759LikesMugen MTC1
03-13-2018, 09:34 AM - Wikipost
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Mugen MTC1 Wiki:
MTC1 Manual on the Mugen Web Site. Correction for the manual   The max/min tooth count of the spur and pinion combined. 64p = 127 to 164 total teeth  48p = 95 to 120 total teeth  People who have spare spur gears left over from other cars which they wish to use but can only utilize 2 of the 4 mounting holes, here's neat trick from MKAH to drill 2 more holes precisely in the spur gear: 1.Dismantle the Spur Holder and mount XRAY Spur with two screws.  2.If you have take a 3mm Top Setting Screw  3.Get the Top Screw in the first free thread to the Spur Holder from the other side until it touches the Spur a litle bit. Make the same with the second free Thread.  4.Dismantle Top set Srew an the two screws witch holds the Spur on the Holder. Now you see two marks absolutely central.  5. Take an 3mm Driller an Drill the holes at the marked places  6.Mount the Spur with the two old and two new holes on the Spur.  Spur Gears known to fit the gear holder with the correct hole pattern 1. Axon 2. Panaracer Upper front arm hinge pin set screw tip (or any of the kit set screws): When installing the set screw run the set screw in until you can see it come into the hinge pin gap. Back the screw out and make sure there is no flashing in the way and then the screw. Now slide the pin in and you should hit the pin and come to a dead stop. It will be a solid feel and not sloppy like it will not tighten which is caused by any loose plastic. Hara's Setup  Robert Pietsch's Latest Carpet Setup 
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11-09-2017, 06:51 AM
#1081
Tech Adept
2 major issues of this car:
1. Diff gear is not durable. Last like only 30 packs of battery on mod
2. Diff is too tight. Fill in 2000, feels like 5000.
- Needs metal spool outdrive
Other then that, car is fine.
1. Diff gear is not durable. Last like only 30 packs of battery on mod
2. Diff is too tight. Fill in 2000, feels like 5000.
- Needs metal spool outdrive
Other then that, car is fine.
11-09-2017, 12:49 PM
#1083
I did not and I haven't seen any mention of it in the MTC1 facebook group. It doesn't take much of an imperfection to cause a bearing to not seat properly and cause this issue though. One little tiny fleck of machining debris or a missing chamfer on a bearing. I bet there is something... maybe flashing interfering with the bushing. Measure the length of both bushings too.
11-13-2017, 07:56 AM
#1084
Checking out my car last night, I have to say that my MTC1 has the smoothest steering of any car I have ever built. It's incredibly free. A light breeze could turn the wheels. I think the Mugen chrome ball ends contribute to this excellent performance - it's more than just the front micro hubs.
11-14-2017, 09:58 AM
#1089
Despite the overwhelming awesomeness of this car, I will complain about the Mugen MTC1 fan mount. It's a major PITA to install and my WTF Windy won't fit (hits the chassis)! I can still make it work by using only one screw and tilting the mount but when everything else is so perfect it's a real bummer. You are probably better off with double sided tape. Oh and I've had 2 brand new WTF Windy's fail already on my T4'17, one before it even hit the track, so maybe this is a sign 
11-14-2017, 03:21 PM
#1090
Despite the overwhelming awesomeness of this car, I will complain about the Mugen MTC1 fan mount. It's a major PITA to install and my WTF Windy won't fit (hits the chassis)! I can still make it work by using only one screw and tilting the mount but when everything else is so perfect it's a real bummer. You are probably better off with double sided tape. Oh and I've had 2 brand new WTF Windy's fail already on my T4'17, one before it even hit the track, so maybe this is a sign
11-14-2017, 04:59 PM
#1091
How about some setup talk?
7075.it chassis : I have been going back and forth with the Mugen solid and stock flex upper decks. This is on CRC black carpet. The solid upper deck seems too stiff to me, as it kills some of the steering in 21.5/USGT class. I also tried raising the solid upper deck 1mm per the latest Pietsch setup, which was better, but still not what I wanted. Taking screws out of the bottom of the chassis seems to help, but it's not drastic or largely noticeable. Probably more a fine tuning deal.
I like the flex upper deck, but I'm not sure if it is may flex a little too much mid corner. A lot of cars have a thinner top deck for AL chassis (Xray 1.6 mm vs. 2mm for example). Might be what's needed here
Diff height: Again looking at the Pietsch setup, I raised the diffs. I did rear first then front. It definitely gets the car out of the track, and makes the car feel easier to drive. I got some improvement in lap time, but I'm not sure if it was more down to making the car less of a handful than actual improvement in the suspension, or making the car more "free". I can imagine the car is really good outdoor or on low traction with diffs low.
