BuGgYBaShEr.28

Hello guys, I just purchased a rc8te roller and a lst already converted to brushless. Looks like an aftershock maybe, but my first question is the foc is not installed and I just ordered the losi kit. Good choice to have the foc??

Secondly, if I wanted to convert to the longer chassis like the xxl, all I need is the chassis, braces, plates and also the center shafts, is that all?

Thirdly, if I wanted to use the xxl battery tray the double den one, would it just bolt to my lst chassis?


And lastly, it has a rcm motor mount, I'm told it will mount a 1717 motor thag I already have, anyone can confirm this?? Is there something else needs attention to run that 1717? And thanks.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

The FOC is the way to go. I had a conversion keep popping out of gear but the reverse lever was tied to the chassis with wire. The other big thing needed is a single speed hub so that you can ditch the mechanical brakes and servo. Losi has one and so does TDR but I'm not sure if he has any in stock, the other option is a homemade locking solution of you don't already have a single speed hub.

The XXL is just a longer main chassis plate, longer side rails and center shafts. The center skid and all other parts are the same as the short chassis. Easy way to tell them apart is the amount of screws in the center of the chassis going into the side rails. Short chassis has 2 per side while XXL has 3 per side.

RC-M motor mount. When being designed Mike said it would take a 1717 but I saw one owner who had to put a small spacer between the two pieces of the mount to get a 1717 to fit. This made the screws a little short and they pulled out during a bash session. So if you do put a spacer in there get some longer screws. They're 4mm diameter if I remember correctly.

When you say XXL battery tray I assume you mean the XXL2e battery tray. The only chassis the XXL2e battery tray will bolt to without modification is the XXL2e chassis. I'm sure it'll fit up front on a XXL length chassis but you might have issues mounting it. I have no idea where the or how exactly the XXL2e tray mounts but to avoid issues I'd go with the gas XXL2 chassis. The XXL2 chassis has a big hole for the throttle/brake servo but doesn't have a hole for the reverse servo minimizing the chance of the tray mounting holes lining up with a big hole.

Here's some fine print to keep in mind. With the XXL2e Losi put the motor up front opposite most brushless conversions. They also changed the motor mount bolt pattern slightly so the RC-M (and all other non XXL2e) mounts won't work on the XXL2e chassis. The easy thing to do is to get the new Losi conversion kit that includes the XXL2e chassis, mount and tray but then you can't use a 1717 as its limited to 40-42mm motors unless you make a custom L bracket mount. Or you can find out exactly how the XXL2e tray mounts or pick a different tray to use with whatever chassis you want.

If it was me I'd keep the RC-M mount, get some longer screws if I had to to fit the 1717. Get an XXL or XXL2 chassis and make my own battery tray out of Lexan to hold your 2 batteries. Just cut the Lexan with flaps to fold like a cardboard box, heat the fold area, bend and hold until it cools and it'll hold its shape. Then you can orient your packs however you want. Plus a sheet of Lexan is under $20 and you'll have plenty left over to make another tray and some shelfs to mount the esc.

Herrsavage

The Aftershock came without reverse, so afaik an FOC kit would be superfluous.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Was busy thinking about mounting everything I forgot about that. Good catch. But it could be a XXL as they came with plastic shocks too or it could be a Frankenstein truck. Pics?

BuGgYBaShEr.28

So I contacted horizon hobby also, and they replied with all of the lst and aftershock line of trucks having the same holes and mounts and said that xxl 2e battery tray would mount up. Also asked about the foc amd he said its based on preference. I would also like the option of mounting my 1717 as I don't have to buy an extra 1515 plus it would be a beast!!

Here is the auction I won as I haven't received it yet. If you guys can lead me the way and tell me exactly what I have. I'm pretty good with these cars as I built a flm/rpm emaxx that also ran this 1717 for a while if ppl can remember my build. Its also for sale as a roller if someone is looking.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Losi-E-Lst-Aft...=1208396802003



As far as the single speed hub, I'm unsure of whats on the truck but he was originally running the arrma blx system from the kraton.


