Tamiya mini cooper
#8176
Here is one for you Tony!
I bought the short springs 56630-56631=56632 for my friction shocks but they are too short, should I put the original springs (chrome) back ?
Are those short springs only for the super mini oil shocks?
Plus if I follow your friction shocks build-up, when I put the o-rings on the shaft it is hard to put them in the black tube, am I using the wrong ones? I am using the same ones that go in the outdrives.
Sorry to boughter you again but it is my first mini
Thanks
Starteur
I bought the short springs 56630-56631=56632 for my friction shocks but they are too short, should I put the original springs (chrome) back ?
Are those short springs only for the super mini oil shocks?
Plus if I follow your friction shocks build-up, when I put the o-rings on the shaft it is hard to put them in the black tube, am I using the wrong ones? I am using the same ones that go in the outdrives.
Sorry to boughter you again but it is my first mini
Thanks
Starteur
Last edited by Starteur; 01-23-2009 at 08:59 PM. Reason: added text
#8177
Starteur,
You will need to use a little force to get the shock retainer on. The spring also needs to be squashed firmly.
For the short springs you can use external spacers to fit around the shock which will give more ride height.
However you want your mini to sit about 5mm measured from the front and 5/6mm at the rear. All the shocks I have built with the fuel tube and fitted with the shorter springs have not required external spacers.
Regards,
Calvin.
You will need to use a little force to get the shock retainer on. The spring also needs to be squashed firmly.
For the short springs you can use external spacers to fit around the shock which will give more ride height.
However you want your mini to sit about 5mm measured from the front and 5/6mm at the rear. All the shocks I have built with the fuel tube and fitted with the shorter springs have not required external spacers.
Regards,
Calvin.
#8178
Tech Elite
#8179
datsun body shells
just wondering if any body has used a datsun 1200 or 1600 body shell on a mini & how do they fit? would love to try one but would like it to sit low.
#8180
Thanks Calvin,
There are a few things that still need answering, what's the spring lenght I should be using for friction shocks?
Also the o-rings from the output shafts , are they the good size to put in those shocks inside the black tube? Because it jams inside even if I put oil in it, I have to fight my way in, is that normal?
I am new at this, I bought a used M03L and before I invest in oil shocks, unis,turnbuckles etc... I want to ''feel'' what it is to drive a mini first because I never tried one before, then if I get the itch I will buy whatever is needed to race that mini.
Best regards
Starteur
There are a few things that still need answering, what's the spring lenght I should be using for friction shocks?
Also the o-rings from the output shafts , are they the good size to put in those shocks inside the black tube? Because it jams inside even if I put oil in it, I have to fight my way in, is that normal?
I am new at this, I bought a used M03L and before I invest in oil shocks, unis,turnbuckles etc... I want to ''feel'' what it is to drive a mini first because I never tried one before, then if I get the itch I will buy whatever is needed to race that mini.
Best regards
Starteur
#8181
Starteur,
You can use either the o rings, 4 or 5 in each shock or 5mm of fuel line. As Tony stated you need to ensure that you put grease on the inside of the black rubber tube otherwise it does not slide properly. The tube can be cut shorter as stated in a previous post. 8mm front and rear. The o rings do not have to be black, they can be orange etc, just as long as they are the same thickness. You can still use the standard spring that came with the kit.
The other springs you have are the short TRF springs. Tamiya part number 53333 spring set will still work with your modified shocks.
The standard springs will work, however the ride height is still a tad high. All of those that I have performed this modification for have been pleased with the results. The main thing is to use plenty of grease. The same grease you get in the kit.
These shocks will not be as good as oil shocks, but can be made to work well. If you really want them to hook up, then you need to measure the springs so you can match them. Now we are into another dimension.
Far easier to get the super mini cva shocks.
Regards,
Calvin.
