Donat

I'm attending a race this weekend. Unfortunately, the weather forecast is not too optimistic - most likely it will rain. The track is definitely not hard packed, rather loose dirt so I hope there won't be any pools.

I'm curious how do you guys prepare your buggys/truggys for muddy conditions.

1. Setup. What changes in comparison to standard setup?
- increase ride height
- IBeam/Bow-Tie type tires
- what about oils and other aspects i didn't mention?
I'm not experienced in terms of setup...

2. Engine tuning. Any differences in comparison to the 'normal' sunny day?

3. Chassis protection. What should i do to prevent any damages due to excessive amount of water/mud inside the car? For example I don't have water resistant servos, reciever. Any tips for that?
I have arm mud guards but I'm afraid it's the only protection at the moment.

Any input will be appreciated.

I've got only one day to prepare my Losi 8T1.0 so be quick!

Thanks,
Donat

808gx7r

watch some of the videos from the 2008 worlds. they used thinner tyres etc
cody king had tape all over his car

RCmayor

iTrader: (9)

I usually just pack my car up and call it a day. :-)

Hows that for preparation?

nitroexpress

No matter what you do, you'll be carrying a load of mud around. Engine cooling fins will clog. In these types of mud races, engines tend to blow from overloading and undercooling.

I'd call it a day and become a spectator.

yzracer758

iTrader: (18)

Run your practice buggy.

-Get a can of Maxima SC1 and coat your buggy in it right before you hit the track.
-Tall Lugs that are spaced far apart
-Toilet paper/Paper towel inside your receiver box to soak up any water/moisture.
-Duct Tape body to chassis if possible
-Dont over drive the track, stay smooth and roll a section of jumps if your not 100% confident your going to come out on your wheels. Corner marshals in the mud will take forever to get you.

RCmayor

iTrader: (9)

But in reality these are the things I have seen done. Some are more important for a long main when mud buildup gets worse and worse.

• Use small pin tires, no big lugs. Our tires don’t spin fast enough to “clean out” like on real trucks.
• I have seen rain tires made with no foam in them so they balloon up and throw the mud off, again small pin tires.
• Duct Tape flaps over the flywheel hole and spur gear hole covered. The flap for the flywheel is made so the sticky side is folded over. When starting the pit guy folds the flap forward and then it naturally flaps back to cover the hole.
• If it is a really long main use a second old body over your main body, at about the 1/2 way point the pit guy will tear off the outer shell. Duct tape the first inner body to the mud guards.
• No wing, mud just builds up on it.
• Maybe richen the top end a couple hours. The engine is gonna be working hard pulling the extra weight around, this will keep it cool.
• Fresh clutch and bearings. You don’t want to go out on a long main with worn out clutch and bearings. This part of the car will be getting extra hot.
• Most servos are water resistant even though they don’t say anything about it. Especially the ones you should be using in a race car.
• Might want to use an air filter made for rain. Usually no foam is exposed on these, it is just a plastic shell with the foam inside.

rider313

iTrader: (94)

I actully find that a sniper or grid iron in super soft works best in wet conditions. They don't load up and over heat the clutch and motor. Yet they still yeild awesome traction.

Set your tune a hour or so rich. The excess mud will really cause you mill to heat up and towards the end of a run will start to lean out.

I liberally spray the whole underside of the car with WD40 and the mud falls right off and repells most of the water.

This OS what I did last time rain came in as a factor.

rider313

iTrader: (94)

Poop double post.

jammin32j

I have also seen people use Pledge on their cars to help the mud not to stick. If you are running Truggy I have seen people put a buggy body on first and then the truggy body to help keep the mud off. Most of all run your mill rich. Another thing you can do to help save your servos is pack grease around the output shaft to help keep water from getting in.

nitroexpress

Try to post some pictures of your adventure.

http://www.liverc.com/photos/albums/..._0590Friday/md

cbonner99

After you get done running, might as well replace ALL of the bearings because they will have drawn moisture and will rust.

Orion_2kTC

iTrader: (11)

During the JConcepts Spring nats in Omaha we had 2 days of raining. Many guys were duct taping the bottoms of their a-arms to block mud. A couple even wrapped and taped the whole arm/driveshaft/shock assembly area in plastic bags. The parts were still free to function. Also WD-40 was being sprayed everywhere else that was exposed.

One of my teammates duct taped an old body onto his electric then taped over each of the vent holes. He also taped the bottom of the chassis just so he didn't have to do any extra cleaning. He did the same for his nitro and both cars came out pristine compared to the rest of the cars.

Donat

Thank you! Wow those are tips for severe conditions! I don't expect such a disaster!
If it's raining THAT hard I'm sure the race will be cancelled.

Unfortunately i don't have any small pin tires but i do have some shitty blocks (half way worn citys ). Will they be ok?

I didn't express clearly. I shouldn't use the word 'muddy'...
I'm not planning to destroy my truggy. I'm only trying to be prepared if it's wet or slightly raining. I'm sure none will be interrested in sailing.

Thanks again for the tips, but honestly I hope I won't have to use them!

rider313

iTrader: (94)

Shitty blocks should do just fine.

Trevor Williams

iTrader: (207)

unless there was something at stake, I would think about not running your car in those conditions.