1gdsmracer

iTrader: (96)

Dose anyone know if the carbon fiber shocks towers are any lighter the the stock fiber glass ones.

bakoo

While you wait for Hobbyking to stock up on parts, all the 3racing branded replacement parts and hop-ups are still readily available from numerous vendors, some quite heavily discounted now that the XI Sport is out.

6376vette

Yes

ttsquirrel

So does that mean we have limiteyytd parts? Do you know if xi sport parts interchange with zero s parts?

buckeye dan

iTrader: (11)

1Like · · Share
Top Comments
40 people like this.



Dan Hissong what is going to happen to parts for zero s will be still be able to get them?
Like · Reply · Wednesday at 8:30pm

3 Racing Dan sure available at least continue 2years parts support , don't worry
Like · Reply · Thursday at 2:57am

R/C Racer Rodd Roddy, CA I'm thinking of getting a SAKURA XI. The reviews on this car are great.
Like · Reply · 1 · June 23 at 5:06pm

Zaim Kamil Sakura.. i love it
Like · Reply · 1 · June 22 at 1:46am
Write a comment...

ttsquirrel

hello, i received my kit from HK and have started on it. here is my first problem.

http://www.sdrcc.co.uk/pits/racing%2...akuraZeroS.pdf

i am following the tip above and the instruction manual. i was very careful to make sure everything seated well but my diff still leaked. see pic.

does anyone have any other tips to prevent this leak?? should i take the diff apart, clean it all up and start again?

thanks

TTS

Yogi-

Did you put some grease on all the seals, o- rings and diff seal ?. It may just have to much oil and being forced out. I don't run oil in my rear diff, just a bit of ball diff grease.

bakoo

+1 to what Yogi- said about grease. I use green slime, works very well. But you also have to pay attention to how the screws are tightened. If you do it wrong, you most likely get a leaky and/or crooked diff: http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=133

ttsquirrel

In the link you provided, they still use diff oil. You and yogi are not using any diff oil, just grease or green tire slime? Really, the green tire slime? From the aerosol or the pump? If that's the case I'm going to disassemble both diff and just use grease...thanks for the quick replies...TTS

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

The grease or green slime that others refer to is put on the seals, both the 2 small o ring seals and the larger center seal.
The reason for the grease on the seals is that it helps to form a more leak proof seal, and provide lubrication for the 2 smaller o ring seals on the out drives. Clean & coat all the seals completely with grease before you place them back in again.
I prefer the 3 racing anti wear grease, but any other grease will do as long as it's safe to use on rubber. (I also use yeah racing "hobby grease")

Another crucial step that must be taken is screwing the 4 small screws into the larger side of the diff body first before you assemble anything. This will make the plastic rise up a little around the screw holes, after that remove the screws and sand down the "bumps" that have formed around the holes.
Doing this will give that side of the diff a flat surface to press against the center seal when you screw the diff together.

Also - don't over fill the diff. when putting the oil into the diff, only fill it so the oil just comes over the top of the cross pins in the diff assembly.
If you fill the diff completely with oil it will be too much and will leak out.
Then when you screw the diff together a small amount of grease will squeeze out from under the 4 screws, this also helps to seal the diff and just wipe the excess away when you have tightened the screws up. Make sure you don't over tighten the screws as this will make the diff bind and be inconsistent.

Hope this helps.

p.s. For the front diff use the thicker diff oil that comes in the kit, and for the rear diff use the left over thinner oil that is used in the shocks. If you use the thick diff oil in the read diff the car will be very hard to drive as it will want to over steer everywhere.

Rob.

6376vette

Not the tire slime. associated green slime used on shock and diff o rings to help seal them.

did you file the top of the screw holes level with the sides of the diff case?

If all else fails use some black permatex gasket sealer on the rubber gasket. don't get any on the gears though. a light coat will work. had to do this to many diffs of all different makes.

and people wonder why I switched to the ball diff. geez

ttsquirrel

Lol..that's funny..I'm such a tweeb...I could only think or tire slime....ok well you've got me convinced.....ball diff is on the way....on another note...since I can't finish the diffs I went on to step 2 center gear adaptor....I bought aluminum adaptor and 19 t pulley...it doesn't include all the shims you need to finish the assembly...I need M12x0.85 shim and the shims aren't in bag 2 with the parts...crap...looks like a need a shopping list for the hobby store...grease for step one...shims for step three....thanks for the quick replies...TTS

6376vette

If you are referring to the lay shaft shims they come with the replacement lay shaft. the kit shims should be fine for now. the pink shims aren't completely necessary but they do take up some slack in the shaft.

ttsquirrel

does 3R make a ball diff? or did you make your own or which brand did you use?

bakoo

Doing a rebuild on a gear diff can be a bit messy, but know that ball diffs have issues too, just not the same as gear diffs. If you put together the advice people here gave on building your gear diff, or just follow the "How to build the perfect diff" manual I linked to, you'll get it right.

Personally, I don't find ball diffs to be any easier to tune or maintain than gear diffs, and prefer gear diffs on anything but m-chassis cars (2wd minis).