6376vette

I have run 25.5 VTA and 21.5 USGT. they make a huge difference when used correctly. They are not strictly a mod class piece. Yes the car will perform great without them. No arguments on that point but it is even better with the proper use of the front and rear sway bar. I will make a stupid but very relevant comparison. When was the last time you saw a full size car without one? Especially a race car. Yea we are smaller and lighter but so are our sway bars and we deal with the same physics concerning weight transfer and suspension action. They sway bars do work. Even in the slower classes.

rdcracer

iTrader: (4)

Steve M I figured all the grinding and such reversing the belts. My question is the top chassis plate. 2 of your pics it is missing and the last showing the servo mount mod has it on but you cant see how it is around the motor mount. Do you have to cut and grind the top plate to make it fit?

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The stock top plate must have the center section widened and lengthened when using the vertical motor mount.

rdcracer

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I figured but didnt want t start cutting until sure. Thanks

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I used my Dremel rotary tool with the small diameter sanding drum. I extended the slot in the middle of the brace another 1/2 inch or so, and only as wide as the sanding drum.

rdcracer

iTrader: (4)

Thanks I am heading out to the garage now dremel in hand. Now is that cut twice and measure once

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Right. Just go slow and trial fit as you go.

buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

I just put my zero on carpet track for first practice. All i can say is love it,sold my Corally rdx thank god i did. Zero seemed very balanced have 125k in front diff 5 k in rear diff. Track owner seems a lil skeptible says he thinks it could be odd ball . lol well maybe i will have to be my own hobby store but heck i can buy extra car for parts.
wonder how people will feel when i beat them with 120 dollar car lol..
only thing i noticed was a slight push on corner entry but it sure did dig hard coming out of corner.
i am trying to learn more onsway bars and how and when to use them . any ideas?

aquito

Hey guys quick question. The pitch on the pinion gear for the Sakura is 64p right? I'm gonna be running a brushless 3200kv motor on stock spur gear..what size pinion gear should I use? Will be using the car for drifting and just playing around parking lots..thanks

x3inchesx

iTrader: (12)

The pitch on the spur gear included is 48. Don't what pinion to try but I would start around 25. That would give you a 6.08 FDR. Just watch your temps after 5 min or so.

aquito

48p is the size of the 1/10 off roads like traxxas and AE? because i have some spares

rdlkgliders

iTrader: (21)

does anyone know if the front or rear suspension mounts (brackets) fit on the xray t3 11 & 12 chassis?

6376vette

Glad you like the sakura. Its not an odd ball they all work great Some people get upset but most will ask you more about the car. You will probably see a few more pop up. This chassis has done tons to bring in people that cant afford a new xray. They can spend less and be just as fast. It is a great car.

I always recommend that people learn to tune what you have first. Get a solid understanding of the rest of the suspension, how it works, and how changes affect the car. If you add sway bars right away they can make the learning curve steeper and more confusing.

Sway bars are a quick way to increase or decrease traction at either end of the car. The changes are not as apparent as a spring change though. They are meant for finer tuning. Instead of changing the springs and shock oil you can go a step harder or softer on the sway bar. If you have a decent car but you want a little more steering then you can either soften the front bar or stiffen the rear bar. What you do to one end will affect the other. The sway bars basically tie the right side of the car to the left side of the car. When you turn and compress the outside suspension the other side of the bar will pull the inside arm up thus lowering the inside of the chassis thus changing the traction characteristics by keeping the center of gravity lower and controlling the chassis roll. The stiffer the bar the more the inside arm is pulled up and the less the chassis rolls.

The sway bars will be affected by springs shock oil ride height and droop. You really need to understand now these things work before you add the bars.

Probably not the best explanation of how they work but I hope it helps a little. They do work extremely well. For example I needed more center turn steering tonight. I had a very stiff front sway bar on the car. I went from the #5 bar to the #4 and finally to the #2 and I ended up with the steering I wanted without messing with the shocks.

As a general rule that occasionally gets broken I try to keep my front bar equal to or stiffer than the rear. A softer front usually ends up with some funky handling characteristics.

buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

thanks for info vette I do have a decent understanding of how suspension affects car handling . i also use the xxxmain set up book, the only thing in the setup book says front toe out increases intial turn in and decreases exit turn and other places i have read the opposite.i tend to believe front toe out decreases intial toe turn in and increases exit turn.I may buy the sway bars and put the softest ones on just to try and see what it does .Most guys at our track use no sway bars , they say vta needs to be loose suspension ,but i am open to new ideas . thanks again

MC112b

iTrader: (64)

You have a PM