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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-24-2018, 06:00 AM

#4756

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce_R

2.4 inch tires work fine on the eb410, right? Just need to have the TLR 22 offset up front, right?

It's been a long time since I've ran 2.4" (aka 60mm) wheels, is anyone still making tires this size? Yes, the TLR22-3.0 wheels worked fine for me, however the depth of the hexes are kind of shallow, I would not use these wheels in mod or will risk stripping the hexes. For 13.5T racing on clay, I usually got about 2 race days... some folks were reporting issues with the sidewalls of 2.4" tires tearing, but I never had that problem with only 2 race days in the stock class.

10-24-2018, 06:19 AM

#4757

Bruce_R

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Thanks Bill. I know Jconcepts and Sweep Racing make the 2.4 inch tires. I suspect more.

So is the offset different between the TLR 22 3.0 and 4.0 wheels? I thought I saw 22 4.0 is right for the Tekno.

10-24-2018, 06:40 AM

#4758

billdelong

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I am not sure if they changed the offset between TLR22-3.0 and TLR22-4.0 front wheels (pretty sure it's the same offset, but I could be wrong), I have ran TLR22-3.0 wheels on my EB410 without any issue... the club in my area switched to turf just before the EB410 was first introduced so I never had the chance to run the 2.4" wheels on my EB410 because I don't know of any 2.4" turf tires that are made, but I did run TLR22-3.0 wheels on my Schumacher CAT K2 (both 2.2" and 2.4") which shares the same track width as the EB410 which was really nice to switch cars. That said, I know that the TLR22-3.0 wheels in 2.4" will work on the EB410 perfectly fine.

10-24-2018, 11:43 AM

#4759

RazorRC

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Quote:

Originally Posted by billdelong

Offsets are the same between the 3.0 and 4.0. And there's no "dash" after TLR22. That make it look like something completely different!!!

10-24-2018, 12:47 PM

#4760

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RazorRC

Offsets are the same between the 3.0 and 4.0. And there's no "dash" after TLR22. That make it look like something completely different!!!

oh don't get me started on naming conventions, TEKNO is the only company who has actually done a proper job of doing this! sadly everyone wants to be different, argh

TLR223.0 is kind of hard to understand, no rhyme or reason to say that it's a 2WD car though I can sort of see that the TLR22-44.0 is a 4WD car but really hard to see what version the car is without any delimiters between. At least with TEKNO, they call it a EB410.1, no mistake there, but then Associated calls their buggy an RC10B64D (seriously???)... at least XRay goes by year XB4'2019 but what happens if you do 2 releases in 1 year??? What happens if you pull a Microsoft and skip a version?

10-24-2018, 06:02 PM

#4761

Joe67usmc

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Thanks for the picture, it helps. But what are the Turn buckle screwing into in the center? That plastic plate looks like its only fastened by the two screws. Is this what every ones set up looks like?

10-24-2018, 06:08 PM

#4762

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe67usmc

The article I linked which shows the step by step instruction is linked to an eBay sale that ended, here is the current part you need to buy to flip the arms properly:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...hFkq:rk:1:pf:0

10-24-2018, 09:28 PM

#4763

OSherman

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There may still be some of the SwayBar Mounts available on eBay. I just got mine last week. Simple ‘EB410’ search there will find them.

10-24-2018, 09:29 PM

#4764

OSherman

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To flip the Rear Arms/Shock you will need the optional Rear Shock Tower.. This new Tower has new locations for the CamberLinks (Turnbuckles)

10-24-2018, 09:38 PM

#4765

billdelong

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For racing on turf, I would recommend the VRP +3mm rear tower to get the rear ride height as low as 14mm:
https://www.visionracingproducts.com...10-VRP1526.htm

Note that it offers a roll center position that is lower than the stock bar that is removed when flipping the arms, this allows a higher roller center which is ideal for high traction conditions

10-25-2018, 09:01 AM

#4766

billjacobs

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I recently picked up this buggy (used, but new to me,) and am very surprised as to how good it is. I have always had xrays (xb4 13, 14, 15, then updates to the 15 to make it similar to the 16 and 17.) The eb410 is simply easier to drive fast. It doesn't feel on edge, lands much better than the xray, and parts are much cheaper.

I moved the rear shocks forward, and given how many racers have done this, I would suggest that tekno offer optional arms for the shock forward position to correct the wheelbase and allow for the droop screws. They could also mold the sway bar mount and offer a kit for the conversion including the rear carbon tower ($35 or so.)

Great job tekno!!

10-25-2018, 09:11 AM

#4767

jonski

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Indoor clay medium grip track...guys that have done the rear shocks forward, do you feel it was worth it. I am currently running mine on the rear (stock location) and the thing feels great. I know on my TLR 22 4.0 I currently run the shocks in the forward position. I hate dremeling my cars, using parts from different cars, etc. If Tekno did release an actual are for it, I would run it in a heart beat.

10-25-2018, 09:59 AM

#4768

Joe67usmc

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How is everyone including the chassis brace body mount? #TRK6538 = The small plastic piece that has the nub for the body and the lower ring to mount the chassis braces. It does not fit when using the eBay MOD part. Is this not used when doing the MOD? Are you trimming it back? Please let me know

10-25-2018, 10:01 AM

#4769

mupchu

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You don't need to dremel anything, and it is not all that difficult. Get the carbon shock tower, ebay part, flip the arms and done. You can swap between the shocks forward or behind really easy without any mods. I like shocks forward but you may or may not.