Yokomo YZ-2
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#692
There is nothing to be gained by pucks. Besides, with the materials yokomo uses the out drives and axles last considerably longer than the puck system. Local TLR driver has them in his 22 and is wearing the out drives faster than the pucks, the material is way too soft.
My B-max2 out drives and axles had a year's worth of racing on them, and the only thing you could tell was worn is the pin in the out drive end of the axle had a small flat, and the out drives looked new other than the black was worn off.
With the correct materials, they last a long time. Besides, you can buy TWO entire sets of axles for the cost of one puck system.
If they made aluminum, you could argue a slight weight savings, but there isn't enough there to go after IMO ( and yes I understand it is rotating weight ).
Besides the MIP system uses the plastic rings to hold the cross pins in the CVA, a design that is notorious for failing.
IMO the yokomo drive shafts, axles, and CVAs are the longest lasting, best quality in the business.
My B-max2 out drives and axles had a year's worth of racing on them, and the only thing you could tell was worn is the pin in the out drive end of the axle had a small flat, and the out drives looked new other than the black was worn off.
With the correct materials, they last a long time. Besides, you can buy TWO entire sets of axles for the cost of one puck system.
If they made aluminum, you could argue a slight weight savings, but there isn't enough there to go after IMO ( and yes I understand it is rotating weight ).
Besides the MIP system uses the plastic rings to hold the cross pins in the CVA, a design that is notorious for failing.
IMO the yokomo drive shafts, axles, and CVAs are the longest lasting, best quality in the business.
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
#693
#694
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Gear diffs in 1/10th applications require constant fluid changes and care. My last ball diff lasted 4 months without ever being touched, and was buttery smooth for the entire time. A friend that was running a gear diff kept having to change fluid to keep the diff action consistent from day to day.
#695
Tech Adept
I wouldn't call a gear diff lower maintenance for 1/10th 2wd than a ball diff.
Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.
I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.
Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.
4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.
I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.
I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.
Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.
4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.
I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
#696
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Won't argue with you about the quality of Yokomo since I haven't bought one yet but I will say in my b5m the weight savings in the rotating mass is a huge improvement on how snappy my car drives, to say that the weight savings isn't worth it is imo not very accurate at all from a 17.5 racer point of view. Now for mod i can't see the value at all in the shiny pucks
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
. Also with proper maintenance the orange pucks are not an issue
In comparison to when I raced road bikes, when I went to BST wheels on my R6 I would gain more acceleration and top end, this was only paired with the ease of the bike's handling when flipping it back and forth through corners. I worked way less with the BST and could ride harder longer than I could with the stock aluminum wheels. This is why stock drivers seek out parts like this.
#698
Tech Regular
I wouldn't call a gear diff lower maintenance for 1/10th 2wd than a ball diff.
Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.
I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.
Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.
4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.
I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
Just buy a set of grounded diff plates, Bfast or TKO come to mind, some good carbide diffs balls and ceramic thrust balls (personal choice).
Use good grease, with the proper amount.
A good break up and a careful first run and you will have a great smooth diff for months. I would have to at least refill a gear diff way before that.
I still prefer a ball diff for 2wd, maybe a bit less flashy on the track but more stable. Lots of people talk about tires and setups but a good well setup diff is for me the first thing to watch for on a 2wd.
For training I keep the gear diff as wear is almost null.
Carbide balls favor a loose setting, low to medium grip. If tightens too much it will become gritty pretty fast.
If I have to run on high to very high grip I would use ceramic diff balls. Such diff need to be tighten quite a bit to stop slipping but will be smooth for a while at that setting, you will go through diff plate as they will wear more quickly.
I like a gear diff on high grip.
4wd is another story, maintaining 2 balls diffs In good shape is a hard task and I find those less sensible than 2wd to gear diffs diffing out.
I got issues with ball diffs until I tried grounded perfectly flat diff rings and good balls. Night and day.
#700
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I am about done building the car and I have to say this is probably the nicest 1:10 scale car I have ever built.
There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
#701
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
I am about done building the car and I have to say this is probably the nicest 1:10 scale car I have ever built.
There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
There is one issue with the car that I don't like. The front bumper doesn't sit flat on the chassis. And the part that is supposed to hold the front inner hinge pins in is bowing away from them and doesn't sit flush against the retainer. I can see this breaking or flexing enough to loose that part.
#703
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
This car is the real deal. Came up short of winning the 40+ 17.5 class but that was my fault not the car. Buggy was stuck and so easy to drive. Stayed with my setup posted on Petit with two changes. Went with Kyosho spring gold front and white rear and laid the rear shocks all the way down. I was up against all the B5's and puck systems. I wasn't down on power by any means. Can't wait to run this car again.