My next question is I am swapping evrything from my emaxx to this and would like to do a single servo, so what's involved in that? And are these gears mod 1 or .8?

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Yup I remember the EMaxx build. What you have is a LST1/Aftershock, someone put aluminum threaded shock bodies on it. It already has FOC and a Losi single speed hub so you don't have to do anything to the driveline besides check out the diffs and shim them if need be. I'd also remove the brake discs, no reason for them and less to go wrong with them gone.

The motor mount is not a RC-M, it's a knockoff from a kit someone sells on eBay. Good news is the mount is tall enough for a 1717 as is. Bad news is if previous owner was running Aarma system the mount probably has 3mm motor mount screws not the 4mm the 1717 takes. Wouldn't be too hard to open up the slot though, I ised a dremel router bit and had it done in seconds. Also I think there should be an insert for the bottom motor mount screw.

The spur is mod1. That's good the XXL2e battery tray will work. I do have some bad news though. As I said you have a LST1/Aftershock, which is not the same as (or quite as strong) as the LST2 suspension arms, knuckles and axles. The worst part is the 14mm hex, the wheels are going to strip out eventually. I stripped one of those wheels, glued the hex into the wheel and then spun the drive pin inside the hex(!) a couple minutes later! So plan on going 17mm at some point.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Going single servo isn't hard with these trucks. But with the weight of these trucks and the big tires you can't go single servo and have a servo saver. There's no servo saver stiff enough. So you simply ditch the saver, pop on an aluminum servo horn and make a short link out of rod ends. I think a Jato steering link is the right size if you don't want to make the link.

There are 2 things you need to do this right. First is you want the link to be just the right length to get the servo horn and the steering bellcrank as parallel to each other as possible. Second is you obviously need a strong, high quality servo do deal with the fact there's no servo saver. I run a Hitec robot servo that's very closely related to the regular digital Hotec's with 333pz and it's taken some good hits over the years and still going strong. Some have even broken the aluminum servo horn and the servo emerged fine. Obviously won't be the case with lesser servos though.

BuGgYBaShEr.28

Well I have some 4mm scres to try. And by looking at it how can you tell its had the foc installed? The dude told me over and over again it did not so I went ahead and bought one. Well I open it and see if its installed. So did I not get as good of a auction as I thought??


Switching wheel hex should be to hard, (a matter of buying 17mm hexes thats it right??) just a pain to buy new tires....there is also a extra set of a arms so maybe he already switched them out? How would you tell? And how can you tell its the knock of rcm mount?


So if I want this 1717 to run what should I do first to keep this a strong truck? And also I have a savox 2270 which if I remember is brushless metal gear and also pushing like over 400 something oz of torque.

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331797174456
That's the mount on the truck, not a RC-M mount, compare pics on RC-M and the fact the eBay account doesn't say anything about RC-M. The single speed is a knock off of TDR's and this has been discussed here before. It's what you have and it will work there's just the matter of 3mm or 4mm motor mount screws.

Trust me, I know what LST1/Aftershock arms look like compared to LST2, all the arms on the truck and the spares are LST1/Aftershock. The LST2 suspension arms are wider when viewed from the top, the knuckles are different to accomodate them and the rear knuckles dont have toe adjustment so there's no rear tie rod. The LST2 stub axles are 8mm like a 1/8 buggy/truggy. LST1/Aftershock stub axles are stepped like a Maxx or Savage stub and threaded on the end for a nut. Sorry I do not know what 17mm adapters are best for LST1 stub axles, I know Traxxas style will fit but there will be lots of space (at least 1/8") between the 17mm adapter and the knuckle.

FOC: have a look at the trans. See the 2 shallow holes at the top that don't actually go inside the trans? If there was reverse there would be a post with an arm attached to it coming out of the hole on the drivers side. No arm and I don't see a post either so there's no reverse in this trans.

