sandrixx

iTrader: (5)

Mugen bros,

i know im just a newbie. But i would like to suggest that we try to keep all matters re MBX5 all in this thread,, seems like we have some "loose" threads outside regarding Mbx5's.. dont u think?.. Mr. Mod,, need help here..........thankx and Bros,, pls dont get me wrong k?.., I'm solid Mugen all the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tcmerf

First night out left a lot to be desired. Very twitchy and could not get it to jump flat to save my life. Im running 7,5,2 with 30 up front and 25 in back arms level do i need to go lighter in the front to make it moe forgiving. This was basically my first night running a buggy and i thnk my setup is way to unforgiving for a newbie. I was ok with the added traction of a truggy but not so mcuh here. Also found out i need to do a beter job with the loctite, seems like everyhting was backing out. At least floundering around with these things is more fun than doing it on a yz450f!

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

For Revelation switch the oils in your front and center diff (5000 front and 7000 center) and go up on the shock oil too. 40 (Mugen 400) in front and 35 (Mugen 350) in the back. This will calm the car down a bit and slow down the rebound. Your twitchy feeling was probably the car being over sprung for the light shock oil. Were you running the gray springs all around? What pistons do you have in it?

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Shock oil conversion from Mugen (CPS) to Losi or AE oils:

http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html

I'd run 5-7-2 in the diffs as suggested above, set the ride height up so it is "bones" (not arms) level in the front and slightly above level in the rear. The MBX5R comes with the old MBX5 gray springs. These require a bunch of ride height clips. Mugen now sells the longer springs (Part # E0529 and E0532) for teh longer shocks.

How is the rest of the car set up?

tcmerf

Actually after looking at the set up sheet again. I am running what bothyou uys suggested, 5,7,2 and 40,30 shock oil. I did get the longer springs and i am running the pistons that came in the kit. I did feel under damped in the back though. so i may go up there. I am also going to move the steering back one on the ackerman bar as i hear that smooths it out a little. Tuning with the diffs is something i have no experience wih so what is the rule of thumb. Thinner gives more bite if i rember correct i think. To be fair though the track is still coming in so i dont think there was a ton bite anyway so i am not real worried. Just having fun learning he car.As far as the rest of the setup goes s there an editable setup somewhere i want to get what i have down si can post it.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

One thing I've found the last couple of races, when the track is really rough, I needed to go up on the rear shock oil to 400 from 350. I even put the blue springs on the rear a couple of weeks ago @ the JBRL in Palm Desert to calm the back end down in the rough and it work wonders. I left them on for the Saturday Series at Proline last weekend and when it got rough there, the back end just soaked it all up. I also moved the inner caber link mount up one so it's on the inner column, middle hole. All of these changes helped get rid of the twitchy, springy feeling in the back end on a rough track.

tcmerf

Thanks for the help guys. Going to get spares today. A lost sterring bushing ended my night early. I dont really have anything right now, any suggestions on what to keep on hand. I have not really seen anything specific reading through the thread as far as a weak spot on the car.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Keep a full set of arms (front upper and lower and rear) set of pillow balls, clutch parts, clutch bearings (stock up on these. I'm changing them every race day to be safe.) hinge pins. Pretty much spare parts you'd stock for any other car. I broke my car for the first time this last weekend. Has anyone ever had the lower pillow ball pull out of the suspension arm? I had it happen twice. Once on each side on the same day. Cost me a fast qualifier and a second bump up into the A at the Saturday series.

Crim3Wav3

iTrader: (8)

John,

how many times have you unscrewed the ball from the arm before it pulled out?

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Maybe 3 or 4 times. I used CA on the threads each time. I'm not sure if that could have caused it. I was thinking that would prevent that from happening.

tcmerf

I picked up quite a bit of stuff today and went through the car again with the treadlock, red on the bushings! Anyway i have a question on how you guys measure the track width. How exactly do you do it I finally took an old wheel and cut a whole in it so i could change the camber in the front with a wheel on the car. I am assuming nobody messes wih tha pillow balls much one it is set up.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I usually use a set of old tires on Wabash spoke wheels to work with the front camber. You do need to check it from time to time though. Being off road, things get shoved around and it's not uncommon for the pillow ball to move just a touch. The thread is pretty coarse so a little movement can mean 1-2º easily.

As for track width, I just use a Proline gauge I have that measures the gap between the arm and the upright. I usually keep that at 4.5mm. What the overall track width is, I have no idea.

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

Hello, I just ran my MBX5 on the track for the first time and I it handled pretty good but I couldn't turn tight at all. Every corner was wide. It seems that there isn't enough steering throw left and right. I've heard people say that the standard X-5 doesn't have a lot of steering. Are there any mods I can do to the steering?

REVOS5

iTrader: (1)

Hello RCTECH

I am in the market for an MBX-5R. I used to drive an XB8, but couldn't get the rear end to calm down at all.

Few questions. Which tires/wheels work best with this buggy. I read about the diff o-ring/gasket problem. What's that about? How does it compare to the 8ight?

Thanks in advance.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Anybody ever try a 48 tooth spur on their prospec? I've been thinking of trying one just to see how it feels. I have plenty of top end I don't mind losing some, and a little gain on the bottom would be nice. Guessing I'd have to shim up the center diff so it doesn't stick out the chassis?..