Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

increasing the angle of the rear links should take traction away at mid to exit.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Why do you suggest no ECS's? What is different from those outdrives and what comes with the gear diff?

OVA

iTrader: (86)

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OVA

iTrader: (86)

If you put in the gear diff or ball diff in the front ,the front axles will not chatter went your turn hard..but you need the dogbone blade for the gear diff or ball diff just like in the rear diff...

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

ahh okay thank you.

Skiddins

Did you try a spool instead of the front diff?
I run 13.5 boosted and tried a gear diff, it made the car more stable and smoother to drive but lacked traction out of corners. Running Mod on the same track it worked great, as I needed the extra stability on the brakes etc.

So for me, stock = spool, Mod = Front Diff

Did you also try less rear toe?

esckalayd

iTrader: (11)

I haven't seen or heard of any chatter when i take corners hard. The car isn't losing corner speed b/c of the stock shafts. If you want to spend the money on them, feel free, just saying isn't worth the $40 a shaft for me

esckalayd

iTrader: (11)

I didn't care for the spool, the 2.5M diff worked better for me at this track. I should have knocked toe down a bit, but it gave the car stability since i was running a real aggressive setup with hard springs and a shorten wheelbase

Skiddins

Interesting.

I found I gained better initial steering with less rear toe, might allow you be be slightly less aggressive in other parts of the setup.

Will be trying your wheelbase changes etc next time out, but I will be running modified, so it will be interesting to see it's effect.

chasingthepack

i had similar problems you describe and have almost eliminated the understeer in the slower corners,heres what i started with http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=430&setup=t4
so from that i moved the front shock to hole #2 and used 2.3/2.6 (thanks damian) progressives on the front and 1000cst oil in the rear diff made the car easy to get in and out of corners and the timesheet said it was faster too,i tried the shorter wheelbase at another track and it didnt work for me,i think if you run the shorter wheelbase you will have to adjust your set up to suit it,i ran 1.5 rear camber which doesnt wear 3mm of the outside edge of the tyre,this gave me more rotation as it reduced the rear grip slightly,looking at your set up i wouldnt say it was that aggresive tbh,im going to test 400cst oil in the shocks and the 2.5/2.8 springs on the front next time out

esckalayd

iTrader: (11)

A team mate was running mod and made the wheelbase adjustment and he went from fourth to TQ. Our car setups were very similar too, he was just running 2.5 springs all the way around. Next time i am going to try to decrease rear toe which will definitely help with steering and rotation.

esckalayd

iTrader: (11)

Add some ackerman shims as well, steering will increase and car will become more reactive to your inputs.

chasingthepack

thanks for that,ive never really got to grips with ackerman,so with more shims im increasing/have more ackerman which if im right makes the inside turning wheel turn more than the outer?
there ya go if im right i went the wrong way,ill get the hang of this one day lol

Skiddins

Other way around, more shims = less Ackerman, which means you turn the outer wheel more than with more Ackerman.

I always think of the car on full lock with the inside wheels steering knuckle against the limiter. The less Ackerman you use the more lock the outside wheel has (inside wheel remaining on full lock the whole time).

It's the outside wheel that is doing most of the steering due to the weight transfer as the car rolls.

chasingthepack

well explained,i got it now,i took the shims off as they were plastic and the guy i got the car from had over tightened one side so they were off,i now have ally spacers so ill go back to 1mm and try again,cheers damian