MBX5
03-06-2007, 09:48 PM
#1126
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I have a few more questions. (Still have a lot to learn 
)
-What about running multiple brake disks on both the front and rear? I've seen a few cars that are running 2 disks on both sides. (1 pad between the two disks obviously) Are they doing this for more braking power or to keep the brakes from fading toward the end of a main?
-Are the blue springs heavier or softer than the gray? I've seen the blue springs marked as medium and soft on different sites.
-Should I be running my clutch bearings dry or lubed? I've been told both ways. Dry makes since to keep anything from getting on the clutch shoes and causing slipping, but I've destroyed 2 clutch bearings (In only 5 full days at the track) and have to believe it's from them getting too hot from being run dry.
-What's the main difference between the turbo and standard head for the Ninja motor? When would you use one over the other?
-Does anyone use the carburetor restrictors in the Ninja motor? Would you run a smaller restrictors on a smaller, tighter track and a large one on a bigger wide open track? What comes with the motor standard?
Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions.
) -What about running multiple brake disks on both the front and rear? I've seen a few cars that are running 2 disks on both sides. (1 pad between the two disks obviously) Are they doing this for more braking power or to keep the brakes from fading toward the end of a main?
-Are the blue springs heavier or softer than the gray? I've seen the blue springs marked as medium and soft on different sites.
-Should I be running my clutch bearings dry or lubed? I've been told both ways. Dry makes since to keep anything from getting on the clutch shoes and causing slipping, but I've destroyed 2 clutch bearings (In only 5 full days at the track) and have to believe it's from them getting too hot from being run dry.
-What's the main difference between the turbo and standard head for the Ninja motor? When would you use one over the other?
-Does anyone use the carburetor restrictors in the Ninja motor? Would you run a smaller restrictors on a smaller, tighter track and a large one on a bigger wide open track? What comes with the motor standard?
Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions.
The Mugen springs from softest to stiffest:
Light Blue, Gray, White, Red (MBX5T)
I run Avid RC's 5x10mm metal-shielded clutch bell bearings ($1 a piece. I just buy a sleeve of 20 at a clip). I simply hold the bearing in a rag and hit it with the air compressor for a few seconds. This blows out the extra grease so it doesn't end up all over your clutch bell.
Turbo plugs run better but also cost more. They are all I run now.
The Ninja website lists the 7.5mm restrictor as the stock venturi on the .21 off-road motor, but every B01 has a 7mm venturi in it. Not sure if they changed that with the B01A. I ran the Ninja 2053 pipe and long header on my .21 Ninja B01 in both my MBX5 and MBX5T. The run times are insane and I was very happy with teh performance. But after I took the motor up to EB Mods for a little dyno session, the Novarossi 9853 with short header (the one with two bends in it) had the best power curve and made more peak Hp and RPM's. The MSR1005 pipe & header made the most peak Hp, but the power curve was not as clean.
Best regards,
03-06-2007, 10:00 PM
#1127
Originally Posted by celt
Hey guys, thinking of getting an MXB5-R but not sure I want to wait - back ordered everywhere.
Other than the usual bling, what what I be giving up going with the MXB5?
Is the geomeytry the same? Shocks the same? Chassis layout and dimensions? All might add would be a one piece motor mount.
Any thoughts?
Other than the usual bling, what what I be giving up going with the MXB5?
Is the geomeytry the same? Shocks the same? Chassis layout and dimensions? All might add would be a one piece motor mount.
Any thoughts?
03-07-2007, 03:57 AM
#1128
Originally Posted by TonysScrews
Jon Martin at Carolina's RC offers a complete MBX5R conversion kit for guys that want to convert the old car to the new R. If you check out the kit, you'll get a good idea of how many parts changed. It's quite extensive. But with that said, the old car is still a great buggy. Scott Hughes ran the old MBX5 ProSpec at SilverState last year on a totally blown out track and TQ'd every round and won the main. None of the other cars/drivers could touch him. Every other car out today with the exception of the Losi 8ight and not available AE RC8 is still the same car. The biggest change they made is the MBX5T shocks. They are longer but more importantly have a threaded end on the shock body for teh seals. This replaces the c-clip on the old shocks. The new threaded end supports the seals better so they last a long time. On the old shocks the seals would get wallowed out fast and then the oil would get contaminated. Many of the other changes are running changes that you can do on the old car with a little patience and a dremel. But if you want to run the new shocks you have to at least get the shock towers and upper front arms. The old F&R lower arms and chassis can be dremeled to work.
