Fenix gear diff issues
#16
I did indeed send additional video and pictures to the fenix sites email. But he refused to get them sent to over.
Also I posted a very clear video on the fenix face book page, I wish he would have posted that.
I know some of you will hinge over the quality of a picture, I however maintain that better customer service and over all quality are the real issues here.
Also, they just now replied to me on Facebook that the issue is being handled, better late than never.
Last edited by AlBundy; 01-28-2017 at 10:54 AM.
#18
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hi Fenix guys,
This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.
The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?
The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?
I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.
I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.
This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.
The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?
The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?
I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.
I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.
#20
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Hi Fenix guys,
This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.
The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?
The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?
I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.
I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.
This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.
The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?
The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?
I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.
I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.
#21
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Land of high taxes and bad football
Posts: 1,807
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Hi Fenix guys,
This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.
The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?
The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?
I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.
I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.
This isn't a quality problem, but just wanting to get advice on maintenance.
The gear diff is working great. I did have to put a spacer between the spring and cap. The hex with the set screw would slide all the way to the end (closest to the upright) and allow the wheel hex adapter about 3mm of play. Did anyone else run into this?
The main question is how to keep the oil from leaking when not racing. Or is it expected to have to fill the diff before every race? If so, how do you ensure the diff gets rebuilt the same every time?
I tried 100K, but most of that flung out of the diff after 3 runs. I moved to 500K and have had awesome performance, but it gets real messy filling, running in, then cleaning up the excess.
I'd appreciate any advice you guys might have.
Gear diffs that sling silicone everywhere..... that will be easy to get out of carpet.
#22
Yeah, lightly coat the gears. If you have to move up in heavier diff oil, then do so to maintain the previously lighter (but totally filled) diff.
#24
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I'm testing new tires that have a lot of rear traction on carpet, so I've already done everything I can to get the car to rotate. Loading the gear diff with 500K got the back end to slide just the right amount.
I'm either going to half fill the diff with 500K and store the diff upright between races or lightly coat the gears with Gravity 2 Million. Seems ridiculous, but with these tires, it's only .2 slower with a 25.5 than the track hot shot with a 21.5.
I'm either going to half fill the diff with 500K and store the diff upright between races or lightly coat the gears with Gravity 2 Million. Seems ridiculous, but with these tires, it's only .2 slower with a 25.5 than the track hot shot with a 21.5.
#25
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I'm testing new tires that have a lot of rear traction on carpet, so I've already done everything I can to get the car to rotate. Loading the gear diff with 500K got the back end to slide just the right amount.
I'm either going to half fill the diff with 500K and store the diff upright between races or lightly coat the gears with Gravity 2 Million. Seems ridiculous, but with these tires, it's only .2 slower with a 25.5 than the track hot shot with a 21.5.
I'm either going to half fill the diff with 500K and store the diff upright between races or lightly coat the gears with Gravity 2 Million. Seems ridiculous, but with these tires, it's only .2 slower with a 25.5 than the track hot shot with a 21.5.
Just don't not fill with any amount of fluids other than a very light coating on the gears. Its will spin out do to centrifugal force and get all over your car and the track.
#27
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Do not half fill the diff. your only supposed to put a light coat on the gears. 2 mil is no problem I've done that this past week. Chucks suggestion of the Red grease should be a great one also.
Just don't not fill with any amount of fluids other than a very light coating on the gears. Its will spin out do to centrifugal force and get all over your car and the track.
Just don't not fill with any amount of fluids other than a very light coating on the gears. Its will spin out do to centrifugal force and get all over your car and the track.
Living in Shanghai, there are no car parts stores to pick up the Lucas oil as suggested.