Lee_123

Just got one off these controller/motor combos. The basic idea of this controller was to offer an all in one sport level controller/motor combo which didn't need a booster or a receiver battery. It has an internal "smart booster" to run a 1s LiPO without needing a booster or reciever battery.

Initial impressions.
Packaging makes use of the current 2s boxes. All printing on the boxes reference 2s batteries or 4 to 7 cell NiMH batteries. The only indication that it's a 1s system is a sticker on the box saying it is a 1s controller.

All included paper work is for the generic 2s LiPO version of the controller with the exception of a small yellow sheet that is 1s specific.

Looks like product roll out was ahead of the printing press.

Inside the ESC is prewired to the motor. A power capacitor is premounted on the ESC and a second glitch buster capacitor is included to connect to your receiver.

I can't test how well this system works right now because I feel it needs some work before I can use it in my 1/12th pan car.

First the battery connector has to be changed from the white Tamiya style connect to either a Deans (my choice) or bullet connectors. I don't think I've ever seen a Tamiya connector on a 1s LiPO battery.

The wires from the ESC to the motor are soldered without an intermediate connector. When I checked for positioning on chassis I couldn't get the wires to lay flat and not interferre with the shock and press against the body. This is a nuisance. Another thing I dislike is the gauge of the wire. They look like sausages, not the 16awg wire I normally see used on 1s LiPO powered cars.

The combo feels heavy, 276 grams, without the glitch buster capaciter. However, I haven't pulled my old system out of my car and weighed it yet, ( LRP QC3, Trinity Komodo 19t BR, 4 cell NiMH).

Lastly this ESC is tall. It has a preinstalled heat sink on it that doesn't look like it will fit under a 1/12th body. Because of the wiring interferrence I couldn't get a good look at this.

So before I can use it I feel I need to:
Hit the Novak website to see if removing the heat sink voids the warranty.
Hit the Novak website and look for up to date documentation.
Change the battery connector.
Change the wires to a resonable size wire gauge.
Install bullet connectors on the motor leads.

Looks like a great idea that fell a wee bit short on execution.

Oh and the literature says it is not compatible with 4 cell NiMH batteries.

Anyone tried to install this on a 1/12th with the heat echange installed, did it fit? If you removed the heat exchanger were the Temps Ok?

Thanks

Jim Frahm

iTrader: (68)

Novak offers a replacement heatsink for all Havok ESCs and it looks like a flat aluminum plate. It'll make installation into a 12th scale car a lot easier.

One note on the instructions: Disregard the step were you are to ensure the ESC is set to 1S, it's always set to 1S and can't be changed.

Jim

Lee_123

Thanks Jim

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

Lee if ya need ta borrow a 1s;hit me up @ horsham-mine have 3.5mm bullet connectors tho.Smc 5000 50c.
I think we should all run fixed timing speedo's as the speeds now are off the chart.I tried vers 203 on my Tekin and it shattered the rear rims.
I went back to 198--
Jeff

TonyK

iTrader: (5)

I can't offer anything to your thread but, please keep us up to date on the Havoc in a 12 scale. I thought about running one in mine to see if I can drive a 12 scale then get an RS.

Lee_123

Thanks for the offer Jeff but I think I'm all set. See you on the 30th at the Slowbirds.

Lee B.

timmig

iTrader: (25)

I put my own plugs on--bullets for the motor--and deans for battery--then removed the heatsink and used a belt sander to remove about 1/8" of the height of the heatsink--so it would fit under the body. Everything seemed to work fine after that.
FWIW
Tim

Lee_123

Part number: S4CPL $6 + $8 SH (ouch)

Link to site

http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...ber&t=1&i=all&

NovakTwo

We now have inventory, and will be listing, a low profile replacement heat sink accessory for the Havoc 1S and Havoc 2S for use in single cell racing. It is the existing HS with the cooling fins milled down.

We are also working on a less bulky TransCap module that can replace the module that is furnished with the controller; this new module will be for use with high wind spec motors only. The existing 2S TC module is optimized for low wind motors.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Lee, the slowbirds are the 31st

i'd swap out all that motor wiring with the TQ 16guage no-tweak wire...best stuff i've ever used in a 12th scale i didn't change out the battery wires, left them at 14 guage

Lee_123

Doh!..... I knew that, I really did! Must have been a brain cramp, yeah thats it a brain cramp.......... brought on by solder fumes,........... yeah that's it solder fumes!

Thanks dude

NovakTwo

Here is the link to our new low profile HS for our Havocs----1S, 2S, & 3S.

Havoc 1S Low-Profile Heat Sink Replacement

SMG

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pic of my 1 cell havoc set-up with a milled down heat sink. Seems to work really well.

TonyK

iTrader: (5)

SMG, how does the Havoc run in your 12 scale? Have you raced it? I want to put one in a 12 scale but worried that it would be way underpowered when running alongside the Tekins. I would be just learning to drive 12 scale. Thats why I really don't want to buy a Tekin.

Theslowguy

iTrader: (9)

Hacoc 1s is no match for the AE and Tekin stuff.


I had one club night, and one regional on mine before 'lights out'. It did it once to me when out of town. I turned it off, and back on 30 minutes later and it worked fine. This time the reboot didn't work. The BEC is still functioning though. Just no lights or throttle response.