Mugen MTX-3
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Re: rear end traction
Originally posted by gentleman81
what is the trick to getting the rear end of the mtx3 to stay planted in the turns, tight turns at that. i intially had a problem with turn in and pushing alot, now i have that pretty much under control. now the car wants to whip around no brakes applied? i can turn in fine but mid corner it will just spin out most of the times off throttle. where would i go from stock setup.
i have the 2.5mm sway at the softest setting (at the ends)
and the front bar flat (softest also)
dark blue springs at the lowest wholes
what is the trick to getting the rear end of the mtx3 to stay planted in the turns, tight turns at that. i intially had a problem with turn in and pushing alot, now i have that pretty much under control. now the car wants to whip around no brakes applied? i can turn in fine but mid corner it will just spin out most of the times off throttle. where would i go from stock setup.
i have the 2.5mm sway at the softest setting (at the ends)
and the front bar flat (softest also)
dark blue springs at the lowest wholes
shifter jammed
sorry guys to interrupt can somebody guide me how to cater the shifter jammed problem?I knew u guys discuss before and i m running out of time coz d asian final round is getting close and i v got to make use to d car s i v never drive mugen before,this is my fisrt time driving as being sponsor by d organizer in Malaysia.
Do appreciate if you guys can help me out,d best that u hv come across to counter it.pliss..
Do appreciate if you guys can help me out,d best that u hv come across to counter it.pliss..
Re: rear end traction
When the rear end wants to swap ends, try a harder front sway bar setup (more vertical instead of flat soft setting).
Perhaps you want to give a mote detailed setup like droop, camber, toe in / out etc and the guys would probably be able to trouble shoot your problem better.
Perhaps you want to give a mote detailed setup like droop, camber, toe in / out etc and the guys would probably be able to trouble shoot your problem better.
Re: shifter jammed
So fast already jammed?
What is jammed? You meant the 2 speed oneway bearing?
What is jammed? You meant the 2 speed oneway bearing?
Re: Re: shifter jammed
Originally posted by InitialD
So fast already jammed?
What is jammed? You meant the 2 speed oneway bearing?
So fast already jammed?
What is jammed? You meant the 2 speed oneway bearing?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
The only time I have seen the 2 speed lock is when the the 2-speed shoes rotate on the center piece. You need to get the 2 speed assembled correctly and I tighten the center screws and those little balls down as tight as they will get without separating the two speed shoes. If they arent snug then the shoes will rotate on the center and jam the 2 speed.
I don't use the ball anymore for 2 speed. Instead I use longer screws (8mm) and directly tighten all the way down. The shift is awesome.... great punch. The ball setup allows you shifting much softer but sometimes the balls get jammed and ruined the clutch.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
my set up
front sway bar flat
35 shore fronts
dark blue springs
stock shock oil
shocks in lowest whole on tower
4-5 mm ride height
1.5 deg camber
caster 2mm
toe out .5 - 1.5mm
rebound ???
bump stop???
B ackerman
rear ride height 5-6
camber 3.5
toe 2.5
C rear block
2.5 rear sway at the softest setting
no shims on rear uprights (just removed, tip from another driver)
35 shore fronts
dark blue springs
stock shock oil
shocks in lowest whole on tower
4-5 mm ride height
1.5 deg camber
caster 2mm
toe out .5 - 1.5mm
rebound ???
bump stop???
B ackerman
rear ride height 5-6
camber 3.5
toe 2.5
C rear block
2.5 rear sway at the softest setting
no shims on rear uprights (just removed, tip from another driver)
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
from this setup what can be done to better traction especially the rear end?
you didn't mention the shore for rear tires...
use the same shore as the front for rear or use harder front tires.
try the same ride height front and rear. 5mm is a good start.
use the same shore as the front for rear or use harder front tires.
try the same ride height front and rear. 5mm is a good start.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
thanks man, by the way i like that paint job.
thanks
let me know how it goes. remember, try to do one change at a time so you get to feel the difference each adjustment makes. this helps a lot to get to know the car.
let me know how it goes. remember, try to do one change at a time so you get to feel the difference each adjustment makes. this helps a lot to get to know the car.
hey gentleman81 what part of VA you race?
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Gentlemen81,
Try going to the B block in the rear as this will instantly change your roll-center and give you more rear traction. If thats not enough go to the A block. You could also try a longer rear camber link for more roll. The list could go on and on, but try this as it has an immediate effect on handling characteristics.
Try going to the B block in the rear as this will instantly change your roll-center and give you more rear traction. If thats not enough go to the A block. You could also try a longer rear camber link for more roll. The list could go on and on, but try this as it has an immediate effect on handling characteristics.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
so am i wrong about the rear block, i though the C was the block for low traction tracks and A was the block for the high traction tracks?
thanks for the entire boards input on my ???'s
thanks for the entire boards input on my ???'s