fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

Wild Cherry

Rc , can say use what ever works for you .

Just wanted to get a better understanding why your polishing & give my reasons I don't have to do.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

personally, i dont polish. I cut two threads off the JC turnbuckles, and then use a ball stud with slits cut in it to ream the ball cups. You should try.. will make tacompton setup soooo dialed.

Wild Cherry

Yesterday had another guy switch his ride to the Tacompton .2..



Braa.....
Lol

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I posted a video a while back showing brand new stud with brand new cups. And the rod were only threat in by 2-3 threads. And they would stand up in the air without a load. I tried the same with with several different new cups and studs and it was 100% the same thing. To me a proper link is free moving like the tlr22 cups in my video. My cups are "ok" after being worked, but they are no where near the freeness of the tlr cups. But they are probably "free enough" I guess. I agree that the cup ream is probably the best method. I have not got around to ordering one and trying it yet. A guy I know bought them and I might see if I can play with it between rounds.


Here was the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NJD...JV_i33VjYn47zw

Wild Cherry

TY for sharing that ..

Just using Bee's wax on the threads is all I have been doing.

Buggy Buddy

This is great! It applies to both on and off-road setups. I'm going to try and build my B5 tomorrow (no guarantees), I'll post some photos.

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

I really do not understand why people just don't get it. The ball cups on our new cars are basically "eyelets" not cups like previous cars. Brand new ones can come a little out of round too. Even if your turn buckles are the "perfect" length, if you REALLY slam a pipe or have a BAD barrel roll, more times than not the eyelet/cup will distort in shape, causing a bind. If you take your pliers and give it a squeeze in the RIGHT place, bingo! Free as a bird again! No polishing and no rocket science involved either.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

I dont even do that I use my man hands.

Johnjoe38

.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

i agree with you.. to a point. Even with the perfect "pinch spot" (ive been doing that for 15 years on 1/8th scales) they still arent perfect without reaming the cups.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have been trying to find the right spot for years. So I just polish my balls

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

That "spot" certainly doesn't elude me.

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

Depends on the cup, and it's overall condition I would think.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

yes, im talking about AE cups specifically. And it also depends on the angle of the tie rod with ae cups which is why some are more bound than others

Ultimately its a pointless argument, as unless someone feels the difference between a reamed cup and non reamed cup they wont believe me. If we were in the same city i could easily prove to you that it does make a difference.

There are always people that go onto threads and claim theyve never had a problem. I saw the same thing in the Serpent thread where people were breaking chassis left and right and people would come in and say "you must drive it into a brick wall, ive never had a problem!!"

I hope one day AE will adjust their tolerance in the cups slightly so the average noob has less problems, until then ill try to advocate to people the 5 minute solution ive found to fix all their problems.