Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Kick-up and antisquat really only help the car in corner entry and exit. Although you will have more on-power exit steering with less antisquat or less kickup since both allow more weight to be transferred to the rear of the car when you get on the gas.

Toe is another good thing to try if you are scrubbing speed.

fatdoggy

seaball - Your probably right about the caster, all I know was it's in the uppermost position(all the clips on the back side of the suspension arm. I'll try caster first since like you said, it is easy. Thanks for the info on the super front oneway.

Cole Trickle - Thanks I'll take you up on your offer , I'll post my diff sizes on here soon. Antisquat is set at 3 degrees(non-adjustable) and I don't think kick-up is adjustable.

Axiom5B - If you had more weight transfer to the rear wouldn't you have less on-power steering?

Cheers.

P.s. - I'll try zero rear toe and see how it goes.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Oops i meant less weight transferred to the rear.

ZER01

Another option to gain on-power steering is to "overdrive" the car. The Losi XXX-S has this feature with using a smaller diff pulley for the front diff.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

antisquat does just that to the rear of the car. it keeps the chassis flatter upon forward accelleration. it should cause the weight to transfer quicker as the weight is not fully transferred until the car stops squatting. we're talking milliseconds here, but important nonetheless. since antisquat aids in minimizing the distance the rear travels down, it will also cut the time down as well, given the same stiffness in the rear.

... all this adds to ...

more on power steering as the dynamic stiffness of the rear is increased by the added angle of the hingpins. that's what is so fun about all these alignments. while changing springs/oil will affect the entire range of corner handling, the anti/pro squat will only modify the section under de/accelleration. lateral stiffness should remain nearly unaffected.

under/over drive is also a great way to get more/less steering, but a larger front rollout makes off power turn in feel sluggish. just like a spool or locked front diff. maybe that's not a bad trade. i dunno. good idea though.

sosidge

fatdoggy - one thing i noticed you say is that you're running zero droop (i.e. the wheels leave the ground the moment you lift the car from it's ride height).

Zero droop is bad, it'll make the car very nervous, with a sensation of no grip. Dial in at least a couple of mm all round, maybe more if your track is bumpy.

Cole Trickle

Yep, zero droop is bad. However, I'm as low as 1 millimeter in the front, it works good for me.

fatdoggy

sosidge - The front wheels lift right off but the rears don't. I'll add droop to my list of changes. My car dosn't feel nervous though...

Cole Trickle

If the front wheels lift of, the diff unload and you loose power.

A one-way diff prevent this. But droop will also help.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Yes if you're front lifts off, you are losing some serious steering there because the power is not being put down. Add a mm or two more of droop in the front.

fatdoggy

I just check my shocks and I do have about 1mm of droop but it's set by the shocks and not by the droop screws. I also adjusted the shocks so that they don't lift strait off in the front.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

I also noticed you said your diffs where "locked down"? am assuming you mean very tight, thy loosening them up a bit and keep the front about 1/16-1/8th turn tighter...... whichever diff is tighter will have more on-power traction......

fatdoggy

I've got both of them only just tight enough so they don't slip. I've got the rear diff out right now measuring it for cole so I'll loosen it a bit.

Thanks.

fatdoggy

Cole Trickle - The diff measurements are in the attachment. Sorry it looks a little ghetto.

Thanks for the help.

P.s. I won't be getting the one-way for a few weeks so I don't need the sizes strait away.

fatdoggy

Diff picture with measurements.