on the batteries and let things happen? I have PromatchRacing batteries and its 35a, is it ok if i discharge at 30a?
#23
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
OK..... The Integy Zero-6S discharger tray, it says it discharges and equalizes the cells. But.. Do I need to hook it up to anything? Or do I just put on the batteries and let things happen? I have PromatchRacing batteries and its 35a, is it ok if i discharge at 30a?
I use the Integy Zero 30 for quick discharging then three days before my race i put my packs on the Zero 6 and leave them on there until they go on the charger race day...Yes thsi will reduce runtime but I race 19T and Stock so really no worry about runtime...I usally have 1000mah left after a 19T race so I am not worried.
Just what I do...
But it works nice...
Take Care & GOD Bless,
-Shookie <><
#24
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
There are 6 individual resistors under the tray that are kinda hidden away for astetics....Yes it is OK to use these with promatch or smc...Or any brand for that matter...
I use the Integy Zero 30 for quick discharging then three days before my race i put my packs on the Zero 6 and leave them on there until they go on the charger race day...Yes thsi will reduce runtime but I race 19T and Stock so really no worry about runtime...I usally have 1000mah left after a 19T race so I am not worried.
Just what I do...
But it works nice...
Take Care & GOD Bless,
-Shookie <><
I use the Integy Zero 30 for quick discharging then three days before my race i put my packs on the Zero 6 and leave them on there until they go on the charger race day...Yes thsi will reduce runtime but I race 19T and Stock so really no worry about runtime...I usally have 1000mah left after a 19T race so I am not worried.
Just what I do...
But it works nice...
Take Care & GOD Bless,
-Shookie <><
#25
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey Shook, you don't HAVE to leave them on the tray for 3 days. Leaving them on the tray for 12-15 hrs before you race is sufficient enough. I haven't done any 'proven' results but I don't think it's too healthy for the cells to suppress 'em at zero volts for that long. But like you've said, you lose a bit of runtime and you're okay with that so it's ALL GOOD -JB
Yea but to hold them @ zero is kind of a dead short without the possibility of cell reversal...
-Shookie <><
#26
omg... that Integy Zero-6S charger, I have to put 1 batterie on the tray for 10-15hours for it to discharge/equalize? GEESE! How Do i know when its done?
#27
Originally Posted by Tzsu
Equalizing is discharging each cell evenly. If you discharge a pack together some of the cells might be discharged but other cells might still have a charge in them. So you have to discharge the individual cells separately to get the pack equalized.
My comment about the 2.6a is about the Novak smart tray. That tray discharges at 2.6a so you would still need a 30a discharger. It also only discharges to .9v instead of deadshorting them like some people recommend. However for everyone that recommends there is someone that will tell you deadshorting does more harm.
I think getting the INDI Reactor 30 to discharge the whole pack at one time (which has a cuttoff on it) and then get a tray that equilizes the batteries. Now you only have to decide if you want to deadshort it or not. I think getting the Reactor 30 with the INDI Zero Equalizer is probably one of the better choices. You should be able to get those for $70 all together.
Tzsu
My comment about the 2.6a is about the Novak smart tray. That tray discharges at 2.6a so you would still need a 30a discharger. It also only discharges to .9v instead of deadshorting them like some people recommend. However for everyone that recommends there is someone that will tell you deadshorting does more harm.
I think getting the INDI Reactor 30 to discharge the whole pack at one time (which has a cuttoff on it) and then get a tray that equilizes the batteries. Now you only have to decide if you want to deadshort it or not. I think getting the Reactor 30 with the INDI Zero Equalizer is probably one of the better choices. You should be able to get those for $70 all together.
Tzsu
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/ba...tery_care.html
#28
I equalize to zero volts on each cell. I like to keep my cells for around 12 months. So far my 3700's I have had for nearly 4 months and I have around 10 cycles on them. They have only lost 3 seconds of run time and they have gained .05v for the pack (4 cell) on average voltage.
If you don't equalise and hold it there for a good few hours then you are not getting all the run time you can from the pack.
Yes I know the arguments that some of you (me included) only run stock or 19T. This does not matter. The more run time you have the further back on the discharge curve you are and the higher voltage you have at the end of the race.
Chris.
If you don't equalise and hold it there for a good few hours then you are not getting all the run time you can from the pack.
Yes I know the arguments that some of you (me included) only run stock or 19T. This does not matter. The more run time you have the further back on the discharge curve you are and the higher voltage you have at the end of the race.
Chris.
#29
Tech Fanatic
Crimson Eagle,
Finally! someone see's the truth about runtime.it IS important! just as you said the further back on the discharge curve you are at the end of the race the better!
Vduy, That's one of the reasons to use the zero thirty tray,it only takes about 5 mins to get to zero after you have run,I just put my pack in it after the race and leave it there until after the next race then I put the dead short on and take the pack out of the tray,and replace it with the next race pack ETC ETC.Much better than waiting hours on the 6s tray.
Finally! someone see's the truth about runtime.it IS important! just as you said the further back on the discharge curve you are at the end of the race the better!
Vduy, That's one of the reasons to use the zero thirty tray,it only takes about 5 mins to get to zero after you have run,I just put my pack in it after the race and leave it there until after the next race then I put the dead short on and take the pack out of the tray,and replace it with the next race pack ETC ETC.Much better than waiting hours on the 6s tray.
#30
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
About that 10-15 hrs, believe it or not you're doing the same thing when you tray your packs until the next race day. And the Zero Thirty does not take your packs to 0volts in 5 minutes after you race, Sorry. If you don't believe me, run a voltmeter across the cells WHEN THEY ARE STILL ON THE TRAY after 5min. and let us know what you get No tray on the planet takes your cells to 0volts in 5min. after they've been raced.