Thanks, that makes things clear.
Was I hallucinating or was the "R" available at most dealers and then dissapeared / backordered? Is this due to a new season starting or something else?
03-07-2007, 10:32 AM
#1129
alright guys,
Has anyone had any experiences with the Lotta Balls pivot balls on their Mugen? Im a little nervous of their integrity.
anybody got any of Chad's Balls they aren't using?
Has anyone had any experiences with the Lotta Balls pivot balls on their Mugen? Im a little nervous of their integrity.
anybody got any of Chad's Balls they aren't using?
03-07-2007, 10:50 AM
#1130
Originally Posted by J.Wright
nobike I am useing 5-7-2 and am tiking to 5k in the center diff rather then 7k what do you think?
Jim
Jim
03-07-2007, 11:53 AM
#1131
try 3k in the rear first, what tires are you using? and you are trying to get your car dialed for REV?
Jim
03-07-2007, 05:29 PM
#1133
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Speaking of droop, I've been wondering how you guys measure your droop? In on road, we use what I call "True Droop." I measure the ride height, then lift that end of the car until the tires just come off the table and measure it again. The difference is your droop. (5mm ride height, lift up the back of the car until the tires just lift off and measure it in the same spot and it's 8mm, you have 3mm of droop.) We do this so that we get consistent droop measurement. If you raise your ride height and don't add droop, you're actually taking droop away too. But by measuring droop on a static gauge (like described in the manual) it's not taking ride height, pivot block height, etc.. into account. Also if your spot on the suspension arm where you're supposed to measure from is damaged or scraped, that'll throw off your measurement as well. Does anyone in off road use the method I use in off road or is it just not that big of an issue?
03-07-2007, 05:34 PM
#1134
Originally Posted by J.Wright
Yeah I am working on my Rev setup. I'll try 3k in the rear Thursday night. I am using the Noline crime fighters right now but will be doing some tire testing on Thursday as well. Are you going for the practice tomorrow night? Thanks for the help.
Jim
Jim
03-07-2007, 05:36 PM
#1135
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Just thought I'd bring this back up. Not sure anyone really answered my question about how most of you measure your droop.
03-07-2007, 05:37 PM
#1136
like the losi 8 people do..............
03-07-2007, 07:06 PM
#1137
starter box help
anyone using the dynamite torque starter? looks like the wheel is way to big to fit into chassis opening. smaller wheel? i really dont want to cut on chassis. thanks for any help
03-07-2007, 07:20 PM
#1138
yeah i will be there tomorow, the only tires that work there are proline M3's tires if you are using M2's your rear end will be all over the place, see you there tomorow..........................
See you there.
Jim
03-07-2007, 09:26 PM
#1139
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Just thought I'd bring this back up. Not sure anyone really answered my question about how most of you measure your droop.
the way mugen does it, at least when I had mine, was to set the car on 2 tires and use some type of a measuring device, like a hudy "off road" droop gauge or something.
I think more and more people are going to the overall shock length thing like losi has done with the 8ight.
I use a proline droop gauge that works pretty good for me, it works just like the ones supplied with touring car kits these days.
03-08-2007, 12:52 PM
#1140
Hi Guys,
Well I got my new Mugen teflon coated servo saver tubes for my MBX5R
and MBX5T. They look dialed!
But I also got tubes for my old cars that I was going to convert to the new servo-saver system. But I sold my two old MBX5's and MSR and don't need these tubes anymore. So if anyone is looking for the new teflon coated servo saver tubes, I have a few that I'm selling.
I also have the new 4mm plastic steering end lonks and 7mm ball studs too. All you would need is the 4mm turnbuckles (Mugen has them in steel or titanium and Lunsford sells them in titanium too).
If interested, drop me an email at [email protected]
I suspect these teflon coated tubes will go fast.
Thanks and best regards,
Well I got my new Mugen teflon coated servo saver tubes for my MBX5R
and MBX5T. They look dialed!
But I also got tubes for my old cars that I was going to convert to the new servo-saver system. But I sold my two old MBX5's and MSR and don't need these tubes anymore. So if anyone is looking for the new teflon coated servo saver tubes, I have a few that I'm selling.
I also have the new 4mm plastic steering end lonks and 7mm ball studs too. All you would need is the 4mm turnbuckles (Mugen has them in steel or titanium and Lunsford sells them in titanium too).
If interested, drop me an email at [email protected]
I suspect these teflon coated tubes will go fast.
Thanks and best regards,