revrace

I will be purchasing an RC8 very soon. What are some recommended upgrades that I should add before even running it?? I have read a few things about "king headz" parts etc, but what is a "must have" for this car to be reliable.
Thanks for your help

KSimmonds

iTrader: (18)

The updated tank and service pack are the top of my list.

Nitro Herb

iTrader: (10)

Ive had my RC8 for over a month and race it atleast once a week and have had no breakage what so ever. Its still 100%stock and im still running the plastic top plate. Keep an eye on the clutch bearings and shoes, Shock bushings, and the steering rack bearings.

largeorangefont

iTrader: (4)

First as stated, get the service pack if your car does not have it included, and get the new white fuel tank. AE will send you both for free, or if you are local you can pick the stuff up. If your car has the service pack, just get the white tank and use the grey one as a spare.

2 things I would truly say to do before you run the car would be to install snap rings in the shock cartridges. Get them from Impulse-rc.com. They also have the best deal on replacement clutch shoes for the car.

http://impulse-rc.com/

And install a 17t clutch bell if you are going to run at a big track.

Other parts that are a very good idea but not needed are :

Alumnium top plate - black AE alumnium plate is the best. All the others are 2 pieces, and the AE is one piece. It is considerably cheaper than all the others.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23793

M2C D and B plates. These will eliminate the hinge pin wearing the alumnium toe and kickup plates. The M2C plates use the AE suspension pills that come with the car for adjustable toe and kickup. The M2C B and C plates allow you to bolt them to the chassis for addtional strength. You just have to drill holes in the chassis.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23659
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/25251
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/25250

Also the rod ends on the rear chassis brace wear quickly. Upgrade to alumnium chassis braces if you dont want to deal with it.

Get extra clutch bell bearings, and shock bushings. Also, the team base setup uses the RTR plastic shock caps, cut shock bladders and drilled 4 hole pistons. The RTR caps and pistons are cheap, but you may want to run the car as is first. The box stock setup is not bad at all. The stock shock springs are the ones to use. You may want to buy addtional sway bars for tuning however.

Thats pretty much it. It does not need a lot of mods, and the stuff that wears and gets sloppy is cheap and easy to replace.

shoxone808

I have all the king headz parts. its awesome, didn't break yet. i will try to run it with the carbon tower at the next race. i would treadlock all the screws first just in case.

revrace

Thanks for all of your great advice. What kinds of servo's do you recommend...throttle and steering. Also which starter box is the best? I will be using an M11 radio which I already have. Again thanks for all of your help.

largeorangefont

iTrader: (4)

I run JR digital servos, but anything with a .15 transit time or less and at least 200 oz/in of torque should be fine.

I use a 10 year old Ofna starter box. Any dual 550 motor or large single motor box that will work for an 1/8 scale car will work for you.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Some of the .21 motors are coming super tight these days and you will want a box with lots of torque to turn the motor over for break in. The old OFNA boxes really struggle with this. I hear the newer ones with the twin 550 motors are better but haven't used one myself. I like the Mugen box.

Nitro Herb

iTrader: (10)

I use the Associated 1015 for the throttle/brake and its more than enough its around 200oz. and .10 transit. I have a JR9000s in the steering which is only 180oz of torque but has a ridiculous transit time of .06 and is super fast. I really like the AE servos and will eventually ditch the 9000s and get another 1015 for the steering.The AE servos seem to be a little more efficiant and your reciever pack will last a longer on a charge, good for long mains.
For the stater box i use the ofna super king, blue with a chrome top. It has one large 12v motor so there is no belts or gears , just a big rubber wheel on the end of the motor. Direct drive= lots of power. i think its ofna # is 10250.

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

I have the Ofna 10245 box with a single 750 motor and two, cheap, Venom 1800mah nicd stick packs running it. Spins my V-Specs over like nothing even when they are new. I used it with my Works 28B7 pro, also. No issues and $65 retail. Small, easy to store, highly recommended bump box.

Hate2Looz

iTrader: (27)

I concur with the AE servos. I just run the 1313's and find that they are plenty strong and fast enough for my needs. They've been flawless.

shoxone808

futaba 9351 for steering and 9452 for throttle

blktransam

iTrader: (59)

I have had my rc8 for ruffly 7 mths. have all of the kings headz a-b-c-d plates, top mount and top plate,front knuckles and front and rear chassis braces. I did all of this right off the bat and have had ZERO breakage not a thing. I run ACE 1015 servos for both. and switch out between my v-spec-rb mod ws7x2- and my picco evo2 depending on which track i am racing at. great buggy I came from the losi 8ight and liek the rc8 more in the corners.

good luck with your purchase!

ehartman_49348

iTrader: (27)

+1 on the servos. I run the Ace version, which are the exact same as the AE. I run the 1313 and the 1015 and love them!

petevette

iTrader: (13)

+1 on ACE or AE 1015. Awesome servos. I just bought the new Ofna box with twin 750 motors. So far so good. Seems real strong with the 12v battery, kind of heavy but seems like it has tons of power. I can always switch out to Lipo if the weight becomes an issue.