Tekin Brushless motor rotor question
#1
I have a 1700 kv tekin t8 in my buggy. I went to the track yesterday, and i was left wanting more power. My motor temps were 155 at the end of a full 5000mah pack, so I don't want to raise the pinion with these current temps. My question is about the internals of the motor. I see on tower that there is a buggy rotor, and a truck rotor, because of the lengths i assume. Is the "kv rating" specific to the rotor? Can i change to kv by changing the rotor? Or can I not. There is only 1 "buggy rotor" which leaves me to believe that I cannot.
Is there anything I can do to get more speed out of it, or am I stuck? How much would a fan help the temps? If I put a fan on the motor, could I raise the pinion?
Thank you for reading
Is there anything I can do to get more speed out of it, or am I stuck? How much would a fan help the temps? If I put a fan on the motor, could I raise the pinion?
Thank you for reading
#2
What throttle profile are you running? Most are running TP2 (27% timing advance). Also, if it's slow and still getting hot you may be under geared. I'd take it to the track, run it for 5 minutes and temp it. Re charge the battery and gear it up, run it for 5 minutes again and compare the temp to the old gearing. 5 minutes should be enough to show you which direction you're going without endangering your motor.
Also, is the motor new? Over time the rotor will loose it's power. Temps will climb and performance will drop, This will happen faster the hotter the motor is run.
I run the 1700kv and don't need any more power. I'm about as fast as any nitro down the straights and can have more grunt off the turns/jumps. I come off the track ~150f after 15 minutes.
Also, is the motor new? Over time the rotor will loose it's power. Temps will climb and performance will drop, This will happen faster the hotter the motor is run.
I run the 1700kv and don't need any more power. I'm about as fast as any nitro down the straights and can have more grunt off the turns/jumps. I come off the track ~150f after 15 minutes.
#3
I'm pretty sure it is the stock timing. The buggy comes stock with a 15 tooth pinion, there is a 19 tooth on it now. That's what most are running with the 1900 kv. The motor is almost brand-new, only a few runs. It is a little slower than the nitros. I couldn't make a long double that the nitros could. I am not new to brushless, but I am new to sensored. I forgot about the timing advance actually. Do you think a fan would help, I am ordering some parts today, so I could pick one up.
This was the first track run I have ever had with a buggy, so it might be fine. Feels like it can be faster though...
Thanks for the response
This was the first track run I have ever had with a buggy, so it might be fine. Feels like it can be faster though...
Thanks for the response
#4
The fan won't do anything for the power output. You're within healthy temp on the motor. With a 1700kv, there is not much a nitro buggy can do that you can't except for re-fuel and flame out. You should have more power, everywhere on the track except for maybe a long straight.
You might go through and do a factory reset (defaults) and start over on your speed control. Check your current limiter setting (I start @ 80%), throttle profile (TP1 or 2, but no higher). I know the RC8 has truggy-like gearing so it sounds like you're in the ballpark but could stand to go up another tooth or two.
You might go through and do a factory reset (defaults) and start over on your speed control. Check your current limiter setting (I start @ 80%), throttle profile (TP1 or 2, but no higher). I know the RC8 has truggy-like gearing so it sounds like you're in the ballpark but could stand to go up another tooth or two.
#6
Gearing is one of the biggest factors in 1/8 Electric. Your motor temps are good but it sounds like you're looking for speed. So where are you geared?
Wait to use any timing adjustments until we can make sure you're geared right.
Wait to use any timing adjustments until we can make sure you're geared right.
#7
These are "%" not degrees. Randy could better explain.
#8
155 is cool for a t8, very cool. the fast guys seem to like to be @ or around 170.
approaching 200 is hot for these(i got that # from randy), 170 is the sweet spot, gear up!
most of us seem to run the 1900 in the rc8be geared 19/46, and with that gearing i'm @ 165-170 after 10 minutes.
the 1700 could be geared higher, no problem.
approaching 200 is hot for these(i got that # from randy), 170 is the sweet spot, gear up!
most of us seem to run the 1900 in the rc8be geared 19/46, and with that gearing i'm @ 165-170 after 10 minutes.
the 1700 could be geared higher, no problem.
#9
Think about dialing back the brake strength and current limiter too. If you drop CL to 80% you will not be able to detect a difference in power output unless you run on an extremely high grip surface (and it will still be very fast). I found 100% brake to be far more than usable, I run 40% or so, just enough to slow the car with authority. I'm told that helps motor temps too.




