Dragon

if the cars wander to the right during high acceleration due to the shaft being bias to roll to the right, wont the stabalizers prevent that from happening?...some people even call it anti-roll bars right?

i wonder if i can get the front stabalizers of the evo2 to fit on my evo 1....hmmmm....

Potato

I don't know if stabilizers will help... you can't eliminate the shaft torque. There will always be a larger force on one side than the other created by the shaft during acceleration or deceleration. Stabilizers are meant for reducing body roll, not really for counteracting the shaft torque.

TRF-Powered

Hobbipro,

How much did you pay for your EVo 2 shipping all the way from Hong Kong?

i am thinking getting an EVO2 too. However as a owner of Evo1, I am really worried about the ball diff come with any Evo. The diff has been a pain to get to. and it is so hard to get it just right. Does Evo 2 has the same problem?

The problem I have with the ball diff is that it's hard to get it just right. It's either too tight that locks up the rear when let go the throttle, or too loose. But once get it right it seems to be very smooth. but tearing the whole car down just to fix a diff is really annoying job.

imataquito

dragon .....
try using harder springs and harder damping so the torque of the shaft wont effect ur car ... or make the effect slower / less noticable or alltogether elimating it

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

TRF, I ordered my EVO II from stellamodels in HK. I found him on Ebay. HE sells them for $245 + $28 S&H, Not a bad price at all seeing as tower is going to sell it for $489 once it hits the states. It took 7 days to reach me via air mail. Good service if you ask me. If you want to see if he has any type in "Tamiya Evolution" on ebays item bar.
Secondly, yes the ball diff is almost impossible to get to once its in the car. The key is to get it adjusted right before you stick it in the car. I have built many cars over the years, and have a good feel for adjusting a diff. Simply take 2 allen keys or something to hold both outdrives, and try to turn the diff gear while holding on tightly. The gear should not be able to turn whatsoever! I played with the EVO diff for hours to find a good set point, and 1/4 turn from all the way tight works good. Especially if your using a hot mod like I am. Anything over 1/2 turn from tight, and it starts to slip. So basically no more than 1/2 turn. Dont worry if it feels notchy at first, after a few runs it breaks in and feels nice and free.
I ordered a front ball diff today, so we shall see next week how it runs. I've never been a fan of front one-ways in my other cars since my tracks are outside on asphault, and not always the cleanest.

Dragon

this shaft torque, does it also affect the TC3, MTR4TC or other shaft cars? do they have anything special on them to fix it?

Potato

I believe the MR4 is belt drive, and I think the TC3 has asymmetric suspension parts to supposedly counteract the forces. I'm not sure how effective it is, since I don't own one myself.

Dragon

OMG...whats Asymmetric suspension?...anywhere i can look it up?

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

Dragon, The TC3 has the same torque effect. A friend of mine had one that I was able to drive on a few occasions. While it handled great it still had that little tedency bias to the right. He now has jumped to the schumacher mission, and I must say it is much nicer than his TC3 was.
I had a Yokomo MR4- Special a few months ago, it is belt drive, so no torque bias on that one. The only other cars to have a shaft are the MRC cars.

TRF-Powered

Hey Hobbipro,

1/4 is exactly what I use now. just like you said, it locks a little at first, but is super smooth now.

Also, Does Evo 2 still use +2 offset wheels?

Yeah I saw stellamodels on Ebay too. the price is really good.

by the way, does it come shrink-wrapped?

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

No, the box was not shrink wrapped. I'm not sure if it was supposed to be. It came in a small "suitcase" sized box, with the real nice handle that you have to push flat to get the top to open. Kinda of an interlocking thing.
The wheels are 0 offset. And I believe the tires are "B" compound, but not 100% sure. They are hooked up, and are wearing extremely well.
I'm running a Tamiya Modena 360 body, and have no cracks in it yet, which I'm very happy about as I have tapped a few things already Most other bodys would have cracked around the front wheel area already.

Dragon

i just some testing on my evo1 today for this torque problem, and the results wasnt what i expected......

at full speed, the car was perfectly straight....
it only veered slightly about 1-2 degrees to the right durig a sharp acceleration....
but if i pull on the trigger with a steady acceleration, the car veers a tiny little bit to the right.....

and hell i forgot to try if braking causes the car to veer left.....

and the worst part of the test was when a small tiny little stone got to my gears, and GGRrRrrRRrrr....now my 2 weeks old duralu pinion is totally and i mean TOTALLY bald.... ....crap $16 down the hole....

andyroos

hey guys, i have also had a bit of trouble my ball diff on my evo1...when you say 1/4 turn from tight, does that mean tightening the screw that holds the ball diff all the way down until it is tight and then turn out from that? or do you mean tight as in when you can move the gear when you hold the two outdrives with some allen wrenches? i tried tightening it alot once and then my diff got all notchy so i thought i put some dents in the balls, but if you say the notchiness will disappear, ill give it a try again and really break it in this time......thanks

imataquito

hm .. did u set ur soo stiff that it hard to press down ???
try that and try again

Dragon

dent the balls?...doesent that like spoil the diff?