6LikesTamiya Ta06
10-21-2011, 10:35 AM
#991
Just thought I would post up some of my latest TA06 experiments.
In the pics is a layout for a shorty pack. It is really not as cool as you would think since the chassis still needs to be balanced out for the servo which puts about 45 grams back on the outside of the chassis. I went back to a standard set-up to test batteries back to back.
I also removed a whopping 27ish grams from the drive-line with the following parts.
R1101: R1 Wurks 7075-T6 Drive Axles (Tamiya, pair)
TAM54304: TA06 Front Direct Coupling - 39T
TAM53724: Tamiya 46mm Swing Shaft Lw
TAM51469: TRF417 Gear Diff Unit Cup Joint
Hotbodies DCJs are going in tonight before carpet club racing tomorrow. I should have a very good spec rubber tire carpet set-up after tomorrow. I was getting within a tenth of my TCX consistently before the newest diet listed above.
If you run open rubber tires, not only are Sorex better tires, but they will also drop another 20 grams of static weight off of the drive-line.
Running weight with regular battery, 1389 grams.
Running weight pre-ballast with shorty, 1291 grams.
Mike Slaughter
In the pics is a layout for a shorty pack. It is really not as cool as you would think since the chassis still needs to be balanced out for the servo which puts about 45 grams back on the outside of the chassis. I went back to a standard set-up to test batteries back to back.
I also removed a whopping 27ish grams from the drive-line with the following parts.
R1101: R1 Wurks 7075-T6 Drive Axles (Tamiya, pair)
TAM54304: TA06 Front Direct Coupling - 39T
TAM53724: Tamiya 46mm Swing Shaft Lw
TAM51469: TRF417 Gear Diff Unit Cup Joint
Hotbodies DCJs are going in tonight before carpet club racing tomorrow. I should have a very good spec rubber tire carpet set-up after tomorrow. I was getting within a tenth of my TCX consistently before the newest diet listed above.
If you run open rubber tires, not only are Sorex better tires, but they will also drop another 20 grams of static weight off of the drive-line.
Running weight with regular battery, 1389 grams.
Running weight pre-ballast with shorty, 1291 grams.
Mike Slaughter
10-21-2011, 11:06 AM
#995
In my opinion, it is a car you have to "want to drive". All other things being equal, the driver of the TA06 is going to have the harder slog.
It will need some work out of the box to compete with your previous cars. On tight carpet tracks it loses a bit too much coming out of the turns to be competitive. So far I have failed after many hours to free up the drive-train to any where near the level of a two belt car.
Larger sweeping tracks will mitigate the issue.
Box stock it is a serious pig and it shows on the track. The easiest solution to that problem is a shorty pack. An instant 100 grams weight savings for about $60 in the US. They give up a bit in the voltage department, (see pic of my packs at 35 amps) but so far I feel that is offset by the weight savings if you do not have time and $$$$ to trim the weight in other ways. Even then it may have benefits as you are able to put the weight were you want it.
It has been beaten to death, but the stock Philips head screws must go, and as mentioned the aluminum turnbuckles are not conducive to an abusive driving style.....
If your racing in-doors a spool is an essential tuning aid (+ big drive-train weight savings) along with a good set of springs (Ride, HPI).
In the end my personal experience was that it took just as much money, if not a little more, to compete with the fore mentioned cars along with a higher level of commitment to the build. But, it can definitely have it's own rewards taking the path less traveled.
Mike
10-21-2011, 11:10 AM
#997
Ding! Ding! 
Like I said though, I pulled the set-up to do back to back battery testing. This weekend will be the first time that I can run back to back with equal weights between the shorty and standard pack.
If I don't see a difference in times between the two pack types I will try the "stealth" install.
I run blinky so normally the speedo temps at around 90 degrees. Having done crazier motors and boost in off-road with the same speedo with near zero airflow, a heavier car and a body running on top of it I do not foresee any issues.
Mike
Like I said though, I pulled the set-up to do back to back battery testing. This weekend will be the first time that I can run back to back with equal weights between the shorty and standard pack.
