The bell cranks material was switched to plastic for its flexibility....

Glue the saver and you will be good to go...

Yep, they do indeed sound horrible dry. My B4.1 is dry, the SC10 isnt, and is considerably quieter. Next time I'm in there, I'm gonna stick some shock oil in it.

No don't any kind of lube on the gears they are self lube , if it sounds dry check your shims. I ran a full year on my duffs in my b44 and never striped one ran a 6.5 also, trust me no need for any lube or shock oil that's for shocks



Ty

All mine are glued, including my SC10 with no issue, which means I don't hit pipes enough to break stuff The reason I want, and use the carbon parts is the wear factor. Steering parts aren't a breaking factor for me so replacing them less often would be nice. They don't offer a performance gain being softer like the rest of the plastics do..IMO

The whole cars plastic was switch

okay... dumb question but I gotta ask -


What is the proper way to rebuild the shocks for my new b4.1

give me a link or just tell me... how do I set them up with rebound or no rebound... how high do I fill them up

(im using 30wt. front and 25 wt. rear - indoor clay track)

bleeder screw... ?!?! Please help


the other cars on the track look so much smoother than mine



thank you in advance for any reply

We know, that's the part that sucks, we don't have any options anymore. Once the old stock is gone that's it..AE drivers simply pulled a few pairs of carbon parts out of the stock bins at AE and they'll have enough to last them the life of the design..

AE, I know the companies bottom line is a factor but out of the box a the quality of a new 4.1 is SLIGHTLY less than that of a K car, I can deal with that as it's still a WC winning product but after 2 months those same 2 cars just don't compare..

8 m body shell


Pro-Line Dog Fighter fits perfect.....


Highlighted where the other bodies don't fit....

The only part that that can justify a switch ?

is to graphite ft arms




The rest of the 4.1 parts fit is way better than ever , no flash, ect ....


I don't get how you can say the
parts are not near as good as before ...

is trcr track using slicks again ?

Rack parts are the only ones that I say are better, simply because a set of rack parts from my well worn T4 are far tighter than my 2 month old FT .1 parts. I know that replacing them more often would cure the issue but why on a part that really isn't "bad"....Same goes for the rest of the .1 parts, I love the way the "new" plastic works, it just doesn't last very long...I'm willing to replace parts that offer a performance gain such as arms but IMO the rack isn't one of these..the tighter the better.

baldies r good if you stay
in the groove , one ft outside.., better hang on ...

Got a question for you guys about adding weight to the B4.1. I got mine used and it has one weight in each rear triangle, one weight on top of each end of the toe block, and two weight stuck together right behind the center of the toe block, I assume they are 1/4oz a piece. Is this for more rear traction?

*Standard team ballast positions*



2oz to 21/2 oz in ft of transmission( more weight makes car steer more in turn) ( pendulum effect )

1/4oz in back left & right side of chassis

1/4 on receiver side to help off set weight of ESC & wire


Some install 1/4oz To 1/2oz on the ft end to help keep the ft end down when racing under high traction conditions..

Thank you. I really like the way the car drives but I have a problem with it pushing like crazy at low speeds. The track yesterday had two high speed
180s that I could hug the pipe on but the low speed one hurt me alot. Maybe just not driving the car right?