You can use either the o rings, 4 or 5 in each shock or 5mm of fuel line. As Tony stated you need to ensure that you put grease on the inside of the black rubber tube otherwise it does not slide properly. The tube can be cut shorter as stated in a previous post. 8mm front and rear. The o rings do not have to be black, they can be orange etc, just as long as they are the same thickness. You can still use the standard spring that came with the kit.
The other springs you have are the short TRF springs. Tamiya part number 53333 spring set will still work with your modified shocks.
The standard springs will work, however the ride height is still a tad high. All of those that I have performed this modification for have been pleased with the results. The main thing is to use plenty of grease. The same grease you get in the kit.
These shocks will not be as good as oil shocks, but can be made to work well. If you really want them to hook up, then you need to measure the springs so you can match them. Now we are into another dimension.
Far easier to get the super mini cva shocks.
Regards,
Calvin.
#8182
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Yay, Cal's answering everything and I don't have to....
#8183
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
#8184
Tech Initiate
4_cell_racer,
Depends on which MO3 kit you have.
The original MO3 kit came with zero degree rear hubs. The latest kits swift and MO3S Cooper 2006 come with two degree rear hubs standard. These are both plastic mouldings.
Dependant on track I run either o degree or 1.5 degree rear toe.
Tamiya B parts Part Number 50736 This is the zero degree hub and uses 1150 wheel bearing.
Regards,
Calvin.
Depends on which MO3 kit you have.
The original MO3 kit came with zero degree rear hubs. The latest kits swift and MO3S Cooper 2006 come with two degree rear hubs standard. These are both plastic mouldings.
Dependant on track I run either o degree or 1.5 degree rear toe.
Tamiya B parts Part Number 50736 This is the zero degree hub and uses 1150 wheel bearing.
Regards,
Calvin.
I think I have the original M03 (Rover Mini Ie the proper Mini )
I've not heard of the M03S....I thought there was M03, M03M (M03R) & M03L
Not too bother about alloy bits as we are trying to keep this a CHEAP formula
My Mini seems to handle OK with the standard rear hubs, racing on carpet with foams
Thaks once again
#8185
4_cell_racer,
The MO3S is the latest version of the MO3L. Difference from the original MO3L is that the revised front and rear hubs are included with the kit and the latest MO3L body 2006S mini cooper.
The zero degree hubs do not have any marks on them and take a 1150 bearing. The revised two degree rear hubs take a 1050 wheel bearing.
There is a replacement Tamiya Part number TL01/MO3 Toe in rear upright which is two degrees available. This also takes a 1150 wheeel bearing.
The rear toe in will make your car more stable and less tail happy.
Regards,
Calvin.
The MO3S is the latest version of the MO3L. Difference from the original MO3L is that the revised front and rear hubs are included with the kit and the latest MO3L body 2006S mini cooper.
The zero degree hubs do not have any marks on them and take a 1150 bearing. The revised two degree rear hubs take a 1050 wheel bearing.
There is a replacement Tamiya Part number TL01/MO3 Toe in rear upright which is two degrees available. This also takes a 1150 wheeel bearing.
The rear toe in will make your car more stable and less tail happy.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 01-24-2009 at 03:40 PM. Reason: text
#8186
Tech Master
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
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30 min??
#8187
Looks like it doesn't have cavities to add weight like the 3200... wonder how will the weight addition will change?
#8188
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
Stocker,
I have one of these packs and we have tested with it. You can squeeze a sheet of lead on top of the pack and still fit it into the battery hole in the chassis. We put the lead inside the chassis (100g) to make up for that lost in the lipo cavities.
And as for track testing ... well .... these packs fly!!!!!!!
I have one of these packs and we have tested with it. You can squeeze a sheet of lead on top of the pack and still fit it into the battery hole in the chassis. We put the lead inside the chassis (100g) to make up for that lost in the lipo cavities.
And as for track testing ... well .... these packs fly!!!!!!!
#8189
Where did you put the rets of the 100g? Using the 3200s, my m03 seem to need the weight to be in the battery cavity to handle well, if I put the weight on top of the chassis or the back of the car, the steering seems to become very twitchy and the back loose.