If I don't see a difference in times between the two pack types I will try the "stealth" install.
I run blinky so normally the speedo temps at around 90 degrees. Having done crazier motors and boost in off-road with the same speedo with near zero airflow, a heavier car and a body running on top of it I do not foresee any issues.
Mike
10-21-2011, 11:17 AM
#998
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I spent almost 2 hours last night building my rear dif (beginning of the kit).
I am wondering though I the kit come with a pinion for the motor I choose to put there or, it this something I need to purchase separately such as the tires ? - I hate the Phillips screws... I cannot wait for my TI stuff.
In regards to building the dif (rear). the instructions ask to fill it up with differential oil, however after looking at the bags that came with the car, I only saw a CLEAR "damper oil" which I am presuming it the "dif oil" and another bottle of yellowish "damper oil in the back with the shocks."
Can someone tell me if I am in the right direction please? also what weight is this dif and damper oil in the kit?
One more question, Do you guys recommend cleaning the kit bearings (taking the grease out with an ultrasonic cleaner) and just lubing with bearing oil?
Thanks,
I am wondering though I the kit come with a pinion for the motor I choose to put there or, it this something I need to purchase separately such as the tires ? - I hate the Phillips screws... I cannot wait for my TI stuff.
In regards to building the dif (rear). the instructions ask to fill it up with differential oil, however after looking at the bags that came with the car, I only saw a CLEAR "damper oil" which I am presuming it the "dif oil" and another bottle of yellowish "damper oil in the back with the shocks."
Can someone tell me if I am in the right direction please? also what weight is this dif and damper oil in the kit?
One more question, Do you guys recommend cleaning the kit bearings (taking the grease out with an ultrasonic cleaner) and just lubing with bearing oil?
Thanks,
10-21-2011, 11:40 AM
#999
My view is probably going to be a bit unpopular but.....
In my opinion, it is a car you have to "want to drive". All other things being equal, the driver of the TA06 is going to have the harder slog.
It will need some work out of the box to compete with your previous cars. On tight carpet tracks it loses a bit too much coming out of the turns to be competitive. So far I have failed after many hours to free up the drive-train to any where near the level of a two belt car.
Larger sweeping tracks will mitigate the issue.
Box stock it is a serious pig and it shows on the track. The easiest solution to that problem is a shorty pack. An instant 100 grams weight savings for about $60 in the US. They give up a bit in the voltage department, (see pic of my packs at 35 amps) but so far I feel that is offset by the weight savings if you do not have time and $$$$ to trim the weight in other ways. Even then it may have benefits as you are able to put the weight were you want it.
It has been beaten to death, but the stock Philips head screws must go, and as mentioned the aluminum turnbuckles are not conducive to an abusive driving style.....
If your racing in-doors a spool is an essential tuning aid (+ big drive-train weight savings) along with a good set of springs (Ride, HPI).
In the end my personal experience was that it took just as much money, if not a little more, to compete with the fore mentioned cars along with a higher level of commitment to the build. But, it can definitely have it's own rewards taking the path less traveled.
Mike
In my opinion, it is a car you have to "want to drive". All other things being equal, the driver of the TA06 is going to have the harder slog.
It will need some work out of the box to compete with your previous cars. On tight carpet tracks it loses a bit too much coming out of the turns to be competitive. So far I have failed after many hours to free up the drive-train to any where near the level of a two belt car.
Larger sweeping tracks will mitigate the issue.
Box stock it is a serious pig and it shows on the track. The easiest solution to that problem is a shorty pack. An instant 100 grams weight savings for about $60 in the US. They give up a bit in the voltage department, (see pic of my packs at 35 amps) but so far I feel that is offset by the weight savings if you do not have time and $$$$ to trim the weight in other ways. Even then it may have benefits as you are able to put the weight were you want it.
It has been beaten to death, but the stock Philips head screws must go, and as mentioned the aluminum turnbuckles are not conducive to an abusive driving style.....
If your racing in-doors a spool is an essential tuning aid (+ big drive-train weight savings) along with a good set of springs (Ride, HPI).
