STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

bigdog has run a box stock MI2 (added the front and rear carpet towers) on carpet with foam and rubber tire's and has been very competetive. Mo has some very good set up's for the tracks in our area. Once you open yours there will be one more track to see if the same set up works. from Stockton to Gilroy the only change in the set up was lying the front shocks down one hole.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

I have them on their way,2.5 chassis and carpet towers..I do plan on running..Alot of laps,one of The fleet will work..

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

I made some snap ring pliers out of body scissors. You just have to dremel the tips so they're flat and small enough to fit in the holes of the snap ring. They work just as good as anything for getting those stupid snap rings out of the diffs, but they arn't very good body scissors anymore...

-weylin

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

Jon on your set-up you posted you say that stand up the front shocks to the outside hol on tower. and i was thinking that , that would not let me get hard corners as my local track is a small tight track. If i put the shocks on the 2 hol in on tower would that let me take them more easily?

speedxl

Well lucky for me I worked as an auto tech for 14 years and have all sorts of cool tools to play with!.

Go to auto zone if your looking for an inexpensive set of circlip removers, if you have a little extra cash get snap ring pliers from snap-on.

mo

iTrader: (7)

LoSi xXx S: Having the shock more vertical will make the car turn in harder than laying them down. When you lay them down, you take away initial turn in and get more on-power steering.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

If you look though, the front roll center being only 1mm will give the car a ton of turn in. Trust me. Set the car up exactly how it is on the sheet, drive it a couple times, and then start making adjustments. You don't want to do anything until you actually drive it and see how it feels. I run this setup on a tiny little parking lot track that we can't hardly run modified on it's so small and narrow. The front roll center effects the handling of the car a ton. Lowering that from the stock 2mm down to 1mm will give tons of turn in.

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

Oh ok and it says to run 5mm ride height and i never run the car that high as i dont like how it feels but ill run it just how your setup says to see what it does ....



MO oh thanks for telling me that cause i really didnt know what standing or laying the shocks meant.

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

Jon i did your method on setting droop and i dont like it . I will like to stick the old fashion way. what is the droop using ae or hudy gauge doing it the normal way.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I'm not sure what it would be that way. I use the Schumacher droop gauge but just to make sure they're equal on both sides. Never really paid attention to what the actual measurement was.

What don't you like about that method? That's how most of us set droop.

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

Its just wierd i guess. i just dont want one side having more than the other.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

That's why you use the Hudy gages after you set the droop by ride height. Just set the rear so that when it's lifted up and the tires are just touching the surface, the ride height gauge reads 8mm. Do the same for the front but set it to 7.5mm. Then take off the tires and use your Hudy gauge to even them out. If one side is for instance at a little above 4 on the gauge and the other side is almost 5, go half way between and set it to 4.5 on the gauge on both sides. It'll still be right about the same true droop but it'll be even on both sides.

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

Ok Jon is this correct i did your method of doing drop and when i took all the tires off and when to see if they where equal this thing has 7mm drop in the rear and 6.5 in the front! is this correct? ive never had a car that have had to put that much droop on it.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

If it's 7 and 6.5 on the gauge, that's fine as long as it's correct with the tires on and using the ride height gauge. Again, the only reason I use a regular droop gauge is to ensure they're equal left to right. I don't pay attention to what the number on the gauge actually is.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Also, different gages may give different readings. The Hudy to the Schumacher one for instance. Plus on those gages, they're backward. The higher number the less droop you actually have. So after looking at that, are you sure you're right with 6.5 in the front and 7.0 in the rear? With the gauge being backward, you should have a higher number in the front since you'll have less droop. This is why I use the true droop method. There's no confusion.