InitialD

Are we suppose to believe that's an old RR12 engine?

InitialD

In that case, perhaps I'll just drop by and just take the engine.

InitialD

The tip is to lube the edge of the dogbones very sparingly with a Serpent Bearing Oil lube. I think this was mentioned on mytsn before. For me, I use a drop of shock oil and rub it evenly at the tip and the wear is good.

You could change the pins on the dogbones yourself. If you can get the same size pin (3 mm I think), just take a hammer and replace the pins out. Hudy used to make a special tool for this but I guess it's very difficult to find it nowadays.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

I really like my serpent car but I seem to be having an issue with severe tire wear and fuel mileage issues. My car generally has alot of power in it but its not anything more than a roar legal motor. I think I know whats causing it but I'm not quite sure what to do about it. seems the car is so light it suffers severe wheel spin to the point I thought I was having clutch slippage issues in the midrange. The car leaps off the corner then it looks flat until the last 75 feet of the straight away. at this piont I am presuming the fuel mileage issue is due to so much tire spin that the car is going a few extra laps during a five minute qualifier. Last week I ran on the Cincinatti Ohio Track (the one the worlds were held on) the car handled good and was fast but I started with a 63mm tire and 30 minutes later the rims had 2 mm left on them. Thats not good (40 shore tires) I know its somthing in the car because I can go 5:30 with the same engine and pipe in my MTX3. same track plenty of tire left. The serpent wears tires dead even but I thing rear end straight line accel is the trade off. Anyone else noticed this.

Julius can you tell us or find out for us where exactly on the car the polar moment is located. I want to try weighting the chassis (I heard team serpent was experimenting with this but it was to get steering at one time) at that point to see if it improves. The chassis mass may go up but I don't think it'll hurt that much and may improve the acceleration of the car. when I'm getting motored by a heavy HPI car down the straight with the same engine in it it can only be wheel spin. Need to get it planted on the ground.

Anyone have any Ideas
Please don't tell me to back the power down cause that ain't the answer I'm looking for.

Thanks.

Pyramid

Do you have faster per lap times compared to your MTX3? If slower then you should start looking for answer.

InitialD

Motorman, something to look into. I notice you mentioned that you use very high rear roll centers. I use them too and I noticed higher tire wear. From the setup book, I believe it mentions that lower rear roll center reduces tire wear. Perhaps it would be good if you list the setup of your 710...

Either that or use bigger pinions on 1st gear to reduce wheelspin when jumping from 1st to 2nd gear?

markp27

Check Driveshaft Lubing (Rob Kuijper) in the FAQ.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Pyramid
the lap times are actually faster because the car works so much better in the infield. Its been in an A main every time I've run it (just squeeking in though) but there is a whole lot left in the car. I know it. I think if it had more fixed weight on the polar moment of the chassis the car would acelerate harder than it does now without much of an negative effect on handling. Rotating weight is the enemy and serpent has that well in hand. the actual weight of the car isn't that crucial within reason, the key is going to be to plant the power in the most violent way while limiting wheelspin and I think a disk of heavy metal planted at the polar moment will do the trick. I have some stuff that just a small 1/4 by 3/4 inch disk weighs several ounces. I may add several thin ones 1/16th under the battery and try it. maybe up around 1775 to 1790 grams may be much better.

D
tried gearing up car slows down. becomes overgeared and torque multiplication falls off to bad. Turn the corner and the TC3's go bye bye.

markp27

I suppose you've already check things like brakes binding and free running drive train, wheels binding on the steering blocks, etc.

Could you post your setup?

Cheers, Mark.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

all that stuff is good mark but I'll post a setup tomorrow as its late tonight. It really became an issue when I got the clutch really hooking up well. were running temps in the 260 t0 270 range on 30% fuel with adequate head clerance so fuel mileage should not be an issue. and I see it with multiple engines. I have verified the clutch is totally hooked up all the way.

GoldFinger

Yah.. that is clutch adjusment issue. Clutch is slipping on full torque too !!
The sypmtom was the car tends to flat-out near end of straightline, just like an overheated engine?
I guess after using modded flyweight and yellow shoe my car getting better. But I already cooks 1xMAX-P5 and 1xRRL3.

Something to consider, this 710 is using lowest IR 1.875
So watch out that your powerfull engine will peaks at faster point than at others car. Try tallest ratio 55/23 see what happen

Just my 2 rupiah.

markp27

You're engine is too powerful V8?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

actually ist really not a big deal the motor is not special like you would think. its basically a standard ns12s3a1. I've run a total stocker to to eliminate that part of the equation with identical results. I'll put the powerfull stuff in after I figure how to stop blazing the tires off it.

markp27

What's your clutch setup like? Could it be that the clutch is coming in with a BANG and therefore delivering too much power in one go to the tyres? Do you have the yellow clutch shoe?

daniz24

Suruth is not coming?

I'm preparing one for you, the older JP FX T-03 non ceramic but already broken in from the factory. If you want, you can use it and just returned to me after the Jakarta Open meeting And no, it's not for sale