In the end my personal experience was that it took just as much money, if not a little more, to compete with the fore mentioned cars along with a higher level of commitment to the build. But, it can definitely have it's own rewards taking the path less traveled.
Mike
It is NOT a chassis to run lower than a 7.5T motor in. You CAN do it, but you will be at a MAJOR disadvantage. This is a chassis that is balanced better than many I have raced, but its balanced the opposite of every chassis I have raced. so there is a definite learning curve. I reccomend racing VTA, RCGT(what I race) and similar 13.5-21.5 turn motors.
I have yet to race against other people, being as how I am still very limited on time and still dialing in the car, but my lap times are within the range for the class. Theres a huge difference in handling with the vertical and IFS setup, and you just need to find what will help you. The IFS bodies(why else would you run the IFSsetup?!
) are not roar legal, which is the main (and only) benefit of this chassis. I am sure the Exotek version will fix many issues (weight, Servo sticking nearly 2" out, felx-but that is solved with the Tamiya carbon reinforced parts)
10-21-2011, 02:43 PM
#1001
Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!
Really trying to figure out if this car is worth it being that TC5R/JRXS-R are going for $150 on here. I think the only other car that has battery in middle would be the Team Magic car... Hmmm
Really trying to figure out if this car is worth it being that TC5R/JRXS-R are going for $150 on here. I think the only other car that has battery in middle would be the Team Magic car... Hmmm
10-21-2011, 03:09 PM
#1002
Suspended
Tigermoth v10 http://tigermothracing.com/products_10.html
has also the battery in the middle of the car.
This car (I mean ta06) is superb to drive and it is very easy to handle.
Jerzi
has also the battery in the middle of the car.
This car (I mean ta06) is superb to drive and it is very easy to handle.
Jerzi
10-21-2011, 03:18 PM
#1003
This is the one my friend told me about but for the life of me I couldn't remember the name - Thank You! but where do you buy it and how much?
Tigermoth v10 http://tigermothracing.com/products_10.html
has also the battery in the middle of the car.
This car (I mean ta06) is superb to drive and it is very easy to handle.
Jerzi
has also the battery in the middle of the car.
This car (I mean ta06) is superb to drive and it is very easy to handle.
Jerzi
10-21-2011, 03:24 PM
#1004
Suspended
10-21-2011, 03:53 PM
#1005
I spent almost 2 hours last night building my rear dif (beginning of the kit).
I am wondering though I the kit come with a pinion for the motor I choose to put there or, it this something I need to purchase separately such as the tires ? - I hate the Phillips screws... I cannot wait for my TI stuff.
In regards to building the dif (rear). the instructions ask to fill it up with differential oil, however after looking at the bags that came with the car, I only saw a CLEAR "damper oil" which I am presuming it the "dif oil" and another bottle of yellowish "damper oil in the back with the shocks."
Can someone tell me if I am in the right direction please? also what weight is this dif and damper oil in the kit?
One more question, Do you guys recommend cleaning the kit bearings (taking the grease out with an ultrasonic cleaner) and just lubing with bearing oil?
Thanks,
I am wondering though I the kit come with a pinion for the motor I choose to put there or, it this something I need to purchase separately such as the tires ? - I hate the Phillips screws... I cannot wait for my TI stuff.
In regards to building the dif (rear). the instructions ask to fill it up with differential oil, however after looking at the bags that came with the car, I only saw a CLEAR "damper oil" which I am presuming it the "dif oil" and another bottle of yellowish "damper oil in the back with the shocks."
Can someone tell me if I am in the right direction please? also what weight is this dif and damper oil in the kit?
One more question, Do you guys recommend cleaning the kit bearings (taking the grease out with an ultrasonic cleaner) and just lubing with bearing oil?
Thanks,
As far as the bearings, I wasnt happy with them. after one run they felt grimey, I opted for the Abec 5 stainless. I wish i would have waited for the acer ones.
Whenever i get bearings, i dismantle, sonic clean then put gun oil in it. Not bearing oil. Smooth and if it can handle the heat of a .45 Taurus 24/7 pro, it can hold the heat of a 8 min race.