evochick

iTrader: (5)

Hopefully this works

Setup sheet attached

Beth.

Tastetickles

Hi guys, I just got my hands on this kit and ran into a few problems when building it.

1. Do I still need to use the screws for the bulkhead if i use the front spring king pin conversion set? While not new to rc kit building, this is indeed my first F1 and I don't understand what those screws are for when used in conjunction with the front spring king pin set.

2. Spend 2 hours trying to assemble the X shock, for some reason I cannot secure the C shaped Clip into the recess of the plastic piece that screws on the shock. Everytime I try screwing it on slowly, the pressure from the shock oil would pop the clip off the plastic piece and the o-ring and white plastic would come off.



Please help or give me some tips on building that shock, do i need a special tool for the C-Clip?

evochick

iTrader: (5)

1.no you should not need the front bulkhead screws if using the kingpin front suspension, They are only used to control up and down stop with the standard front arm.

2. Yes the x shock is pain, really small circlip pliers help, but if you use a small screw flathead screwdriver to get the circlip in first into its seat, then you have to get the oil level right so it doesn't put any pressure on the assembly.
There is the small foam o ring which is meant to absorb that little bit of oil, but is just too small to do anything. It takes some practise to get the oil level right.

Beth.

RS_ZACH

iTrader: (25)

I had the same problem when building the shock. I used a really small flat head screw driver to get the c clip in there right. I also find that if you use alot of shock fluid and bleed it right. The pressure will still pop it out. I am not new to r/c kit building either. But I just didnt fill the shock all the way up to the top. Just seemed like everytime I did the pressure would pop it.

Funny username btw!

RS_ZACH

iTrader: (25)

Evochick.

What type of body are you running now, that you switched over to the narrow config? Post pictures.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

nope same body, looks a little odd in narrow, but they still give more front down force than the high nose bodies

RS_ZACH

iTrader: (25)

Nice. Been having trouble finding a body to use in narrow config. Dont want either of what Yokomo offers. Im leaning more torwards the F2012. But can hardly find any pictures of them mounted on a YRF.

rhodopsine

The instructions to build the shock are incomplete. Serpent's 120LTX shock is exactly the same and the instructions to properly build it are much clearer. Basically, you fill the shock body all the way then slowly thread the cap in, then compress the piston in the shock before having tightened the cap all the way. The cap has a channel grooved in to evacuate the excess oil. Keep the piston all the way in and slowly tighten the cap completely.

Martin Paradis

evochick

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the bleed tip, ill try it next time,

Just got back from Round 1 of the biggest F1 series in Australia,

very happy with how the Yokomo went all day, qualified 3rd and finished 2nd, with a win in the last main

still learning a few things running the car in narrow, but I am sure there is some more speed in it (mostly from the driver)

Video of the last main here, it was a lucky win but ill take it

http://youtu.be/Cy6dt6nDQEU

Beth.

Professor

iTrader: (12)

beth your car looked good all day but even more so in the finals a very well deserved result in a quality field well done

speed_cheech

Hi guys! Im planning on buying this kit and was wondering if I can swap the whole differential joint set with the tamiya f103 one? I have lots of spares for my f103 like the carbon rear axle, aluminum diff housing and joint set. Also, can I use a 0.4 module spur gear with the stock differential that comes with the kit? And one last thing, will a tamiya f103 wheel fit with this kit? Coz I notice the you no longer need a thrust bearing on the right rear wheel. Sorry for my noobness...

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

No need to switch out the differential. The Yokomo differential is great, sand the differential rings, throw in ceramic balls, add 2 extra bevel washers and your going to have a uber differential. Don't muck around with the Tamiya differential.

The 0.4 spur gear is Tamiya's own pitch. I would stick with the Yokomo spur gear and just work with that.

The F103 tires and rims will work. I have them currently on my YRF.


The YRF is an awesome machine, I'm very happy with it.

I would suggest working with the kit setup first. Really, really pay attention to the instructions and if you put the time and effort into the build it will pay off.

Preparation is key to a good handling r/c .

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Hey, Evochick. I was watching your video and viewed your setup sheet. By the looks of it the car looks pretty dialed.

Have you made any changes since?

Just curious as to why you've eliminated up travel?

evochick

iTrader: (5)

No you cant use an F103 diff, the Tamiya is metric, where as the yokomo uses standard imperial 12th/pan car diff. The yokomo diff is one of the best there is, add the usual extras like ceramic bearings, 2 extra cones, and some Associated 1/4x3x8 bearings (ASC897) for the thrust bearing, these are much stronger then the yokomo ones.
No the Tamiya spur gears wont fit.
Yes F103 tyres fit fine.

Only change to the setup sheet was to 3.1 caster.

sorry that was my mistake in the setup sheet, that was how much of the grub screw is sticking out from the bulkhead, not the total up and down stop values.

Beth.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, I know it's the grub screw length. So, how much total up travel do you have?

In the month of February, I'll be meeting one of Yokomo's factory drivers. If you like I can pick his brain for any rubber tire setups.

I'm currently running on foams and this car is on rails. Ridiculously fast and easy to drive. Love this car.