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Old 08-11-2013, 11:50 AM
  #11806  
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Yeah. Pretty much like that. The problem is that I can't find that one anywhere. It's been on the TD website since the B chassis has been released but I still don't see it stocked here. Might have to get my friend in Scotland to bring it on his next visit if I can't find one.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:00 PM
  #11807  
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It's worth checking with your distributor, if this part isn't available yet it will be soon.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:41 PM
  #11808  
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For anyone who also runs the stadium truck dest210, I had an aluminum chassis made which uses the side pods from the DEX. Never ended up using it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post12435939
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:24 PM
  #11809  
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A quick tidbit of info on that chassis. I've only had a couple of those made. If memory serves me right, that may very well be the only LW option on, the other 1 or 2 didn't have the extra milling. It reduces the weight by about 25g (it was 20g on the buggy ones, more millin on this one) If the buyer has any questions or sugestions I'm always here for tech support. (P.S. feel free to quote this into your ad)
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:29 PM
  #11810  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
A quick tidbit of info on that chassis. I've only had a couple of those made. If memory serves me right, that may very well be the only LW option on, the other 1 or 2 didn't have the extra milling. It reduces the weight by about 25g (it was 20g on the buggy ones, more millin on this one) If the buyer has any questions or sugestions I'm always here for tech support. (P.S. feel free to quote this into your ad)
It pains me to sell it, but Cactus Classic is the only time I could see myself running it. Very high quality! And love my DEX +8.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:31 PM
  #11811  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Probably not yet. The alloy chassis is the current project and needs to be done. I was very close to modifying the stock block but that can't be done with the new one.

The dex210 will have a few tweaks, the dex410v4 will have less changed so it'll be out before the 210.
Thanks. Was just hoping.

My guess for the 210. Type B chassis and parts. CF towers. Aluminum steering rack. Quick change shock mounts?

Originally Posted by TRF415boy
It's worth checking with your distributor, if this part isn't available yet it will be soon.
Tower doesn't even have it yet and it's been months. Tower is pretty much Great Planes.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:15 PM
  #11812  
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Aluminium shock caps in stock at Tower!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDNVJ&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDNVH&P=7
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:19 AM
  #11813  
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Is there a quick and easy way to switch the motor setup from rear to mid? I need some help on the conversion as i bought a 2nd hand one, pretty unsure of the build yet.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:20 AM
  #11814  
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Originally Posted by Xiiaoda
Is there a quick and easy way to switch the motor setup from rear to mid? I need some help on the conversion as i bought a 2nd hand one, pretty unsure of the build yet.
I saw manuals on the the Durango site.u could down load.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:25 AM
  #11815  
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Buggy finally arrived (ordered 3 July and got here Friday). Dropped the electronics in it last night and will work on it again today. I installed a D3.5 and man, that isnt an easy combination in the 210. The B motor wire is tough to install under the slipper adjustment and the can of the D3.5 doesnt give many options to clock the can differently without exposing the tabs to rear collisions.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:47 AM
  #11816  
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Originally Posted by Xiiaoda
Is there a quick and easy way to switch the motor setup from rear to mid? I need some help on the conversion as i bought a 2nd hand one, pretty unsure of the build yet.
I just did the same thing with a 2nd hand 210. Download the manual and follow the MM build instructions after disassembling the rear of the car. It isn't too bad at all as long as you have all the parts. The car is probably set up in RM3 so you'll have to take apart the tranny to set it up MM4 which is the preferred MM setup.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:08 AM
  #11817  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Buggy finally arrived (ordered 3 July and got here Friday). Dropped the electronics in it last night and will work on it again today. I installed a D3.5 and man, that isnt an easy combination in the 210. The B motor wire is tough to install under the slipper adjustment and the can of the D3.5 doesnt give many options to clock the can differently without exposing the tabs to rear collisions.
Rotate the mounting endbell. My tabs are about 2:00 when looking at the tabside.

Originally Posted by McD44
It isn't too bad at all as long as you have all the parts.
This is the real key here.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:58 AM
  #11818  
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Originally Posted by McD44
I just did the same thing with a 2nd hand 210. Download the manual and follow the MM build instructions after disassembling the rear of the car. It isn't too bad at all as long as you have all the parts. The car is probably set up in RM3 so you'll have to take apart the tranny to set it up MM4 which is the preferred MM setup.
May i know what are the parts that differ from the rm3 configuration to the mm4? Then i can search into the whole bag of spares it came together from the previous owner...
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:28 AM
  #11819  
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Originally Posted by Xiiaoda
May i know what are the parts that differ from the rm3 configuration to the mm4? Then i can search into the whole bag of spares it came together from the previous owner...
310248 2 28T smaller idler gears for the for the trans
310247 Idler pin
2 5x10x4 Bearings for the idler pin
320126 Wing mounts are different
320128-4/5 320127-4 320127-2 Several plastic mounting pieces.
320121-1 Mini bumper

Flip through the manual if you get a chance. It mostly starts on page 27.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:54 AM
  #11820  
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So I'm redoing my shocks based off a recommendation from a local. The setup suggests a 2 hole piston however I don't have any blanks and no 2 hole pistons. However I do have several 6 hole pistons laying around. I had the idea of closing off some of the holes with an old soldering gun then sanding any bumps smooth. Anyone ever done this with success?
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