Bubblehead

AGNO,

After looking at Hara's set-up I would also change sway-bars front 1.6mm rear 1.2mm, front pivot blocks spacer to 1.5mm, front stock tower hole #5.

AGNO

I had a lot of droop front and rear, the next time I'll try to decrease the front.
I tried front sway-bar 1.4 mm and 1.2 mm rear (1.6 mm is not available for TCX).
However, the IIC Hara setup during practice was pretty good, things became much worse with the increasing grip.

mr lee

Are there any setups around for foam asphalt?

Bubblehead

You'll right 1.6mm is not available I was thinking (black TC 1.6mm). But your problem is as track grip increased your cars grip decreased? You described your car as too nervous and little rear grip.

AGNO

Yes, this is the problem, when it increased the grip is greatly increased steering and increased front grip was too lighten the rear, creating loss of adhesion.
Perhaps with a less aggressive guide and with a greater ability to control the car can esssere very fast, but I'm not able ...

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

had a similar problem running on asphalt. when the traction came up i could barely drive the car around a corner. seemed the front was grabbing too hard so the rear would swing around easily. to help, we widened the rear track width (6mm hexes), removed the rear swaybar, removed the shim on the top camber link, and went from pink to gold springs in front (kept the silver springs at the rear). also tried running heavier oil (currently running 65wt in front and 55wt in the rear). easier to drive now but it's still a hand full for me. hths

san.

iTrader: (61)

TCX sway bars are rated differently. There's no 1.6mm.

Gold = 1.2mm
Silver = 1.3mm
Black = 1.4mm

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

BTW Big congratulations to Ryan Maker who dominated the field at the Australian Titles over the weekend

sosidge

Sorry to butt in on the TCX thread, but...

This is more or less the exact same problem I've seen myself with a few years of running the TOP Scythe (which uses the HB suspension) under my belt, and what I've seen trackside from a lot of people driving Cyclones and Pro4's over the years.

The suspension geometry on these cars generates a LOT of steering. Fast when it's under control, but when you are pushing the limit, the back end becomes very loose.

A couple of things that helped (a little) for me on the Scythe was a higher front roll centre (0.5-1mm extra under the blocks), heavier front damping, and less arm sweep. But the tendency to oversteer was always there. A long rear upper link has always been on my "to do" list as well (although I suspect the outer hole on the rear hub is a bit too long...).

Advil

iTrader: (19)

Have you tried lower the rear inner link by 1mm, use 1.2 rear sway bar, and take two screws out of top deck at rear of chassis. This helped my car out quite a bit last weekend.

Art

Apex

iTrader: (51)

What about trying some ant-dive up front to keep the front end from grabbing too much? I know the Tamiya guys do this to smooth the car out. Also, maybe try applying traction compound to rear tires longer than the front.

Bubblehead

You can also put a Diff in the front, I find that a spool pulls hard.

luic

Or simply, wide the front pivot blocks, you can use 1º or 2º in F/R.

Greetings, Luis C.

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I would move the front suspension arms forward by 1mm. So there should be 1.0mm shim in front of a-arms and 1.75mm in back. You can also rise up the suspension block to 1.25mm/1.5mm from the AH setup (1.0mm).

Hope it helps.
Thanks,

AGNO

Wow! Thanks, many tips and all valid, in December will attend the next race on carpet, I will keep you informed.