http://rcinsider.com/

So, I added some boost to things and geared to the moon and my 12th and 10th pans are much faster. I'm keeping an eye on heat right now and my gas stuff I was referring to is on-road 10th and 8th. I have run 12th on and off since the old 12i days and scratch built several along the way. I love 12th racing, but was annoyed with the one cell changeover . Electric has always been a game of chasing technology. I will race them and love it all winter, but I can't wait to smell the nitro again.

Have you tried a Black/Yellow combo yet.
I find that if Magenta doesn't work, Synthetic are the go.
One of the 2 combos will always have the car On-Point

If you have the right tires, side springs & oil are more of a fine tune dealio.
Stock R5 out of the box setup is good everywhere, I changed only minor things to tune for the day, and my style.
I still suggest folks start with that setup.

1s lipo is the best thing to happen to 12th scale since foam tires.
Low cost, lightweight packs, with tons of run time.
Light cars means it's easier on tires, bodies etc.
Our sweet spot for motors is right in the middle of the range of the .5 spec motors, and there is more than enough with a mod motor.

Embrace the change, it will be here for a while.

The change will be here for six months and then the latest greatest will get in our pockets again. I have already had both cars and spent more to upgrade them to get race ready this season than I have spent on my gas cars in the last five years. I did it because I love to race and all we have here at the moment is electric. It isn't the first time I've done this and won't be the last, but none of us will be running our present gear for long. My biggest gripe is that we don't have enough cars in this class to have a stock and mod, so I may be stuck with the slow stuff unless everyone in our class decides to go fast. I've always hated spending tons on electric cars only to have it all outdated the next season, and all you have to do is look at electric history to see that.

I completely agree with you. I always suggest that someone start with the out of the box settings. I'm still using those on my third variant of the RC12r5.x and it still works well enough to remain on top at my track.

One reason to have lots of up travel is for hits to the rear. If you get rear ended and the shock stops, shock mounts, shafts, top plates, etc. can break.

As for performance, doesn't really matter.

You could not be more wrong if you bought the correct equipment. I've been running my Tekin esc's for two + yrs, and I still run an old smooth can novak brushless motor that I cannot remember how long I've had it, four yrs at least. In the last two yrs I have'nt had to spend more than $250 to race and most of that was for tires and some new batts. If I look back even further the total cost is still only around $500 in the last five yrs and that includes the cost to update my charger when lipo came out. Now I admit I'm not the fastest guy but I'm not the slowest either.

12th scale has never been more affordable; think back to the days of the 12i when you needed six battery packs(which lasted a few weeks or so) rebuilt the motor every run etc. Now those days were expensive.

Hey it's cool to have another brother in 12th scale, but your comments don't seem based on reality.
Others here have already pointed out that the platform has been stable for a few years now, and there is no change on the horizon that will outdate the equipment you are buying today.

A 12L and the ilk of T-bar cars are still competitive at a club level if the driver is up to it.

Mod for what ever reason is a hard sell, agree with you there, but if you run it in practice, and get a few followers, more will come.

But not with a negative nancy attitude

Are you having any fun with this hobby, or is it all bah humbug ?

I wish I could get a mod class going locally but they have all they can do to handle 17.5 boosted here in East Central Illinois. The funny part is that our WGT class is "faster" by about .4 to .5 seconds.

So the 17.5 WGT class is faster than the 17.5 12th or is it 10.5 WGT?

I think he means that the bigger car with bigger tires means more control for the same horsepower. The WGT drivers might just be better though. To me anything slower than boosted 13.5 just feels anemic.

Boosted 13.5

I have the current CRC cars and I've picked up their batteries and I do love racing and have for over 30 years. The electronics in both cars were outdated after 1 1/2 years and the new one cell stuff was pricey. I run the race program here, so I am an avid promoter and supporter of the hobby. I just want to complain about the 30c , no now 40c, no now 60c. I don't whine to the racers and I know I'm not going to change the industry, but I would like to see my equipment be useable a year from now which I seriously doubt it will. I like to run fast and be competitive with the top cars. To do that , you have to keep up with the times and in electric racing that can be a constant changeover of gear. Most guys at the track have laptops tuning their esc and high end chargers monitoring 90c packs, with $100 dollar plus motors . I am in this for the long haul so I'm not trying to discourage anyone or say that I'm getting out. I was in this before most of you and I will be here longer than most. I would like to see more control over things like boost and "c" ratings and other high dollar things that are not even necessary to have competitive racing. I have vented and I will be at the races on Saturday with a smile . Somebody give me a shot of scotch and I'll be okay.

As I've watched in my club that sounds about right

My 1/12 cost this year: $42 for a battery, new body and $40 for tires. So far.

Carryover from previous 5 years : Tekin RS, 17.5 D3, AE RC12R5.1, Trinty 220mah LiFe Rx pack, spurs, pinions, tools, etc.

Buy right the first time and you save money, following the fads can be costly.