that is normal. The carb neck sticks out pretty far on the werks. I am using a m2c clutch and i have to use 3 shims that came with the clutch.

Hi guys,
Its been a while... About a month ago I was running my B5, it has about a gallon on it and has been a great engine but I started having some serious problems... The engine would flame out, get extremely hot and was just way out of whack. I retuned, went to factory settings, did it all and had no luck at all. This came out of the blue, I hadnt used my engine in about 2 or 3 months and when I started it up a month ago this was what I found. Upon further inspection it seems thee is some play on the conrod where it connects to the crankshaft. Im no expert but noticed play and was told it was too much play from other at the track...
Now the big question, what should I do? Why could this have happened? Im not new to nitro and am pretty confident with my tuning, I want to take the whole thing apart and see if anything else seems worn. Anything I should look out for? Im a little bummed to be honest, it was running great and the temps just went crazy the other day.
If I were to need a new engine... another B5 for part interchangeability?

Got my first race on the B5 today and man it was a handful. I was able to finish a strong 2nd in Pro/Int Buggy (we all ran together). The engine is really starting too show its full potential, but not quite there yet. The top is amazing! It screams all the way down the straight. I did have the tune change a little on me throughout the day and wasn't able to finish the 1st qual and DNS the 3 quall. But was still able to qual 2nd for the main
I am reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally impressed with Ron and the guys at Werks!

Eddy

Replace both header gaskets/seals. If you have a filter in the tank take it off and clean it or get a new one, it might have old oil from the last time you use your buggy/truggy. Replace the fuel lines with fresh ones. Get a fresh plug and re tune, needles to flush and idle gap to .5-.7mm. About the rod? I can assured you is not the reason why the B5 is acting like that. Cheers

Got more fuel through the motor today and its now at the 3 litre mark and engine is all ready screaming down the straight and the power on tap is crazy, im sure its nothing you all have not felt.

Here is some video footage from today, 0.5 idle gap, werks #6 plug, 30% nitro x and 2013 pipe, temps where stable around the 215 mark after a fuel tank run.

http://youtu.be/fAHV1MVeXHI

I went out last night and raced at a local hobby shop's monthly race last night. The pretty much cone off a section of their parking lot for a oval road track. I rolled in one of the turns after being bumped by an opponent. The only damage on my hyper 7 was the tune pipe. Below are the pictures. I've only had this engine, the B5, and 2057 pipe for about 3 weeks in my buggy, and love the engine. I can’t believe that the pipe was damaged this badly by a simple little roll over... I guess I wasted my money on getting this pipe for such an awesome engine!!! Anybody know if Werks has some sort of warranty on the pipe? I picked it up through A Main a few weeks ago...

What people don't understand is that a the weight of an 8 lb buggy going 30 mph is a lot of force, and if you hit it right ion the stinger, then it's going to dent most pipes. These things aren't indestructible...

I agree with all that. Sometimes it's something little you don't notice.

Also, take the engine out of the car, and clean the engine really ggod inside and out. Re-oil it then install the new plug and so on......How much oil did you put on the air filter? Is it saturated too much. Is it clean? Is it dry?

Also, check to see if there is any rust on the rear bearing. I didn't use any after run oil and managed to screw up a crank and bearing. It made my engine run hot due to the extra friction.

Thanks guys will check and get back to you.
Thanks!

Anyone know the exact thread size on the B5 head button? I bought a used B5 and the first couple threads on the button for the plug are messed up. Was gonna just run a tap through them to clean them up.

Thanks

Ron will soon be here to help you out, he always does....

We truly try to make the best and in the case of pipes, strongest product available and as with all of our other products we warranty them against manufacturers defect. Having said that (and no offense intended) at certain times as an owner of a product you have to also step up to the plate and accept some responsibility for your own actions too. If you pick up a pipe especially one like ours that is made of quite thick material and also has a braced stinger and manage to take a hit so hard that it completely deforms the stinger and puts a sizable dent into the side of the pipe to come back and expect us to take care of it under warranty I think is quite frankly ridiculous. If this was typical with our pipes with the amount of engines/pipes running out there you would have 200+ pages of people complaining about them, there are none. Accidents happen, things break but by the looks of the damage to your pipe there was either a little bit more than a slight bump like you think from an opponent probably directly on the stinger or when you rolled you managed to land directly on the tip of your stinger causing the damage. In a nutshell though there was a lot more force involved in this than you are probably thinking! To see what I'm talking about lay your pipe on the ground and go stand on it. You will find that it will not even put a dent in it!

Hello Nesal, engines don't just go from working perfectly before being put away to not working properly after being used again so something is going on. If the engine has been sitting for a month and you are seeing the stuff that you described I'm going to guess that you might have an issue with rust on the rear bearing. Simply put the piston to the top of the stroke, remove the back plate screws, double check again to make sure the piston is at the top of the stroke and then remove the back plate. Once you have this off you can see the rear bearing and inspect it for rust on the balls etc. If you do not see any then the issue is going to be something else and I would probably start off by just removing the needles on the carb and spraying the carb out to make sure that none of the oil from your fuel gummed up the carb. Then put everything back together and see how things go. Regarding play on the con rod, you are always going to have a bit of play. Having said that though with a gallon on the engine I would not even be concerned about this unless the engine has been run really lean or you had ingested dirt in the past which will increase the wear.

Ron

I hate to say this but I honesty have no clue! It's been ages since I cross threaded a head button and when it happens I just replace the button. So I've never actually bothered to check what the thread pitch is on them!