Your best bet would be to take a plug to the hardware store or where ever your getting the tap, and lay the threads together until you find the right pitch. Obviously diameter will need to be correct also, so use calipers to check that..

Thanks guys but I ended up getting it fixed today at our shop. The first two threads were all rolled over and messed up and I cleaned those up and now the plug goes right in with no issue.

I recetly replaced the stock bearings with some Boca ceramics. Now my tune has changed. Won't hold an idle as well and tends to flame out from time to time. Haven't had much time to play with it but was just curious if this has happened to anyone else.

FYI...the engine ran perfectly prior to the bearing change. Just wanted to add the ceramics for the hell of it.

Could be a bad bearing. Pull the crank out and press hard against the inner race of the rear bearing with your thumb and rotate, see if you feel anything gritty or notchy. If so the bearing is bad. Also make sure the bearing is seated properly and is properly aligned.

also rule #123

if its not broke dont fix it

so like i have this engine and i replace the orings and when i go to put the bigger ring on the hsn it break. I am very upset i don't want to wait another week for 1 oring can i use one of the red ones or one from a vspec? The red ones look almost same size and i have two of them. the needles was very much tight and very hard to turn went to take a look and oring was torn this is why i replace them.

They even use it when typing....

It should work as a temporary replacement

So like they even use it when typing?

Using the word "like" to begin a sentence. Vintage Valley speak from the late 80s and early 90s.

I just finished the tenth tank on my new B5, everything is good so far. I am using the Werks break in method from page 1, and I have some questions about the Idle gap. With the red carb insert installed should I still have a 1 to 1-1/2 MM idle gap after break in? If I have a little less than 1 MM gap,with a steady idle is that OK?

Thanks

Guys I'm still having an issue on my B5. I bought it used along with a B6(which runs GREAT!) and I can't seem to get a low end bog out of the B5.

I'm running a os p4 plug, losi nitrotane 30% fuel and a 2013 pipe. I have it in a losi 2.0 buggy. At first I thought it was I had too soft of a clutch spring setup in it causing it to bog but I have changed springs today and still can't tune it out. The engine runs excellent once you get to half throttle and above but will act like it's lean bogging down low. It's weird cuz it seems to come and go. I tried a new plug already.

Is it possible it's an air leak or a carb issue? I NEVER have tuning issues and this is starting to bother me.

What are some good baseline needle settings for a fully broken in B5?

Well first thing I ask is how wide is the idle gap.....

This is excactly how my engine is running verbatim. And it's impossible to tune out. It's not the idle gap, fuel, tank etc.

My money is on the carb somehow somewhere but my engine was acting like this before and i replaces orings and carb body but still the same thing. Also replaced the front engine bearing, still the same thing. different plugs etc. Don't know what else i can try. It's almost lost all compression at this point and i just don't care anymore.

After break in you want to have approximately 0.5mm idle gap. If you have a larger air gap you are going to be running the LS needle on the richer end to compensate. The easiest way to do things is to just follow the instructions that I have written and once you get to the point that you are going above 1/2 throttle, set the air gap to 0.5mm and then start adjusting (leaning) your HS needle each tank again (each tank a little faster and lean an hour or two). Just remember that your HS needle affects your overall fuel delivery. So... each tank there will basically be 2 adjustments that you make. Simply as you pull in the pits you will lean the HS 1-2 hours, because of this your idle speed will increase slightly so you richen your LS needle 1-2 hours to bring the idle back down and go run the tank driving a little faster than the last. Next tank repeat etc. etc. until you are broken in and because you are tuning at the same time you now have a perfect race tune on the engine also!

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