8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
11-09-2013, 12:34 PM
#3004
Tech Regular
11-09-2013, 02:40 PM
#3005
Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.
Beth.
11-09-2013, 03:03 PM
#3006
yeah black bladders for the win, the other thing to make sure is that when you tighten down the cap retainer you are not turning the shock cap as well,
Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.
Beth.
Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.
Beth.
11-10-2013, 11:10 AM
#3007
Tech Initiate
Hi people, did you test the short shock towers of roche rc with the news short shocks of the same Brand?
I want to try it, but I don't know what to do.
P.d: I run in pro stock class (same as ets
I want to try it, but I don't know what to do.
P.d: I run in pro stock class (same as ets
11-10-2013, 11:34 AM
#3008
yeah black bladders for the win, the other thing to make sure is that when you tighten down the cap retainer you are not turning the shock cap as well,
Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.
Beth.
Speaking of issues i installed Tamiya front ecs drive shafts, as i prefer the clip type to hold the pin in, and they were a pain to get right without the hex clamp binding down on the bearing when you tighten up the wheel nut. I had to modify slightly a set of 3racing clamps to get them to sit at the right spacing so they sit on the pin and not the bearing. A pain but worthwhile.
Beth.
11-10-2013, 12:21 PM
#3009
Arn0 at PetitRC was kind enough to host a set up sheet for us:
I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.
I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.
11-10-2013, 12:46 PM
#3010
I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.[/QUOTE]
Just wondering, the ball on the bulkhead... is that the standard silver Yokomo or a shorter neck?
There is a fair amount of shimming on the bulkhead for the standard silver Yokomo?
Just wondering, the ball on the bulkhead... is that the standard silver Yokomo or a shorter neck?
There is a fair amount of shimming on the bulkhead for the standard silver Yokomo?
11-10-2013, 03:58 PM
#3012
I received a question about the outside front camber link. I did not run any shims underneath the ball, but I failed to mention that I switched the ball to an Associated silver ball with 10mm thread. This ball is essentially 1mm higher than the yokomo ball, so it is roughly equivalent to the Yoke +1. The big advantage is in the longer threads, they go deeper inside the steering block and will not strip as easier. The ball ends really increase the durability of your steering blocks.
There is a fair amount of shimming on the bulkhead for the standard silver Yokomo?[/QUOTE]
Standard silver ball end. It allows the car to roll more at the front making it softer. It makes the car easier to drive.
11-10-2013, 08:48 PM
#3013
11-12-2013, 08:14 AM
#3014
Tech Initiate
Hey guys,
i have a bit blasphemous question for you. Does anybody know if some other cars spool fit BD7? I would like to race next weekend and yokomo europe is out of stock.
i have a bit blasphemous question for you. Does anybody know if some other cars spool fit BD7? I would like to race next weekend and yokomo europe is out of stock.