RC10B4.1 FT/WC
06-21-2011 | 10:34 AM
#3376
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 727
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Instead of all this typing about the springs rubbing, why don't you guys file the ends of the springs flat to at least prevent some of the rubbing. Pretty sure you'd all be done by now if you look at how much time you've spent arguing the fact that they rub the shock body... Just sayin' 
06-21-2011 | 10:43 AM
#3377
Instead of all this typing about the springs rubbing, why don't you guys file the ends of the springs flat to at least prevent some of the rubbing. Pretty sure you'd all be done by now if you look at how much time you've spent arguing the fact that they rub the shock body... Just sayin'
Don't get me wrong...if AE comes out with the proper springs, I'll be thrilled to buy 'em.
06-21-2011 | 10:58 AM
#3378
suggest for the Ft spring
orange,yellow , dr yellow
rear spring
yellow , silver , blue cobalt
start with yellow ft & yellow rear
If you are finding track conditions with higher traction ?
try the rear silver or even the blue cobalt if traction is very high
been using the dk yellow ft & yellow rears most of the time ...
orange,yellow , dr yellow
rear spring
yellow , silver , blue cobalt
start with yellow ft & yellow rear
If you are finding track conditions with higher traction ?
try the rear silver or even the blue cobalt if traction is very high
been using the dk yellow ft & yellow rears most of the time ...
thanks for the info. Just one question, if a guy normally runs a brown/green combo on a low/med grip track with AE springs wouldnt a good starting point be Kyosho orange fronts and black rears? Even more so since they have a more progressive rate... The above recommendation seems a bit stiff in the rear to me but I could see on a on a higher traction track? Not disagreeing with the above post just more of a question of what guys are finding works. thanks
Last edited by ovalracer1m; 06-21-2011 at 01:08 PM.
06-21-2011 | 11:08 AM
#3379
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,485
From: Texas..
I am sure it has been gone over, but I want to know exactly what does what, as to understand why the changes change the car. Anyways.. From kit setup, to get rid of the push that it has, would I need to move to the inner hole on the front shock tower, and lengthen the tie-rods? What would each do?
06-21-2011 | 11:13 AM
#3380
I am sure it has been gone over, but I want to know exactly what does what, as to understand why the changes change the car. Anyways.. From kit setup, to get rid of the push that it has, would I need to move to the inner hole on the front shock tower, and lengthen the tie-rods? What would each do?
should walk you through every component of the car to change setup.
06-21-2011 | 11:27 AM
#3381
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ides-hudy.html
should walk you through every component of the car to change setup.
should walk you through every component of the car to change setup.
06-21-2011 | 03:25 PM
#3387
06-21-2011 | 04:17 PM
#3388
Did you ever pin your dif? Did you do the outdrive bearing mod? I remember "tweaking" the gear plate in order to get the same level of freedom for both sides of the gear box. I also recall when the original RC10 came out and it glided over the track (compared to my Hornet...yes I raced a Hornet).
06-21-2011 | 04:45 PM
#3389
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 339
From: Houston Texas
Did you ever pin your dif? Did you do the outdrive bearing mod? I remember "tweaking" the gear plate in order to get the same level of freedom for both sides of the gear box. I also recall when the original RC10 came out and it glided over the track (compared to my Hornet...yes I raced a Hornet).
06-21-2011 | 04:50 PM
#3390
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 65
From: Des Moines, IA
The Savox 1257 is probably the best choice followed closely by the 1258. No need for the extra torque of the 1258 in a buggy though. Savox direct is selling them for $47 if you have an old servo to send in. They charge the discount during checkout and don't have any identifying information on the return so I'm not sure how they're tracking this. I'm assuming it's just a marketing thing and they really don't care if they get a servo back.
Ordered two of them a week ago or so and had them in a couple of days. Was $100 shipped for both.
Steve
Ordered two of them a week ago or so and had them in a couple of days. Was $100 shipped for both.
Steve
None of the horns fit the servo. Did you get it to work? If so, which horn and which spacers did you use?
None of the horns with the kit seem to even begin to go onto the servo.