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REEDY .21 Nitro Engine

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Old 07-27-2011 | 05:58 PM
  #1231  
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Originally Posted by jmollila
Unfortunately it appears my issues were due to being <--censored--> when I bought my engine off ebay. Yes, I learned that was mistake #1. There is practically no compression left in thing after only about a half gallon of fuel.

Anyway, time to move forward. I was looking at doing a rebuild. How much life will this give back to the engine? Just trying to figure out if its worth the $75-100 or if I should just scrap the engine and buy a new one.
To be honest, a "complete" rebuild the way it SHOULD be done will run almost as much as a new engine, so a new one is what I would recommend, then just keep the carb and case (if you say the bearings are new) to have as spares for any needs down the road.
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Old 07-28-2011 | 07:29 PM
  #1232  
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Well I found someone local that is highly recommended in the racing community. He is going to inspect the whole engine and give me his recommendation on what to do with it.
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Old 08-03-2011 | 11:39 AM
  #1233  
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Has anybody run the reedy 121vr engine on a truggy? How is it? I saw a good deal on this engine and thought I might give it a try. What pipe should I run it with?
Thanks
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Old 08-03-2011 | 12:28 PM
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I run it in my RC8T with a 2039 tuned pipe... I love it Good top speed and good torque.
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Old 08-03-2011 | 06:38 PM
  #1235  
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Originally Posted by Losimoe
Has anybody run the reedy 121vr engine on a truggy? How is it? I saw a good deal on this engine and thought I might give it a try. What pipe should I run it with?
Thanks
If you like lots of power run the 2035.
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Old 08-27-2011 | 04:40 PM
  #1236  
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is it ok to run byrons 20% nitro with 16% oil in the vr version engine. because that is what i got today. i have not started or broken it in yet. just wanted to ask before i started it for the first time with this fuel. thanks chris
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Old 08-27-2011 | 05:36 PM
  #1237  
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Yes it is safe
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Old 08-28-2011 | 12:14 AM
  #1238  
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thanks. do you know what the extra head shim is for?
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Old 08-28-2011 | 08:26 AM
  #1239  
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This is to eliminate possible predetonation with 30% nitro fuel.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 09:10 AM
  #1240  
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If any body is interested in the 121vr-st engines let me know. I have two NIB that I would like to part with, for the right price of coarse.
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Old 08-28-2011 | 02:33 PM
  #1241  
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so the stock head shims are what i should use for 20% nitro.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 11:28 AM
  #1242  
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Originally Posted by christmaxx
so the stock head shims are what i should use for 20% nitro.
For 30%, I break in the engine with the two stock shimms (.55 total) and the RT3 plug it comes with. After break in, I swap those shims for the single .40 that you get in the box with a slightly coooler RT4 plug.

For 20%, you can break it in as it comes and then switch to the .40 shim, but likely stick to the RT3 / P3 plugs since you're running less nitro content.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 10:53 PM
  #1243  
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ok the engine is sticking at top dead center when im trying to break it in. i have heard of using a heat gun to loosen it up. but where do i point the heat at on the engine and will it melt the platic parts near the engine.? and if not how long should i heat the engine up for? thanks
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Old 08-30-2011 | 05:19 AM
  #1244  
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Originally Posted by christmaxx
ok the engine is sticking at top dead center when im trying to break it in. i have heard of using a heat gun to loosen it up. but where do i point the heat at on the engine and will it melt the platic parts near the engine.? and if not how long should i heat the engine up for? thanks
Just hold it close above the cooling head. Heat it up to about 200 degrees. Shouldn't hurt the plastic near. Just keep it on the cooling head and you'll be fine.
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Old 08-30-2011 | 11:37 PM
  #1245  
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thanks i will try doing that. first .21 engine. so used to traxxas 3.3 this is new to me.
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