mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Hope someone can help:-
I want to see what performance advantage I can get out of my Novak brushless system and want to try varying the timing.
How far is it safe to Advance/ Retard the timing ring? A couple of degrees? More? What effect would this have (i'm assuming more timing higher = RPM to a point when heat becomes a factor???)
I run inside on a large flowing carpet track with my T2 008 geared at 5.7 FDR.
Should I need to change this?
Thanks for any advice you can give

Paul

edseb

You don't want to go more than 8 degrees and never retarded. Since you mentioned carpet track but listed fdr I'm assuming you are running rubber tire and with thee stock sintered Novak rotor you can gear as high as 5.0, but that's with the timing left where it is. If you advance timing you probably want to drop a couple teeth from there and temp the motor after 5 minutes- shouldn't be over 160f, but optimumly go by feel or lap times.

RussB

i've gone as low as 4.7 with a novak 10.5 but don't recommend it.

i swear it felt as powerful as a reedy ti 10 turn with gp3300's did a few years ago

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys,
Is there a "sweet spot" for this motor? IE does it prefer a little timing rather than an increase in pinion size?

Steve Weiss

Everyone is going to be a little different in their preference for how their motors run and every motor is a little different as to what it "likes" as well.

Generally I recommend either leaving the timing where it is at and gearing tallish.

Or

Turning the timing up slightly (not all the way up) and then gearing a bit shorter.

You're just going to have to experiment with it and see which way you like your's best.

As always keep track of your motor and ESC temps and make sure that nothing is running hotter than 170 degrees.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Steve, will have a play and experiment!

Skiddins

Hi Steve, how much timing can the Novak 10.5SS motors take?

How much actual movement does this relate to on the timing ring?

Thanks
Skiddins

Steve Weiss

Skiddins,

I wouldn't really go much further than 3/4 full timing honestly... the higher you crank the timing the smaller the gearing window seems to get

I have seen a lot of guys running their timing full cranked...but I see them have alot of problems as well.

eflite300

iTrader: (2)

I do not understand how to change the timing on the motor . what will this help if you do ?

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Just undo the 3 screws on the end of the motor that the wires connect to and turn the blue timing ring, then do up the screws again

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

Which direction? Will it work with all Novak motors?

Skiddins

Ok, but how much movement in the timing ring is full?

I'm assuming that the timing ring turns anti-clockwise to advance the timing?

Skiddins

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Mine moves just so that the 3 terminals remain between the 2 notches either side. Yes, anti clockwise advances the timing and increases rpm at the expense of greater heat generation.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

I've got a Novak 4cell gtb and 10.5 combo that's worked perfectly in my 1/12th scale car for a good long time. absolutely no issues. But today I tried running the same speedo with one of novak's new 4.5Lite motors. I followed the gearing recommendations from the novak site and ran 30.5mm rollout. But even at this very low gearing, the speedo would thermal and shut down after about 20 laps (on carpet). The motor was not getting very hot at all which would seem to indicate that it's not overgeared. But the speedo was too hot to touch. Each time this happened (usually at the end of the straightaway), the car would shut off.....hesitate for a few seconds........and then pick back up again for about a half lap before shutting down again. By contrast, when I run the 10.5 motor with the same speedo and exact same settings (aside from using a 60mm rollout with the 10.5 motor), the car runs flawlessly. Any ideas????? The only thing I can imagine is that I've always had the car wired since day 1 with 16 guage wire. Is it perhaps possible that it's not acceptable to run the lower wind motors with the thinner wires that are typically used in 1/12th scale cars? Could the thin wires possibly be causing the speedo to overheat while the motor is not getting hot at all? Anybody with any suggestions or ideas how to solve the thermal problem with the speedo.........your input would be greatly appreciated.

kudders

Just on the subject of timing, I have a Novak 13.5ss with the tuning rotor fitted. Also the timing is fully advanced. The car is very fast and i don't seem to have excessive heat or any other bad effects.

Question is, if I want to return to standard timing, how do I know where standard is? Am being cautious as I have heard retarding should not be done under any circumstances