hello again people, i had extra b4/t4 transmission case and parts with the stock steel top shaft from Associated. Against the recommendation of some other random forums i decided to put all steel gears in it.

I know this topic has been beaten to death on numerous forums some say its fine and others say why do you want to do that? Either way i decided to do it because thats how I am.

So, I put the Robinson sc10 steel idler in and the rc10gt2 steel ball differential in with some silicon nitride balls that i had previously ordered a bunch of last month. top shaft should be fine as it is also hardened steel i believe. Everything fit in the case and closed smooth as butter. proceeded to spin/rotate the outdrives and they were delicious as well.

Reattached tranny and put the slipper togeather as follows. ....robinson racing sc10 54t/32p steel spur and 13t/32p pinion (paper meshed the gears) and headed out

Proceeded out to the street and was happy with the performance until...
Everytime i really gave it some juice it would make a (baseball card in the spokes) sound if i punched it to hard. However accelerating at a moderate pace it sounded fantastic and smooth. I checked the mesh on the spur/pinion and it was cool. Havent opened the tranny yet but now i can hit the throttle and the outdrives do nothing. spur spins, pinion spins, outdrive....nothing, wheels nothing.

i am going to try tightening the outdrives (may have left them too loose) if that dosent work i will grease the shizzle out off all the tranny gear more than i already did.

If anyone has any help/input/comments/concerns/ or things to throw/yell at me i will gladly listen and dodge all heavy objects later

You get more initial steering, but less exit and midcorner steering.

Could anyone point me to the parts list that will upgrade the FTB4 to the FTB4.1? Im sure it would be cheaper to just get the new kit but I got a deal on this and figured I would try it out. I have looked here on the B4.1/T4.1 thread and seen the new "features". Im looking for an actual parts list, if one is available. Thank you, G

your diff is too loose!

Not a lot actually, Ft shocks are a different length, rear tower has a hole farther in and has more clearance for the battery strap. V2 Slipper spring. There are other differences but these are the main differences in dimensions. Rear hubs have bigger outside bearings also.

Greetings from Vaasa, Finland!
I´m about to buy the B4.1 FT, and would like to ask, is there any tricks or tips when getting it done?
Tried to look from the net, but no luck so far. I assume there is someone that have some story...
Anyway, nice forum You have, sooo much to read =)

yes that was it!


I always find that you need a good set of hex drivers and nut drivers. The exact sizes are in your manual i think first or second page. Other I tend to use loctite on any screw contacting a metal surface. Im sure other more seasoned vets will have way more info than my noobness. later

For those that are running the hex conversion on the b4, any comments good or bad? Which rear wheels are popular, 22???

Just put my Ae hex's on and they R great....

I have all the tools needed, so maybe I just follow the instructions... There is just so much "upgrades", I think the longer chassis is one of those that just must have...
Just FI, I don´t even have it yet, but I like to do the research before I´m in trouble

Have not trued on B4 yet but they fit very nice on the SC10. They are very tight on rear axle and can be used with solid drive pins. Front steering blocks for hex are also a very nice fit. How ya been Adam?

get green springs and ft turnbuckles.. make ride high level on dog bones and arms. Then go drive, you may want a new servo the rtr stock one burns out in alot of cases...

i changed to a factory plus 8 mm chassic and went to carbon front and rear braces this is the only changes i did now my car is a turning beast before it would push a bit ,im guessing i gained a bunch of stiffness from the carbon and that is what gave me all of my steering ,does this sound right ,looking for thoughts on this ,im not complaining i like it im just wondering if someone else has only changed just the chassic and got more steering . thnx

I changed to +8 chassis as the only change. Track is really high bite. I didn't notice a whole lot. Maybe more stability...maybe.

Ran 4 batteries on the 4.1 chassis that day then swithed to +8 and ran like 6-7 more batteries. The car is fast. I just couldn't feel much difference.

Sounds like you may have torched your diff gear. It will make that noise and behave that way while there are still a semblance of teeth on the gear about to fail. Once it fails completely, it will just sit there and chitter at you like a pissed off squirrel.

Edit: Should have continued reading. I didn't realize that you hadn't rechecked the diff.