The trans on the truck makes me think it was originally an Aftershock someone added some upgrades to. The threaded aluminum shock bodies, blue aluminum diff cases etc. But this is used and could be frankensteined so all bets are off. When you get it I'd open up the trans, take note of where the gold colored gear is as this will tell if the gear flip mod was done or not. Then count the teeth on the output bevel gears as there are 3 different ones they could be. The blue aluminum diff cases could be just the cases or newer HD diffs from a XXL. Only way to know if by opening them up and having a look inside the diff cup to see if the metal inserts are in the diff cup. Non HD diffs are pretty strong too (no problem in my nephews 2200kv 4s and they're just shimmed used units) but for 1717 power you're gonna want HD in there eventually.

ruudxd

For more info on the single servo mod, check this topic:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...pic-heavy.html

BuGgYBaShEr.28

Ok so if I wanted to run lst2 axles, would they simply just swap without issues? And then I could run lst2 17mm hubs. If I want to run this 1717, seems like the axles and hubs need upgraded and I'll see what diffs are in it. Anything else to start with?


As far as the trans, he said he never removed it so that's why it stills jas the brake discs. To his knowledge there is no foc but again I will check. I am not familiar with these trucks at all and the many versions. Am I wasting my time with this truck and should have bought the lst2?


And btw, thanks for your help overdriven

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

To run LST2 axles you need LST2 knuckles, bearings and outer hinge pins. Me personally I'd get LST2 arms to go with them but you can run LST1 arms in LST2 knuckles if you use some spacers like the RPM arms do. The link below is for those spacers and the pic shows a LST2 knuckle with the spacers and LST1 width RPM arm. RPM arms were never made in LST2 width hence the spacer kit. And nothing has to be changed on the chassis to run LST2 suspension, just remove the old stuff and put it back together with the LST2 arms and stuff. Just to be clear the XXL's came after the LST2 and all XXL's use LST2 suspension so there's plenty available at chop shops.

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-...the-losi-lst2/

With the exception of the LST1 spec suspension and 14mm hex wheels it looks like you have a good starting point. I wouldn't worry too much about the diffs, just shim them up and run them until they need to be replaced. And HD diffs didn't come out until the XXL so getting a LST2 wouldn't have helped you in that respect.

It can get a little confusing with the different models of LST's that were available. Kind of like keeping track of what diffs came in all the various models of Maxx over the years. But like the Maxx the main chassis and suspension mounting points never changed so lots is interchangable. In fact more things are interchangable on the LST than the Maxx since things like diffs (even HD diff cups use the same spider gears as non HD) and the trans never changed.

BuGgYBaShEr.28

Alright so I'll replace the a arms since they are cheap.


Im looking at this list right now to get me back up to speed :

-lst2 xxl a arms front and rear
-lst2 xxl hubs for the rear and spindles for the front
-lst2 xxl 17mm hubs from rd logics or losi
-lst2 xxl axles front and rear


Along with some new wheels, anything else to add? And when running the 17mm hubs with the xxl 8mm axles, will they just bolt right up or do I need 20mm hubs for the axles?

Overdriven

iTrader: (18)

Losb3516 are 17mm hubs that will just bolt on to the LST2 8mm axles and include shims to go behind the 17mm hex adapter and knuckle. Losi 8ight series 17mm hex also fit but they don't come with the shims. One thing, if you go with losb3516 or any nonextended hex get 1/2 offset wheels to maintain the same width at the outside edge of the tires as stock. I personally used 1/2" extended 17mm adapters with my standard offset wheels.

If you'd rather have the stock wheels then you'd want the 20mm hex adapters that come stock on the LST2 and XXL's. But the only 20mm hex wheels are Losi wheels and the Losi wheels only take Losi 420 series or 40 series tires which makes for a limited selection.

LST2 parts for the front would be carriers and spindles as Losi calls them. Just don't forget the outer hinge pins that attach the carriers to the arms if you're buying separately.

Herrsavage

When converting an LST2/XXl to 17mm, you generally need shims between the hubs and the hexes.. Forget the size exactly. HPI makes the perfect size I know.. I want to say 8x12x.2 or something, but don't quote me on that.. Google it and you should find the right size.