After making this statement my girlfriend commented on the pink springs on my sct and I thought maybe these guys are on to something

prob should just say sorry now for the long text prob bad grammer..lol



No chris, I mean i think in the past 3 weeks u ask me that question 3 or 4 times do you think i would tell you wrong? O bye the way ur mini cooper is dialed..lol... i might have to get one if 1/14 isnt gonna go...Its part of my duty and what i like doing is helping people.. why would i wanna see you break a 100 servo? whole point of a team driver is to help customers and up and coming racers out with tips and pointers not make there car worse.. instead ask someone who never drove the car,knows anything about the car except part numbers or up to date with inside info the same question and give u an answer but doesnt know why or the reason for it, im pretty sure almost everyone will agree..
1 reason they glue the servo savor is because almost all the servos now adays have way to much power or torque and are metal geared so the gears wont strip cause the car is lighter or flex more then breaking a gear, Plus evenwith the HD spring it still wears out or has a delaywith the steering input. it would be kind like you bying a m11x the airtronics src servos that produce 5 or 6 times faster responce then the m11x (fastest responce out) as is but not buying the src reciever, or having all the fast responce stuff and not setting it on you radio to use the src mode...lol believe me i know..im a dummy..lol
2 Also another main reason for doing the glue job is it allows u to buy a smooth servo or alittle slower speed and less torque then a high voltage 450oz torque .07 speed and be twitch and have to control of the cars u no.. 2wd is a driver class as it is like 1/12. like futaba servo last year besides being updated to digital people go with the 9650 compared to the 9602 the 9650 is slower and less torque the the 9602...ur prob thinking wouldnt u want the responce in 1/12 yes but if youhave noticed the guys who know or realize that you really wanna run the black mid size servo savor and use the 2 bottom holes and trimthe top off so it clears the body reason being way stronger spring inside so better servo to wheel input and is smoother compared to the small white one thats alot weaker plastic, breaks/flexs and wears out about a mont in an need replacement.. i dont know of other brand but thats kimbro,, thats how it fixs you prob you describe its called a double steer.. ..

But this is the steps for the servo saver assembly for either the b4 or the b4.1...
1/ put together servo saver as u would.. plastic blecrank/HD spring 2 thin shims and tighten down spring so it pre threads the crank.
2/ deassemble it. make sure the bottom and top are smooth and would move freely
3/ now reassemble, but put a bead of ca in between the top and bottom of belcranks then spring 2 shims and nut
4 now tighten to normal setting do not just tighten allway down it binds up the rest, let dry
5/ put in steering bearing in
6/bolt steering rack to top plate. keep and eye on the spacer that hooks the 2 screws from each belcrank together as some kits seem to have a little longer screw(longer one) might have to trim it a little cause if you just tighten them it will be tighten and on a slight angle and bind movement of the rack
7 U now want the spacer level as possible with free movement and just a touch of up and down play and ur set!..

Also another quick tip for the v2 shocks try the old white spacers that goes in between the orings the white ones as there a touch smaller and doesnt bind up the orings up when u put the shafts throught the bottom and then tighten the bottom cartiage..it make the shocks alot smoother..

When i ran for TLR i use to Just get RIT black dye and dye the spring black that way if you got mistrack of what rate or brand spring they are ur could look at the very bottom were the coils flatens and starts and u could see the color but form what i hear AE/and KYosho spring doesnt take the dye real good and color comes out different from each springs.. But u def have to be careful when grinding the powercoaing of as itwill def distort the spring and makethinner at spot at the spring...I tryied it with my dremal an3 different metal wire wheels. prob the right combo of larger dye grinder,speedand wire itshould comeup with no prob... or maybe soften the powdercoating first with chemicals then wire brush.... ho know but i wanna find out ASAP!l


Also i dont know about you guys but racing isnt just the hobby to me! i love learning and help others with setups and getting cars right or trouble shootin mistakes! also making your Car one of a kind by doing the color screws,bolts nuts. Or even go to the extreme and tianadize each lunsford screw a color with 9 volt batterys
Not go run the hellout of you buggy or truck with bent hinge pins worn diff leaky shocks andcome up to ateam driver and place ur car on the bench a say this car sucks! Its all about learning, running, testing with different parts for your self... Dont getme wrong not one team driver should turn you away but if your racing then dont forget you wanna maintain you race machine
I dont remeber when but a couple times people asked me how many times i rebuild my shocks or clean my car throughout... i told him at least 1 a week... if i have to ill replace shock oring every race if there not right or rebuild my diff... when you up to race your going out to better yourself and you times not short your self with a pour maintained machine that you could of fix but you were 2 lazy and didnt feel like it. Now im a serious racer some are in it for fun.. but dont look at me funny with a goofy look on your face and say ur nuts... example... if you build your shocks with one of them shock pumps or inside in aircondition set at 60 deg but u go out and race on a track that 90 with humity. your shocks arent gonna be the same? 1 ur oring are gonna swell 2 preasure is different and your car isnt gonna handle how it should..


Remember guy dont be affraid to go nd ask question to experince racer... only way of getting better is learning!

I just did it to avoid it ever actually "saving" when against pipes or a wall, and possibly returning not quite perfectly to center.

It also makes it easier to "walk" the car off a pipe if you need to. I don't recommend it for high speed pipe bangers though. User beware individual results may vary.

hey guys maybe you could help me out here. I am going to the jc national race the 1st weekend of oct I plan def racing b4.1 and t4.1 and have to decide which kit to build i have the sc4x4 and b44.1 sitting here with all the goodys... but main thing is i have to get my tire order in to jason asap.. I have been told barcodes are the jc tire but can you run it down for me.. If i remeber correctly jc said gold compound in the begining when the track has moisture and is wet and then blue or possible green compound as it drys and grooves? or i could be backwards.. and the say tire wear is hardly anything

1. could you explain the difference in the 2 barcodes in handling
2. Do i need traction compounds, if yes what kind, or should bring what kind just in case
3. Inserts for whats you opinions on them standard foam or mold and what company mold.. I did compare a set of JC molded buggy rear to proline buggy rear and the jc was a flater harder profile an the proline almost felt like a 2stage foam insert? wonder what aka is like...
4. Hopefully you guys could share any tips or tricks with me u use while racing at these kinda indoor tracks as im a fish out of water and learning a whole new manufactor/speedo/motors/tires/batts..

I don't quite understand why you are asking questions as a "team driver" on here? You should know these answers already if your at the sponsorship level and you have access to this information by just picking up the phone or a quick email to your sponsors
. If you are sponsored as you say you are, asking newbie questions makes it appear that they made a misjudgement about taking you on the team.

Angelo -- If you have any specific track questions it seems like you should be on their track thread asking these questions or call the track itself to inquire about tires / traction compound.

As far as indoor/outdoor -- its basically the same, indoor will remain more consistent though.

+1

Now lets get back to the spring dilemma.

I'm running the dark orange up front and either black or dark yellow in the rear. If you dye the fronts black they come out looking like the associated brown.

I've dyed the ae springs black for years, they take it well. The kyonsprings are tougher. They need a good hot boil and left in it for a while. My kyo springs are still black.

I was wanting to bring up the debate of WD40 vs endust again.

Dustin Evan's uses ENDUST .

Lucas Oil Slick Mist


As for the polishing springs/removing paint, the best way to do it is with a 4" bench grinder. One end has a wire wheel, the other a polishing wheel. Take the paint off with the wire wheels. Polish with the polishing wheel. I recommend using the Ryobi polishing compound. I think it was white rouge but not 100% sure.

If you want corner speed you should try some astroglide.

Does he also use a possessive apostrophe in his last name?