TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
#2402
That dirt looks exactly like the dirt we have out my local track. Hard packed and when its wet pretty dang hooked up.
#2403
I tend to disagree. I love my 2050, plenty of power when I need it. Some races can get close and on a big straight with a drag race to the end...ill take my 2050. Most guys at our track run a 1900, which definetly suites our track because its a bit smaller. Running the 2050 has taught me to be very smooth on the throttle as well. Too each his own!
#2404
Most get 50c - 90c, but not needed. I see pros run 5000mah 30c - 35c with 1900kv motors on the largest tracks around the SE, u get longer run time with lower c rating. If your battery runs too hot, you may need to get a higher discharge rate battery or lower esc settings.
Last edited by Razorbelly; 08-19-2014 at 11:10 PM.
#2405
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
Here's a copy and paste that may help.? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. The C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh).
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery.
My self, I run 6700MAH at 100C
6700 = 6.7 amps X 100C = 670 amps continuously. Keep in mind this is over kill. I doubt I am even capable of pushing that many amps through my Gen2 and 1900. At best I would be lucky to pull 180 amps out of a pack at full throttle. In short I am not stressing my pack at all.
I am skeptical of C ratings personally. My guess is I am able to pull around 150 amps?
Now lets say I am able to pull 180 amps from my pack with my esc motor combo?
A 5000MAH 30C would not be safe to run with out stressing the pack if I am able to pull 180 amps.
5000 = 5 amps X 30C = 150 amps.
In short a 30c pack would not last very long. Yet at 150 amps it would be the minimum I could run with out stressing the battery.
To sum it up you need to know how much draw your ESC motor combo can pull from the pack before you can find the minimum C rating or weight of pack you are looking to dial in for.
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery.
My self, I run 6700MAH at 100C
6700 = 6.7 amps X 100C = 670 amps continuously. Keep in mind this is over kill. I doubt I am even capable of pushing that many amps through my Gen2 and 1900. At best I would be lucky to pull 180 amps out of a pack at full throttle. In short I am not stressing my pack at all.
I am skeptical of C ratings personally. My guess is I am able to pull around 150 amps?
Now lets say I am able to pull 180 amps from my pack with my esc motor combo?
A 5000MAH 30C would not be safe to run with out stressing the pack if I am able to pull 180 amps.
5000 = 5 amps X 30C = 150 amps.
In short a 30c pack would not last very long. Yet at 150 amps it would be the minimum I could run with out stressing the battery.
To sum it up you need to know how much draw your ESC motor combo can pull from the pack before you can find the minimum C rating or weight of pack you are looking to dial in for.
#2406
#2407
Are you in Tally?
#2408
Indeed it is. I actually have not run the track since it was all redone a few years ago. I am just getting back into things. Just converted my 8ight-T to brushless and picked up a 8ight 3.0 E. Hopefully I will get a chance to get out there this weekend and see what's what.
Are you in Tally?
Are you in Tally?
No, in Mobile Al
#2409
Now that I have had some track time with my 3.0 - two race days (just getting into this), I have experience the same part failure three times and I am not sure what is causing it. Specifically, the shock shaft has popped out of the shock end causing the spring retainer and spring to come off. This has happened twice on a rear shock and once on a front shock.
Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
#2410
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
Now that I have had some track time with my 3.0 - two race days (just getting into this), I have experience the same part failure three times and I am not sure what is causing it. Specifically, the shock shaft has popped out of the shock end causing the spring retainer and spring to come off. This has happened twice on a rear shock and once on a front shock.
Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
#2411
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Now that I have had some track time with my 3.0 - two race days (just getting into this), I have experience the same part failure three times and I am not sure what is causing it. Specifically, the shock shaft has popped out of the shock end causing the spring retainer and spring to come off. This has happened twice on a rear shock and once on a front shock.
Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
Yes, the shocks were assembled correctly. What would cause this? My droop is about 100 in front and 110 in the rear. Is this too much? Could the landings be too rough?
#2415
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
Here's a copy and paste that may help.? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. The C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh).
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery.
My self, I run 6700MAH at 100C
6700 = 6.7 amps X 100C = 670 amps continuously. Keep in mind this is over kill. I doubt I am even capable of pushing that many amps through my Gen2 and 1900. At best I would be lucky to pull 180 amps out of a pack at full throttle. In short I am not stressing my pack at all.
I am skeptical of C ratings personally. My guess is I am able to pull around 150 amps?
Now lets say I am able to pull 180 amps from my pack with my esc motor combo?
A 5000MAH 30C would not be safe to run with out stressing the pack if I am able to pull 180 amps.
5000 = 5 amps X 30C = 150 amps.
In short a 30c pack would not last very long. Yet at 150 amps it would be the minimum I could run with out stressing the battery.
To sum it up you need to know how much draw your ESC motor combo can pull from the pack before you can find the minimum C rating or weight of pack you are looking to dial in for.
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery.
My self, I run 6700MAH at 100C
6700 = 6.7 amps X 100C = 670 amps continuously. Keep in mind this is over kill. I doubt I am even capable of pushing that many amps through my Gen2 and 1900. At best I would be lucky to pull 180 amps out of a pack at full throttle. In short I am not stressing my pack at all.
I am skeptical of C ratings personally. My guess is I am able to pull around 150 amps?
Now lets say I am able to pull 180 amps from my pack with my esc motor combo?
A 5000MAH 30C would not be safe to run with out stressing the pack if I am able to pull 180 amps.
5000 = 5 amps X 30C = 150 amps.
In short a 30c pack would not last very long. Yet at 150 amps it would be the minimum I could run with out stressing the battery.
To sum it up you need to know how much draw your ESC motor combo can pull from the pack before you can find the minimum C rating or weight of pack you are looking to dial in for.
The reason it is not helpful is the disconnect between continuous C ratings and the actual current draw of a car in racing conditions. Yes, the ESC may be rated at 120 amps continuous, but you never see 120 amps continuous in a race. Yes the motor may be rated for 100 amps continuous (with adequate cooling, but you never see 100 amps continuous in a RC car.
Point of fact: if a 1/8th buggy was drawing 100 amp continuous, you could only race 3 minutes on a 5000 mAHr pack. Yet many people get 10-15 minutes on a 5000 mAH pack and still have something left in the battery. I know from experience (in recharging a pack after a timed run) that my first E8 with a Neu 1512 motor drew an average of 18 amps over a 10 minute run. So even though that motor was rated at many thousands of watts, it was drawing less than 300 watts on average.
The continuous C rating and the motor ESC amp ratings are essentially irrelevant when looking at how many amps your motor/esc/car can draw. For two years I ran my E-8 on a Thunder Power 4300 mAHr 25C pack. Any high quality 40C-50C rated pack of reasonable capacity (4000-6000) should be sufficient for the current setups in E-8s.
Last edited by ta_man; 08-20-2014 at 06:16 PM.