Camber link heights: There has been some Facebook posts calling for raising links 4mm or so on the inside , and the Pietsch setup generally concurs with this. I had already raised the outer front 1mm, and the rear 3.5mm. I'm not exactly sure what they were after here. I'm imagining it's to stop the camber gain, since previous posts here have called for higher roll centers, especially in the back of the car. If my foggy brain is correct, raising the links like this will let the roll center migrate side to side more? Even with raising the hinge pins??
Maybe this is more tire sensitive as well, the USGT tires are pretty hard, so it may have not been optimal for what I'm doing. I think I may have liked the links lower for that tire. I think I need to play around more
I also moved the camber link to the outside hole on the hub, and added spacers to the bulkhead to keep the link close to the same length. I think this may be better for slower classes. I went back and forth on the hub hole, keeping the link close as possible on length and I liked the outside hole better. The car seemed to roll a little less, maybe squared up better..?
7075.it chassis : I have been going back and forth with the Mugen solid and stock flex upper decks. This is on CRC black carpet. The solid upper deck seems too stiff to me, as it kills some of the steering in 21.5/USGT class. I also tried raising the solid upper deck 1mm per the latest Pietsch setup, which was better, but still not what I wanted. Taking screws out of the bottom of the chassis seems to help, but it's not drastic or largely noticeable. Probably more a fine tuning deal.
I like the flex upper deck, but I'm not sure if it is may flex a little too much mid corner. A lot of cars have a thinner top deck for AL chassis (Xray 1.6 mm vs. 2mm for example). Might be what's needed here
Diff height: Again looking at the Pietsch setup, I raised the diffs. I did rear first then front. It definitely gets the car out of the track, and makes the car feel easier to drive. I got some improvement in lap time, but I'm not sure if it was more down to making the car less of a handful than actual improvement in the suspension, or making the car more "free". I can imagine the car is really good outdoor or on low traction with diffs low.
Camber link heights: There has been some Facebook posts calling for raising links 4mm or so on the inside , and the Pietsch setup generally concurs with this. I had already raised the outer front 1mm, and the rear 3.5mm. I'm not exactly sure what they were after here. I'm imagining it's to stop the camber gain, since previous posts here have called for higher roll centers, especially in the back of the car. If my foggy brain is correct, raising the links like this will let the roll center migrate side to side more? Even with raising the hinge pins??
Maybe this is more tire sensitive as well, the USGT tires are pretty hard, so it may have not been optimal for what I'm doing. I think I may have liked the links lower for that tire. I think I need to play around more
I also moved the camber link to the outside hole on the hub, and added spacers to the bulkhead to keep the link close to the same length. I think this may be better for slower classes. I went back and forth on the hub hole, keeping the link close as possible on length and I liked the outside hole better. The car seemed to roll a little less, maybe squared up better..?
11-14-2017, 06:34 PM
#1093
Despite the overwhelming awesomeness of this car, I will complain about the Mugen MTC1 fan mount. It's a major PITA to install and my WTF Windy won't fit (hits the chassis)! I can still make it work by using only one screw and tilting the mount but when everything else is so perfect it's a real bummer. You are probably better off with double sided tape. Oh and I've had 2 brand new WTF Windy's fail already on my T4'17, one before it even hit the track, so maybe this is a sign
It fits just have to do a lil sanding
11-14-2017, 06:40 PM
#1094
robk, have you played with toe out at the inner hinge pin in the front? That along with anti-dive seemed to make my steering very predictable without loosing any. I have not tried the 7075.it chassis, got one on the way, but the fenix chassis seems to have almost as much traction as the graphite stock chassis. That chassis with the solid upper deck made the car feel super planted but not stuck in the carpet. The car didn't lift in the corners at all. I am running glue on the front tires (Gravity tires) around 58.5mm so that played a big part. If you don't mind me asking what tires and body were you running? Also, did you try lengthening your wheelbase like Pietsch does in his last setup, how did it make the car feel?
11-14-2017, 08:25 PM
#1095
robk, have you played with toe out at the inner hinge pin in the front? That along with anti-dive seemed to make my steering very predictable without loosing any. I have not tried the 7075.it chassis, got one on the way, but the fenix chassis seems to have almost as much traction as the graphite stock chassis. That chassis with the solid upper deck made the car feel super planted but not stuck in the carpet. The car didn't lift in the corners at all. I am running glue on the front tires (Gravity tires) around 58.5mm so that played a big part. If you don't mind me asking what tires and body were you running? Also, did you try lengthening your wheelbase like Pietsch does in his last setup, how did it make the car feel?
I didn't lengthen the car either. I have been doing the changes one at a time to try to feel things out.
I use the Exotek P Zero in USGT, with the Gravity USGT tire.